Clutch biting and diffucult gear shift , lots of vibrations

[belaprops]

Dear all,

Was wondering if anyone could solve my challenge. I almost sold my C5 x7 but one buyer was put off by the vibrations of the engine.
He mentioned this could be the mounting rubbers, which could also give me problems with the gearbox.
My main find with thr gearbox was that, when i change gear from 1 to 2 its very stiff or hard to move. Finding that the engine gets a slight load while idle and in gear.
All that would suggest that the clutch is not getting fully disengaged. The fork is pushed solid against the gearbox so hydraulic problems I can rule out.
I would understand if the clutch is going I would get less biting, so I guess the clutch is still fine.
As the dual mass flywheel keeps vibrations down, would a split rubber on the engine mount be adding to the vibration, they mentioned it's a difficult job to replace these

Has anyone dealt with these problems and mamaged to repair these things themselves . With no job for the rest if the year I'm up for doing this myself or am I stupid to start this

[white exec]

Difficulty moving from 1st to 2nd can also be caused by insufficient oil in the box, or oil of the wrong grade.
Should be 75W-80 GL-4 gear oil (eg Total Transmission 8). Important not to use a heavier oil, and not a GL-5 or 4/5.
The problem is usually worse when the box is cold.

[belaprops]

But that does not explain the biting of the transmission when I fully engage the clutch peddle, if it's biting there would be still torc on the gears hence they don't want to slide out 1 into 2.
I'm wondering if I can lift the engine out to take the gearbox off as I have no post ramp to lift the car up,
Then I can also replace the rubber of the left engine mount . It might be a little more work..I guess, but I have plenty

[white exec]

Have you checked the clutch pedal and mechanism travel and setting, as per the C5 Mechanics' booklets?
Each model covered there.

[belaprops]

Yes, the fork goes right against the casing, can't physically go further

[white exec]

And is pedal height correct (i.e. producing enough travel) ?
You could try setting it (if possible) a couple of cm higher than specified, and see if that makes a difference.

[belaprops]

But the end of this system is fully engaged when pressed , it can't go further on the gearbox , the slot where it moves in is keeping it going further.
Some one said it's the presure plate ... Not sure what parts are after the fork which is controlled by the hydraulic actuator

[Peter.N.]

Can you select the gears OK without the engine running?

Peter

[belaprops]

Yes, I think so, what would be the reason you ask. I know that if I'm in gear when swichting off the engine, the engine does not smoothly stop, bumpy, which suggest it's still engaged some how.

[white exec]

As a check for complete clutch release, or not...

Try engaging 1st gear, foot fully on clutch, car stationary, brakes off, level smooth ground, and operate the starter.
Does car move forward at all?

Another test:
Car parked, handbrake on.
Start engine, depress clutch, and engage 1st . . . . Should be baulky, from what you say.
Pump clutch fully three or four times, and try engaging again. Any easier?

To check whether synchromesh is operating properly:
Try a gear downchange 2-1 with a double declutch (Press clutch, move gear lever to N, let clutch up, rev engine slightly, press clutch, engage 1st).
Any easier than simply going 2-1 with one press of the pedal?

[belaprops]

So I did all the test .
No movement of the car when starting in gear. BUT , when the engine is off , and I'm in gear, clutch fully pressed in it is hard to push the car backwards with one foot on the clutch and one out the door .. when in neutral I can move it with no sweat.
Gears go easy when engine off.
I can go into 1st from 2nd in both options.
But to get out of 1st into 2nd it still is hard to get out of 1st to natural if I don't watch the revs, which then is the same going into 2nd from neutral. Double clutching makes no difference.
So, not being a mechanic, and looking at a basic gearbox and clutch setup , the pressure plate makes the clutch disengage, so could this be the corporate, or the flywheel maybe..
Is the clutch not pushed far enough to disengage.

As I don't have a two post ramp, can I lift the engine out to take the gearbox off, or are there other ways to do this if you don't have a lift to raise the car

[white exec]

OK, agree that problem looks like insufficient clutch separation (will not fully de-clutch), so putting too much drag on the gears to allow disengagement/engagement. Worth doing those tests to narrow down the fault.

If a conventional clutch, fingers on the clutch cover plate may have got deformed or worn, or the thrust race may be collapsing (which could account for the vibration).

If you can post your VIN, we can post some parts details.
Someone with more knowledge of the C5 can likely advise on gearbox/clutch removal.
The Mechanics' handbooks will have details of the clutch installation for the car.
A forum donation will cover access to both parts and booklets for this year and next.

[belaprops]

Thanks Chris,
I have a friend who is a mechanic but always busy, so I will attempt it myself with his guidance.
I wish I could donate money , but at the moment I'm in s shoe string budget.. other known as state benefit
I found a website CATCAR.info which helps with the part numbers.
Intresting what you said about the thrust race, I need to find out about this aswell,

[white exec]

Post your VIN anyway, so we can make sense of what you find out, and hopefully help along the way.

[belaprops]

VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]