My C15's finally succumbed to its fuelling issue - it seems

[Gibbo2286]

Your C15 fuel problem could be caused by the valves in the filter head/primer failing or even with just rust or other debris holding one of them off its seat, there are plenty of these new on Ebay for a few pounds if it turns out to be that.
Here's an example, there are a few different variations depending on age and model.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Diesel ... 700230158

[van ordinaire]

Must admit I did wonder if the problem was the primer & I suppose you'd never know 'til you came to need it.

I think we can discount rust/debris as it's a plastic tank, which I cleaned only a couple of years ago - & all I found in it was the filter off the bottom of the fuel pick-up! I suppose anything with moving parts can fail, even something as rarely used as a primer.

Not sure we agree about "a few pounds" but, I suppose if it's only going to cost, say, £20 - + 10 times that to have fitted (I wouldn't even trust myself to buy the right part) - I suppose I shouldn't be too upset IF that actually is the problem. Looks like, realistically, should be back on the road around Easter, so will look out for another one as a stopgap - & try not to get too attached to that.

Might see how much it'll cost to get it to my not very local specialist, that at least should eliminate the hit & miss, try this, try that approach.

[van ordinaire]

& so we stagger from bad to worse. Finally got a mobile mechanic to come & have a look; this was his report:-
"Confirmed complaint of non start. Found p0380 current code, glow device short circuit (set of glow plugs required) Confirmed fuel supply to the high pressure pump and priming pump was adequate - ok Carried out relative compression test using oscilloscope and found two cylinders are low on compression - one low other pretty much nothing Found coolant bottle empty - coupled with low compression findings suspect head gasket failure but further investigation would be required to confirm this."

Doesn't make happy reading, BUT there are lots of bits I don't really understand -
if the fuel supply is OK, why does the primer offer absolutely no resistance?
the GP short might explain the earlier starting difficulties, although it's not been a problem since I changed the relay - & why would all 4 GP's fail during a long run?
HG/low comp. would explain the "missing" before it finally expired, but neither the low coolant nor engine hot lights came on AND it definitely wasn't overheated when I 1st opened the bonnet.
As I said, several things I can't really grasp, seems like I'm looking at HG (definitely not a D-I-Y job on this engine, as far as I'm concerned) or another engine in any event - but any comments/suggestions might alleviate (or, at least, take my mind off) the pain.

[Gibbo2286]

I suppose you have checked that it's not the timing belt bust, that would explain the compression readings, if the belt fails on these it usually breaks the camshaft into three pieces and buckles the valve heads.

[van ordinaire]

Funny that post had disappeared soon after I'd submitted it - fortunately, it transpires, I really wasn't in the mood to do it all again.

However, in answer to your question, no, why would I? It's relatively new, I wouldn't make that connection, it was all too late last night &, surely, the result would've been far more dramatic - & noisy?

Just before I found the report from the mechanic I'd e-mailed Medway Citroen (who've had honourable mentions in these very pages) to try & arrange for them to take it in, so was awaiting a response to ask about doing the HG (assuming they were satisfied that was the problem) but, of course, nothing! Seems like garages (of which I have very little experience) are like builders, i.e. they have absolutely no interest in any job you might have for them - usually pleading they're too busy.

Too bad I believed all the hype about C15's being easy to work on (& cheap to insure - oh so wrong on both counts!) - although I suppose it depends on what you compare it with, but I'm just not used to being unable to do jobs on it I've always done before (like HG's - except the 1st XJ40, although I did help). Yes, I am getting morose! That's because I'm quite attached to the poor old thing (although my newest vehicle) & I like driving it (it's fun, in a sort of 2CV sort of way) so don't like it just sitting outside the house because I can't fix it & can't find anybody that can/will.

[Gibbo2286]

I've had timing belts break on two occasions whilst driving myself, a BX and a C5 HDI, neither made any dramatic noises they just stopped, the BX was as I said in my earlier post, broken camshaft and bent valves so a head off and second hand camshaft and valves to fix it, the HDI less so, just broken rockers and up and running again in a couple of hours.

I only suggested you check the belt because of your low/no compression diagnosis by your mechanic, these engines will run for 300k miles without piston or valve damage if properly maintained so no compression is unusual except for head gasket failure or broken belt.

[white exec]

Quick test for even compression across all cylinders is to crank the engine without allowing it to start, and listen. If comp is low on one or more, you will hear the 'effortless' compression strokes.
Removing plugs (glow- or spark-) one at a time will show up which are still compressing properly.

[van ordinaire]

Well it didn't just stop, not 'til it was ticking over at some lights - & then in a manner entirely consistent with running out of fuel which I discounted at the time BUT, on reflection, I don't actually know how much was in the tank when I put 27ls in 210 miles earlier - & that WOULD explain the empty filter bowl!

As for checking the belt, I've now idea how to do that, short of a physical examination, & I've got no chance of working out how to remove the cover in the dark, as I remember it completely defeated me in the preparation for changing the belt.

In any event, it's a head off job - & I don't even have what is required to replace the GP's. (should've stuck with BMW's - soooooh much easier to work on)

After Christmas I'll try phoning Medway Citroen (assuming they're open) otherwise I can see it going on a long trailer ride.

[Activa TCT]

Primer bulbs also leak, and impossibly hard to detect.
There should be no air on your supply or return lines.
Injectors can leak compression into return as well and cause all sorts of troubles.

[van ordinaire]

It doesn't have a primer bulb, unfortunately - as that would be so much easier to replace but, notwithstanding the fuel pressure getting an OK from the mechanic it's still suspect - simply because, as far as I can work out, it doesn't work.

I don't think there is any air in the fuel lines, certainly none is visible - but, then again, how can I be sure that any length of clear pipe isn't full of air? I mean, absent any bubble or air locks how can I be sure that there's any fuel?

A failing injector might explain the "miss" I detected some minutes before I stopped & it died BUT, there's nothing I can do about that: this engine, at least in this application, defeats me completely; I feel more confident tackling jobs on the 32v, DOHC, transverse V8 in the Eldorado than anything more than filter changes on the C15.

[Activa TCT]

well, even if intermittent - if pump pushes air to injectors, they won't open and result will be the same.
Diesel engines are troubling to fix if you don't know what to look for.
But use a can of start spray and give it a whiff of ether. It should at least stumble on it.
Timing on your fuel pump or camshaft may be off too, which leads to all sorts of troubles.
Fuel filter body may also leak, as may anything else really. Old car + old plastic = troubles.
Only sure way is to buy new pvc pipes and hook them directly to fuel pump and it's return line then put some diesel in a jar and pull it thru with a syringe.
Your injector pump electric solenoid may be bad too, stuck in closed position so - no run. Or the wire broke, in which case it won't fire either - or ignition switch is bad...