Gates tensioner DOA? (Serious nightmare)

[moizeau]

Chaps, I'm in a bit of a mess here.
Doing the cambelt on the C4. Apart from the fact it's the worse job I've ever done on an engine, I can't get the cambelt tensioner to reach it's required point (f in Marcs write up) prior to bringing it back to it's rest point (g). I've made sure the tensioner fork at the base is located on the casting web. This is a brand new gates kit 'KP15528XS' including the roller and water pump. I've followed the instructions to the letter then took it all back off and refitted followed the instructions to the letter in a my mates Revue Technique, same outcome. It says if you can't get the index past the notch by at least 10 degrees replace the tensioner and / or the belt.
I did notice that the index of the old one when I took it off was way off but the belt and tensioner had done 190000kms.
With the tensioner off when moving the the centre by hand it does feel a little gritty but the wheel turns fine and this shouldn't affect the tensioning because the offset hole that rotates should still do it's job.
Has anyone seen this before?
Could someone check to make sure I've got the correct kit?

2005 C4 Coupé with an RFN engine

Thanks very much indeed in advance

[wheeler]

Have you counted the teeth on both timing belts to see if they are the same?
Was there a locking pin in the new tensioner in the box & did you leave it in place till the belt was routed round all the pulleys?

[RichardW]

Gates catalogue says it's the right kit. Seems very specific about the instructions, with a very small window of acceptability - but I'm trying to think why this would be. It's a fixed tensioner so it won't matter as long as the tension is right. If you set it at the notch does it feel about right on the belt?

[Gibbo2286]

The most common mistake to cause this is mis-routing the belt, double check the route.

[moizeau]

Thank you all very much for the replies. The deed is done. It seems that there is a very narrow window on how untightenend the tensioner bolt is to adjust it. As I it tightened it up for the umpteenth time after trying again I noticed the index moving even though I was holding the cammed wheel with an allen key so I tighten it fully, untightenend it just enough to move the wheel then held the nut in that position whilst adjusting it with the allen key. Put the road wheel back on, in 5th and spun it round. The index finger does move a little (just a little flicker) depending on compression stroke but returns to the home position at the pegging point on the inlet cam.

All back together and it starts.
Save opening a new thread, where are the bleed valves for the coolant? Managed to get 3 litres in at the moment, should have 6 1/2.

Also, Wheeler, I forgot to thank you previously for informing me about the crank not having a keyway, thank you very much, that would have made an awful job even worse had I not known.