2009 C4GP Clutch replacement

[pauljordanie]

How much of a pig is it to change the clutch on 2009 C4 GP - non EGS. Are any special tools required?

[RichardW]

Which engine....

[GiveMeABreak]

1.6 DV6TED4 110 FAP

[RichardW]

It's not a walk in the park... The videos Chefslot posted will give you a good hint (https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 22&t=61940). The only slightly odd ball tool you will need is a 35mm socket for the hub nuts. It may be possible to do it without removing the sub frame, but the guy that did ours a few years ago dropped the sub, as did Chefslot - in which case you may need to get someone with a stick weld to tack the captive (not) nuts to the body! One of the gearbox bolts is in from the engine side and hidden behind the cat/DPF so that needs to be removed. The starter is almost inaccessible on the back of the engine, but I suspect access is improved by removing the OS drive shaft!

[pauljordanie]

Thank you Richard. Ok I'll give this a whirl. Regarding DMF - would I be better to convert to solid flywheel or should I replace for a new DMF? What are the odds on not needing a new DMF when I get this apart?

[RichardW]

You could convert to a solid flywheel, but the price is not far off a decent clutch + DMF. How has the original failed, and how many miles? Guy that did ours said he always replaces the DMF now as he used not to if they looked OK, but quite few came back with juddering / slipping / general unhappiness. Having said that the DMF is quite dear, so if you are prepared to chance it, and accept that you may have to have the box out again to change it if it's not good, then provided there is not too much backlash, and no sloppiness, you could chance it.

[pauljordanie]

I'm half way through this and hit a snag. There is a wiring loom running on top of the gearbox bell housing. There is a bracket which supports the wiring loom and feels (cant see it!) like its attached - through hole- to one of the bolts holding the gearbox. I cant get a socket on this bolt to pull the wiring away. Is this bolt more accessible once the box is lowered? I think I may be able to see and get better access once the box is lowered past the inner wing/chassis.

[RichardW]

If it's at the back of the box there is a bracket at the end of starter that is held on with a 13mm nut that is invisible (but is accessible by feel from underneath) that does something with cable support that might be something to do with it. If it's not then I don't know!

[pauljordanie]

Thats the one thanks. Looking at it, I think I may have room to wriggle the box out without moving the subframe. Am I right or should I drop it?

[RichardW]

The workshop manual implies that it can be done with only removing the subframe extensions that run to the front of the car....

[pauljordanie]

It wasn't such a bad job after all - just time consuming. I got the box out without dropping the subframe - just a little awkward, but there was space. I had to pull off the bottom water hose to the rad just to give me a little more room. This is a straight forward manual gearbox. It took approx 4 hours to get out, 1 hour change flywheel, clutch, release bearing and get the box back in. Approx 4 hours to get everything back together. I would advise if your doing this yourself to replace the clutch release fork and shaft that the release bearing slides on as well as the over bits. My clutch release fork was well worn both on the ball joint and the contact point that pushes the release bearing.
Thanks all the help/advise.