Undersealing car

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Romtag
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Undersealing car

Post by Romtag »

I have as some know a really poorly looked after 807 that needs a little.. (a lot!!) Of tlc.

I am aware that the underneath is beginning to look like it could get rusty soonish if I don't protect it.

I came across https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/ which seems to fit the bill and would be ok for me to use as a newbie to getting my hands dirty.

Had anyone used it or has any advice on sealing the underside of the car?

Cheers
Mark
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white exec
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and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by white exec »

Likely to do this important job, but would be good to look out some independent reviews.
Contains naphtha (flammable evaporative solvent) and lanolin, according to the MSDS sheet.

The hand-operated spray bottles/attachments are the weak point with many of these kits, and can give up or cause problems before the job is completed. As an insurance policy, lay in a few spare spray bottles, eg the handy ASL Airflow plant spray bottle, which most garden centres and hardware shops sell.

Important to have the long 'lance' for waxing the insides of sills and cavities.
Good idea to warm up the fluid (place the bottle in a container of hot water) as it sprays much more easily. Do not apply heat directly, as it is flammable.

It's always a slightly messy job, so wear gloves and eye protection, and a mask (no shortage of these at the moment!) to avoid inhaling the vapour and atomised wax. Gets in your hair, too.

Best to lift the car well off the ground - eg 4 ramps - so you have good underside access. Make sure it is VERY SECURELY SUPPORTED before working underneath.

There will be plastic plugs into cavities, box sections and sills, which ought to be removed for spraying into them. Take out the plastic wheel arch liners, too, to get behind them. Wrap brake discs/calipers in clingfilm or foil to keep the stuff off them. Do the same for the exhaust, which should NOT be waxed (fire risk).

It's not a difficult job - I've done it many times with a hand spray now. Bearing in mind that Lano' material is not cheap, you might also get a few quotes for the job being done professionally. I now do the job, when necessary, using a Sealey SG18 waxing gun, which runs off a compressor, and can work with anyone's wax. The gun can be got for around £90 iirc, plus the price of a compressor, if you don't already have access to one. Does make the job much easier.

Like engine oils, tyres, fuel . . . everyone has a favourite waxing brand, so expect more suggestions! :idea1:
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Dormouse »

I totally agree. I used to Waxoyl all of the cars I restored for customers unless they specifically said no. If you are going to do it yourself in a garage or in your driveway buy a very large cheap tarpaulin to put on the ground. The wax guard will run off and you will get overspray. It is nigh on impossible to remove the surplus successfully so if you don't want a shiny, slippy garage floor or a piebald driveway then do the work on the tarpaulin and let the car sit on it for a few days after you have finished. By the way, talking about overspray and air tools/spray guns, don't use air tools again for paint spray jobs or let overspray land on a panel you want to paint. The silicone fish eyes you will get in the paint finish are horrendous.
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Dormouse
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Dormouse »

PS. take your shoes off before walking over SWMBO's carpets or the 807 won't be the only thing living outside!
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Peter.N. »

I have used waxoil for many years but the drawback with it especially in cold weather is that it doesn't get into the seams where the rust usually starts because it tends to set first, in really hot weather its OK, but other wise I mix some engine oil with it which will creep into the seams, or spray it with oil first and then waxoil it.

I find the best way to protect sills is to take out a screw or two in the cover plate and squirt oil in to them until it starts to run out underneath, as the inside is not exposed to the weather it will stay there.

I must admit I haven't done anything to my C5's yet as they don't seem very prone to rust but its a good idea to look under the bonnet and squirt some oil on anything that looks rusty, that way when you need to take anything apart you are far more likely to be able to get it undone! I am just in the process of fitting my second front spring, some nuts and bolts were difficult to remove so on reassembly I give them a good coat of waxoil and some more when they are done up, this will stop corrosion so they will come off easily next time.

I have been using waxoil on my amateur radio antenna fittings for many years and have never had a problem getting them apart after a considerable time.

If you have a compressor you will find that a Shutz gun and an empty container is very good for depositing large quantities of oil in box sections and waxoil on the surface.

Oil is without doubt the best rust proofer- if you can get it to stay there.

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and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S
x 1752

Re: Undersealing car

Post by white exec »

Good advice.
A good gew Citroens have a rubber bung/grommet in the rear end of the sill section (ie front of rear wheel arch), which gives inside access to the complete length of the sill. Some sills are double-compartment (ie with an interior vertical divider/stiffener), so you might have to do each half separately.
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Dormouse »

Burst oil, as I call it, is an old time honoured rustproofer. You will definitely need a tarpaulin under your car if you use it. It will run EVERYWHERE.
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white exec
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Location: Sayalonga, Malaga, Spain
My Cars: 1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive hatch RHD
1992 BX19D Millesime hatch LHD
previously 1989 BX19RD, 1998 ZX 1.9D auto, 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto
and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S
x 1752

Re: Undersealing car

Post by white exec »

Is that the green stuff that can occasionally erupt, and rustproof a small area of your hydraulic Citroen, without any prior authorisation?? :sorry:
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Dormouse »

The green stuff is more expensive than the black stuff and usually involves way more pain in the wallet.
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

Fifth post down should have you laughing;

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... p?p=455489
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by myglaren »

Hell Razor5543 wrote: 08 Jun 2021, 22:39 Fifth post down should have you laughing;

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... p?p=455489
Looked all over for that James. Did think that it was on autoshite though. Good find and hilarious.
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

myglaren wrote: 08 Jun 2021, 22:43
Hell Razor5543 wrote: 08 Jun 2021, 22:39 Fifth post down should have you laughing;

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... p?p=455489
Looked all over for that James. Did think that it was on autoshite though. Good find and hilarious.
Not if you were dat puddy tat!
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by myglaren »

True enough.
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Peter.N. »

That sounds a fairly typical day for me. :wink:

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Romtag
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Re: Undersealing car

Post by Romtag »

Ok, I don't have access to any ramps or such like other than two standard car ramps from my 308.

To be honest I'm wondering now if I should get it quoted for a garage to do rather than myself. Especially if it's as sticky, messy as you all make out as SWMBO is a real clean freak.

I could see myself in A and E with an 807 inserted up my rectum.

Ps the post with the horror story was brilliant and really put me off doing it myself 😂
Mark
Owner of a 2013 308 SW
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