can you grind the inlet cam with variable lift on the EP6

[gwest]

The car is a 2007 Peugeot 207CC VTi petrol automatic engine EP6/5FW. In addition to variable valve timing on both camshafts it has variable valve lift on the intake cam. It suffered a descended valve seat on no. 1 exhaust valve (gearbox end), which my engine reconditioner is having a look at. Luckily it didn't fall out completely, although it still bent the valve. It was also apparent that the cams on the inlet camshaft were badly corroded- it had been sitting quite some time before I bought it. I tried buying a 2nd hand inelt camshaft on eBAy from the UK but the journals were scored to the point that it was unusable. So now my recon bloke is sending it off to the mainland to see if the corrosion on my original camshaft can be be ground out. My guess is that they would need to take off at least 0.5mm to do any good. I don't really understand the quite complex variable valve lift mechanism with two intermediate levers and the eccentric adjustment shaft, but I can imagine that reducing the size of the cams could have an effect on the geometry and subsequently the amount of valve lift? Can anyone enlighten me?

[gwest]

It looks like there is very little information available on this topic, and given that there are two shafts involved in the inlet valve assembly I conclude that it would be unwise to experiment with grinding the cams. That leaves me looking for a used inlet camshaft, given that here in Australia a new shaft costs A$1300. And car wreckers here don't tend to dismantle engines, so getting a used one that is demonstrably in good condition is a problem. As best as I can ascertain the part number on the inlet camshaft is V757707580-01 and on the line below it 574585-IN. Does anyone know if there are other part numbers that I can search for that would also be suitable?

[xantia_v6]

I can't help you much in your search for a camshaft, but I would have thought that building up and grinding the journals of the one you bought would be a safer option than grinding the lobes.

[gwest]

I did enquire locally at a hardening/sharpening place about rebuilding the journals but he did not have tools narrow enough to fit in the small gaps between the journals and cam lobes. And being a professional he would not have been happy just to fix the worst one, so it would have cost at least A$1000! However, I have since located a supplier of parts in the Netherlands who has sold me a new inlet camshaft for E344.
While that aspect of the rebuild seems to be progressing I have just made the mistake of following the Haynes manual while installing a 'front' crankshaft oil seal. Meaning that I lubricated what turned out to be a PTFE seal, and the lip folded back while I was pushing it over the plastic applicator, and it didn't like it. There seems to be more involved in repairing engines than just reading the book! While I wait for new parts to arrive (the local BMW dealer wanted A$75 for a seal) I am reading up about installing PTFE seals dry, not putting them in the original location, rotating the shaft two turns and letting them rest for at least four hours before starting the engine. Mine should get a good rest- until about March 2021 at the present rate of progress!

[AlvinCitroenC5]

An brand new OEM replacement that is made in China is much cheaper and just as reliable. Well, at least much better than the current options that you have. If you are interested, I can try to help get you that camshafts, seals, etc from the suppliers I know.

[gwest]

That is very good of you to offer Alvin- thank you. I did look thoroughly on Aliexpress but never found any suppliers there. Mind you I found their search engine problematic. However I did find a new inlet camshaft from Holland that cost me $595 including shipping and I ordered that in December. I'm sure that one from China would cost much less.