Well I managed to leave the key in the pocket of a pair of jeans which went through a wash cycle and spin in the Zanussi !
Removed the battery and dried out thoroughly, new battery fitted and the key does transmit on 434.9MHz as it should. It will not re-synch to the car using the procedure in the handbook for changing the battery.
Have looked via Lexia but can't find anything useful apart from coding a key to the car using the 4 digit code, which I have somewhere in the paperwork.
I'd say try the handbook re-synch procedure again if it's proven to be trasmitting.
Using the lexia with 4-digit code is for programming the immobiliser trasponder(s) which has nothing to do with the remote unlocking.
If I remember correctly, the way to re-synch the remote locking function is to put the key in the ignition, turn it to the 'M' and then press and hold a button for a few seconds.
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
I thought that the remote function re-pairing (according to the manual) for the S2 was as I posted, and only the introduction of new keys to the car needed the Lexia and security code?
Ted, does the key START the car when used?
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
Hell Razor5543 wrote:I thought that the remote function re-pairing (according to the manual) for the S2 was as I posted, and only the introduction of new keys to the car needed the Lexia and security code?
You may well be right James... To be honest, I've never explored that avenue. Any problems with plips and I've just reached for the Lexia...
As I understand it there are two discrete components within a vehicle key-fob. There is (typically within a small glass capsule) the keyed circuitry that deals with the immobiliser systems (and is in the glass capsule to prevent the possibility of liquid damage, amongst other reasons), and does not need to be large as the inducement circuitry will be within a couple of inches when triggered. There is also a circuit board (with a battery) that is paired to the vehicle to allow access to the central locking (and other functions, such as window control on my C5 Mk1), and this sometimes needs to be re-introduced to the car (such as when the key-fob battery is changed).
According to the manual I still have for a Xantia the way to reinitialise a key-fob is thus;
"The remote control must be reinitialised after changing the batteries. To do this, switch on the ignition and operate the remote control.".
Here is an enlarged image of the immobiliser chip;
Last edited by myglaren on 24 May 2017, 19:14, edited 2 times in total.
Reason:Image tags
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
James,
Yes the car starts normally, it's just the remote functions of the plip that don't work. I have tried the reinitialisation process you describe several times without success.
Jim,
Do you know the format of the access code for the CPH ?
I have the Citroen card detailing the ignition key code, which is 13 characters in alpha numeric form and the radio code.
You should have a separate card with a 4 digit code (under a scratch panel). This is the security code that will (when used at the appropriate point) allow certain functions to be accessed (such as programming new keys to the car). The fact that the car starts means that you should not need to re-introduce the key to the CPH circuits, as it is still 'known' to them.
I would be inclined to either spray a load of proper contact cleaner over the circuit board, and then scrub it carefully with a toothbrush, or (if that does not work) see if you can find a replacement circuit board. If the key-fob is of the flip out key type the capsule is in the head of the key, and not on the circuit board.
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
I don't have a separate card with 4 digit code, only the card which gives the ignition key and radio code. When I bought the car in 2003 this was the only card giving code information.
I'll take another look at the circuit board with a magnifying glass and try brush cleaning it with Servisol.
Last edited by electronmirror on 24 May 2017, 09:12, edited 1 time in total.
You can (with proof of ownership) get the security code from a Citroen dealerships, for around £20. Just don't leave it in the car when you do get it. However, that ignition key card may be what I am talking about. The card will look something like this;
Last edited by myglaren on 24 May 2017, 19:16, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Image tags
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
ex C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
The biggest problem in my experience with SA2 plips is the little switches under the rubber buttons... They are likely to be the first casualties of any water ingress.
They are freely available from electronics spare parts dealers and can be replaced if your soldering skills and eyesight is good...
Basic plip operation can be determined by 'listening' to the plip on 432MHz using a scanning receiver set to a wide bandwidth or spectrum analyser; when either button is pressed you should hear a brief transmission from it...
Jim,
I have in the past resoldered those switches on this plip and confirmed that it transmits on both key functions. It seems to be centred on 434.92MHz and as you've noted is a brief burst of approx 1 sec. I'm just about to have another look at the board and slosh some Servisol at it.
electronmirror wrote: I'm just about to have another look at the board and slosh some Servisol at it.
Excellent Ted Servisol is good stuff!
Excellent to know the exact frequency too.. I just poke them at my spectrum analyser and never noted their exact frequency apart form that it's around about the bottom of the 70cm amateur band!
