2.0L HDI (RHZ) 2005 Dispatch no crank and cam synchronisation

[JohnDragonMan]

hey everyone

after finally changing the clutch on my van i have it all together and am hit with nothing but cranking, out comes the Delphi laptop and i am getting no cam/crank synchronisation in the live data.

cranking between 500 and 600RPM and +300 bar of fuel pressure

brand new Bosch crank position sensor which gives the same resistance values as the old sensor while both held in free space (no metal near them)
cam belt was changed less than 100 miles ago and worked perfect. flywheel replaced and timing marks lined up perfect with old one (checked again by removing inspection plate between engine and gearbox to old flywheel)
drove van onto ramps, did work now wont start.

cant figure this one out.

attached is a few photos of the live data taken while it was cranking. anyone see anything odd?

thank you!

[wheeler]

Cant remember if on this fly wheel the pickups for the crank sensor are 'teeth' or the little tabs? i have known people to break the tabs off without realising when re fitting the gearbox. If it is 'teeth' was the amount of teeth the same & the missing one in the same position?
One thing that does seem odd is the cranking speed, over 600 rpm seems really fast for a cranking engine, i would have expected 300-400rpm, hopefully not this but if there is no compression in an engine it turns over a lot faster.
Also inlet ait temp 49 degrees C? were you doing this in the Sahara Desert
Easy Start is a great diagnostic tool here, i'd be firing some easy start up the intake, if it runs on that then the timing is probably ok.

[JohnDragonMan]

thanks for getting back to me, the engine runs fine on easy start.. but while its running i am getting no response from the throttle so its still not synchronising the cam and crank

makes me wonder if the brand new CPS is faulty. had the same resistance as the old one :/

brand new mass airflow sensor too that with that intake air temp. something else that must be faulty. back to euro car parts with that!

[Hell Razor5543]

Ah, that might explain it. ECP have a deserved nickname; Euro Crap Parts. It is not unheard of for people to buy a new part, get home, open up the box, and find a grubby second hand (and faulty) part. Taking it back does not help, as they then often claim that you are trying to fob off a part YOU replaced as the one in the packaging you are trying to return.

[wheeler]

I stopped using ECP years ago due to the amount of quickly failing parts & stuff faulty straight out the box. Cant say I've ever had a old used part in the box right enough & i would always open the box at the counter anyway to check the parts are correct. Now i would only use them if I was desperate or on a Sunday & even then i would only use a well known brand name like Bosch, Delphi, Valeo etc. Particular ones to avoid are Lion branded Batteries & RTX starters or alternators.
Anyway back on topic. If you are seeing a steady RPM reading on crank then i would say the sensor is probably ok, if the sensor fails you would normally see either no reading at all or an erratic reading jumping up & down. Resistance is not a great way to confirm a dead inductive sensor unless it is totally OC. If you have access to a scope this is the most accurate way to test an inductive crank sensor.
Also what's the chances of the sensor failing after a clutch change & then the new one you get is also faulty? (admittedly the odds increase massively if you use an ECP replacement).
Have any wires been trapped/pinched between the bell housing & block? its easily done. I would maybe take the sensor back out & look in with a mirror or endoscope (they a ridiculously cheap now) & check the pickups on the flywheel.

[JohnDragonMan]

the CPS was Bosch. note i say "was".

so it only turns out that the flywheel lobes are slightly taller on the newer flywheel than the old. so the CPS hits them.
so after pulling the starter motor off and undoing the bottom guard to let all the bits drop out then slowly cleaning all the broken bits of magnet fragments from the flywheel lobes then packing the old sensor out with washers.

it is back running again.

all i can say is wow. now to clear all the EML codes its generated.

yes i have a scope (a few actually). i will carry a spare CPS with me but i may have a bit of a play and see what it looks like on the scope, though i can guess. just a bit of fun. the old sensor would work again (only for fun) if i stick another button magnet on the end of it i think as thats how they work on this.

[Hell Razor5543]

Ouch! Well done on finding the problem, and I hope your solution works well.

[wheeler]

Was the flywheel from ECP too by any chance