Mk1 C5 Screen issues

[mickthemaverick]

Yes I have them up now thanks. I am reluctant to spend that much at this point because I can live without the screen if I have to, but my general feeling is that "if it is fitted it should work" so I probably will fork out if my vacuuming which I carried out yesterday does not work.

As I am setting off on a round England road trip on Sunday as detailed here I will have to leave it till I get back anyway.

I'm on my 12th Citroen and 3rd C5 and have found my Lexia invaluable. I got it from Jim at Easy Diagnostics who gives a discount to FCF members. If you decide to get one you have to ask our admin team to verify your membership to Jim and he will do the discount. You can get full details from Marc (GiveMeABreak) who can arrange it for you. I find it has worked pretty well on my C5's although sometimes it decides not to talk to one ecu or another. Recently it would not communicate with the injection ECU for 3 sessions on the trot and then it did on the fourth so I would describe it as temperamental!!

You will find that each manufacturer has a seperate section within the FCF and most sections have threads pertaining to each model so the vast majority of cars are catered for. The forum has a pretty active social side with entertainment, joviality and sometimes informative threads in the Off Topic Chat Lounge. Have a browse and join in whatever takes your fancy.

[GiveMeABreak]

We were going to have sub-forums a few years ago for each model and did a lot of the work in readiness, but at the time it was decided against as PSA engines are used across the marques and therefore there could be a lot of duplication with issues applying to more than vehicle.

[aspire_helen]

Marc
I thought I would offer a welcome gift and tried to upload a .docx file, but it would not accept it. Are there any guides or limits to attaching files? Its my guide on how to open an un-openable C5 rear door using only a soldering iron and instrument screwdriver (once the door card is removed).

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi, we don't currently allow files attachments, (apart from images of course) for security reasons.

There is a full post editor option when replying to or creating a new post, that uses PHPBB code to apply basic formatting. Most of our guides (including the ones I post up) are created manually using the editor. Sorry about that but it's a deliberate decision we have made.

[mickthemaverick]

Further to Marc's answer, the method I use is to open the file on my laptop and then take screenshots of each section, pasting them into 'Paint' one at a time, then saving as jpg files and upload those in my post as I want using the atttachment and add files tabs.

[Paul-R]

PDFs are accepted aren't they? if so, convert the DOCX into a PDF.
Or. what about wrapping the DOCX inside a ZIP file?

[myglaren]

No pdfs either.

Closest thing would be a link to a file on Dropbox, Google docs or something similar.

Not a particularly good idea.
Better for someone to PM their email address and send it to them, not many will want or need access to it so best done on an individual basis.

[mickthemaverick]

With the Stroll over I have decided to dig into the Satnav ECU issue and see if I can get it going again. The screen was intermittant during the stroll so I have decided to try and take out the ECU board for visual inspection and maybe repair if I can detect the problem. Just don't know until I get it out but maybe a clogged fan or some dry joints I can repair. If not I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and go for a £150 spare from Europe in the hope that it will work. I presume some coding may be necessary so I hope my Lexia will cope. I thought I could live without it but I need the info about radio stations, the clock, and I'd like the trip computer info back as well as the general settings and column controls, not to mention the CD multiplayer interface as none of that works. Having considered it the only thing I am happy to do without is the satnav ironically!! So if anyone has any tips on accessing and removing the board I'd appreciate all the info I can gather. Plus I'd like a few dry days if the great weather god is reading this!

[aspire_helen]

Your problem inspired me to revisit the same on my C5.
I have had 3 screen driver ECUs. You are right. It is just not possible to live without the MFD. Also bear in mind that is where the warning messages are displayed. None of them showed any signs of malfunction when dismantled. All their cooling fans looked perfect, no dust, and worked when powered directly. Although I note the currently fitted fan does not run always run with the engine running. I cannot check whether the fan should run permanently or is thermostatically controlled. If the latter, perhaps that is what fails.
All of them are plug and play, no coding required. Indeed, I have changed numerous electronics over the years and have never had a Lexia.
Here is a procedure. I do have a pdf with photos and text but this website wont permit it, so I am laboriously typing this from scratch (note website managers).
1. Disconnect battery. You dont have to, but it is always safer to do so.
2. Steering wheel. You do not need to remove, position as normal, straight ahead. But be aware not to damage any of the stalks as you will be working through the wheel.
2. Remove the instrument cluster. This is a single unit. It is held in by 2 hidden clips along the lower edge. The location of the clips is marked by 2 little dimples along the lower edge. To disengage the clips, "drive" a credit card (or similar) under the instrument panel, one under each "dimple". I say drive because you may have to tap them in. These will release the clips, and then pulling out on the credit cards will pull out the lower edge instrument cluster. When free, rotate it to access its rear and disconnect the single multi-pin connector. The cluster is replaced by locating its top edge first, then pushing home the lower edge. Actually, you will find the cluster stays in place without fully locating it, to give very quick access behind it. I have had it like that for 3 years!
3. You will see the metal cased ECU down to the right. You will see the fan vent holes on the top surface. If you want you can try reconnecting the cluster and starting the engine and test the fan, but note my comments above...I dont think it proves anything.
4. You may need to disconnect some of the looms within the dashboard to give you manoeuvring room.
5. The ECU is retained by just one screw, closest left corner. Once the screw is removed, the ECU can be pulled towards you to release it.
6. Disconnect each of the 5 connectors one by one as you gradually manoeuvre the ECU out. You may need to release their looms to provide more cable slack. You will find some the connectors are pigs to release in the confined space. Hence, beware the stalks!
7. The ECU casing is retained by 5 screws. As you split the casing, disconnect the fan from circuit board...it is a very fine connector.
8. LET ME KNOW IF YOU FIND ANYTHING VISIBLY AMISS!
9. Refitting is the reverse, but also very fiddly. I tied string to each of the connectors so I would not lose them in the melee of cables, and assist with the cable routing.
This time, while I had the ECU out, I fixed a heat sink to the main chip (it has none) and fitted a more powerful cooling fan from a computer. They are generally all 12v. I cut an aperture in the casing and mounted the fan on the outside to push air in. It runs full time when the engine is running. I have fitted a 12v voltage regulator so that 14.6v of the alternator will not over-volt the fan. Seems to work OK. Before the summer I have a plan to add further cooling! You will note the air duct to the drivers right vent passes directly over the ECU. In the summer, it would be easy to duct cooling air from the aircon into my new ECU fan.

[mickthemaverick]

Thankyou so much for posting up this info. I have not had a go at it yet so it will be a great help to me. I was considering going in from behind the dash and hence considering removing the seat and underpanel etc. I now see that would have been a complete waste of time so I am very grateful. The next clear day I have is Tuesday so weather permitting I will have a crack at it then and report back my findings. I have 3 brand new PC cooling fans in the drawer and I am intending to fit all three in parallel if I can, one reversed to suck and the others to blow from the other side. It will be a suck it and see job but I'll post up my findings and the results! Thanks again

[GiveMeABreak]

For clarification, a Lexia is needed to configure the display ECU if a donor car does not have the exact same configuration as the host car.

It is used to configure the following in the Display ECU:

• Customer Language
• Date, Volume, Distance & Temperature units.
• Type of control link (filament / infrared)
• Number of Designator buttons
• Type of control

Further:

• Type of connection between display ECU and Steering wheel controls (VAN or wire)
• External temp display option
• Audio system option
• Auto Volume management
• Trip computer option
• Sat Nav option
• Parking Assistance Option
• Radio-telephone option
• CD Changer option
• Overspeed warning function

All of the above require a Lexia to do or suitable compatible diagnostic tool. The actual Head Unit, if replaced, would also need VIN coding using the same.

@aspire_helen:
As for the PDF comments, this is a deliberate choice of the administrators of this Forum not to allow them for security reasons.

[mickthemaverick]

Thanks for that Marc, which means if I am able to find a fault and refit the original with my cooling mods I may get away with no coding! Fingers crossed!!

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes, there's no VIN coding on the screen - only the head unit and the configuration would be retained when it was last removed Mick.

[mickthemaverick]

Well, as predicted I decided to have a go at the screen ECU today. I started with the car facing downhill so I would be falling towards the job and not away from it (my drive is a pain!!) and locked the steering in place at the centre position.

Orange arrows show clip point dimples

I inserted two trim tools and heard both clips release:

Trim tools in place

The cluster came forward easily and I disconnected the multiplug and withdrew it completely:

Aperture behind the cluster with ECU on the right

It is retained with a single screw shown here:

Retaining screw

Then comes the tricky part, work out how and disconnect each of the 5 plugs in turn. At least they are foolproof and cannot be either mixed up or reconnected the wrong way round etc. Finally withdraw the ECU for inspection:

ECU aperture with plugs

ECU out of its home

The ECU is held together with 5 T6 torx screws which I did not have a bit for. Having proved to myself, for the umpteenth time, that a terminating screwdriver will not do it I took the MX3 for a quick spin to Toolstation and for the princely sum of £3.98 + VAT equipped myself with a proper T6 driver. Once back home and with the garage bench prepared I turned on the light and watched my 4 T5 tube light unit flash twice and go out!! I moved into the dining room, where SWMBO was reading the news on her tablet, and laid out newspaper on the table ready to strip the ECU. Having removed the 5 screws and carefully disconnected the cooling fan I was a trifle dissappointed to find the board scrupulessly clean and the cooling fan clear of any dust etc. I applied 12V to the fan and it worked fine. Not good! I then examined the entire surface mount technology board with a powerful lens and discovered just two places where the solder caps looked slightly dubious. I resoldered those and then decided to fit the second cooling fan I had to the case:

part number label for reference

One side of the board

Other side of the board

Additional fan fitted outside to blow air into unit

I fitted the blow fan in such a way that I can duct air from the aircon to it if necessary.

Finally it was time to refit the unit in the car and see if it worked!!!!!!

It didn't!!

So it looks like I'll have to get a new unit and possibly swap the boards so I have the additional cooling from the start which hopefully may give it a longer life!!

Back to the bench!!

[mickthemaverick]

I've just been quoted 330 euros for one from a car with 275000km on the clock!! I don't think so!"!