2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
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2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
I have a 2010 peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti I paid 400 for it cam chain had jumped smashed valves etc, I stripped it down replaced valves seated them with grinding paste replaced timing chain and guides etc, head gasket and bolts, spark plugs and coil packs, thermostat housing, vanos, cam sensors, got spark, got fuel, got compression, its trying to start but just won't fire up tried 180 out to just to check but was timed with peugeot timing tools any ideas? I need the car back on the road ASAP to get kids to school n college keep getting this code pop up P2088 – Camshaft position actuator, bank 1c/1b – circuit low it has got me baffled and 2 other lads that do mechanics around here too
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Pop the VIN up for me (automasked on post submission) so I can relate the fault directly to the specific engine ECU.
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Marc
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] I think that's it
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
My mechanic mate said to check egr isn't stuck open do you know where it's located on this?
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Here's the fault descriptor for this code which may help you troubleshoot:
Fault Code: | P0288 |
Description of Fault: | Inlet variable timing electrovalve control fault: Short circuit to earth. Short-circuit to earth on the power stage of the inlet camshaft dephaser solenoid valve (For more than 0.5 s). The following conditions have to be met to trigger this fault code: - Engine management ECU in main triggering phase - Battery voltage between 9 and 17.9 V - Engine running for 2s |
Conditions for Fault to clear: | No fault codes found: P2089 - P2088 - P0010 (For at least 1 second). |
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active: |
|
Symptoms: |
|
Suspect Areas: |
|
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Marc
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
How well do you know this mechanic? It's a Petrol, there's no EGR valve....craig lawtonawton wrote: ↑09 Nov 2021, 10:14 My mechanic mate said to check egr isn't stuck open do you know where it's located on this?
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
I know him really well and I know he is a very competent mechanic usually if I ask him about a car problem he gets it right first time every time and to be honest I thought petrol cars don't have egr but when I googled it it says newer petrol and diesel cars use them
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Some may do, but not on the 308 Petrol just for clarification.
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Ye thanks for that mate, back to problem in hand I have replaced vanos, all sensors etc I don't know what else to do I'm chucking money at it left right n centre that I can't afford, I need the car ASAP for taking kids to school.
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
bit of an update I have tried to start it and got p2088 bank 1c code I replaced the vanos front and rear it started up then was dying if I didn't keep slight revs then after a minute it ticked over perfect then it just died and cut out I then ran diagbox again and got lots of errors I cleared them off started it again it ran for about 1 minute then died again diagbox saying cam sensors out of sync I replaced them and still getting the same codes for cam sensors
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Found the problem it was the crankshaft pulley the bolt wasn't tight so it kept throwing the timing out car is back running now
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
Well done, and thanks for the update.
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
It's always the little things! Glad you have it sorted.craig lawtonawton wrote: ↑12 Nov 2021, 20:15 Found the problem it was the crankshaft pulley the bolt wasn't tight so it kept throwing the timing out car is back running now
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Re: 2010 Peugeot 308 1.4 petrol vti not starting
I did a a cam chain replacement on my Citroen THP155 DS5 and one thing that haunts me is whether I properly cleaned behind the oil pump drive chain sprocket that sits next to the outer crankshaft timing chain sprocket. Admittedly, I have done 12,000 km since I did the job and the car seems fine. If there is oil on the end of the crankshaft where it sits against the inner face of the oil pump sprocket then the possibility of slippage arises. There is also some uncertainty about how people restrain the crankshaft when tightening the crankshaft pulley centre hub bolt that has a final angle tightening of 180 degrees- some considerable force is required to achieve this. Haynes suggest not relying upon the crankshaft locking pin that comes with the timing kit but I don't see many flywheel locking tools for sale that are specified as suitable for this operation? I bodged up a tool from my scrap metal box.