DW8 cam belt

[van ordinaire]

Christmas is coming, which gives me the opportunity to do this long overdue job (the poor old thing's been living on borrowed time since I got it in March '15) BUT the more I read, the more confused & - I have to admit - more disheartened I become.

I have 4 relevant Haynes manuals (but they all for the XUD). What I've read here suggests there's no real difference when it comes to this job, except some say there is! Certainly the DW8 job published on this site [albeit for a Pug (206?)] lists a whole bunch of special tools whereas the XUD only seems to need 3 bolts & a pin!
IF one of the bolts really has to be a cap head, can someone let me have one, if only on loan? (I've been looking all year & couldn't find one long enough - & before anyone suggests going on line, buying a single bolt is hardly a practicable proposition).
That reference to a crank pin made from a long bolt & a metre of fencing wire, a metre? FENCING wire? Really??
Any help &/or encouragement would be very welcome.

[chinkostu]

http://peugeot206cc.co.uk/repair-206/20 ... EG10K3.HTM

It's doable without special tools. I used a length of wire rod to lock the flywheel. oddly enough I locked mine from the opposite side! But mine was never 100% right after the belt slip, so it's usually best to go by the book.

I used a few bolts and drillbits to lock off my cam and pump, so specialist tools aren't really needed, and I got the crank pulley off using the engine itself (long bar jammed on floor with the socket on the bolt!)

[Stewart(oily)]

Very similar to XUDs apart from the lack of an auto tensioner, you will need a 3/8 extension or the square bar from a doorknob bent 90 degrees for that, and to estimate belt tension, my weapon for crank locking is a length of M8 bar, artistically bent, though a first timer might want to remove the starter motor.

[CitroJim]

It looks so similar to an XUD I see no great difficulty..

I don't personally bother to lock the crank - I just mark carefully the woodruff key position on the crankcase and use that as a reference. It'll be perfect as long as when you put the new belt on you put the run from crank to pump to cam on first and then the bit around the tensioner and water pump last. In that way, when the tensioner comes into play it's only going to remove any slack between the cam and crank via the water pump side and thus will not move the crank out of position relative to the pump and cam.

I'd not recommend this way of doing things for someone doing their very first one but for an experienced person like yourself, no issues...

Just remember to remove all timing pins and rotate slowly at least five full revolutions of the cam/pump manually and then recheck timing before attempting a start...

Do swap the water pump. You really don't want to be doing the job again any time soon. Old water pumps just love to fail straight after a cambelt change!

[jgra1]

i saw an interesting tip on wheeler dealers recently.. Ed cut the old belt in half (along the belt - presumably while carefully rotating the engine) and fitted the new belt then cut the rest of the old belt away.. kept everything nicely in time.. I think the de-tension was done after the cut

After all the belts I have done I wonder why I have never thought about such a simple way of doing things!

John

[Hell Razor5543]

I saw that trick on Car S.O.S., where Fuzz Townsend was working on a Nissan GTR. He also cut the belt to half width, removed the outer section, slid the new belt on, and then cut the remainder of the old belt off. This would only work on belts without raised edges (to prevent the belt slipping off). I mentioned it on the forum some time back.

[CitroJim]

It's an interesting technique. It might be a way to do the job but the new belt must be re-tensioned afterwards..

But, having said that, the belt is normally tight enough that trying to slide it across the sprockets is going to be very hard and in the case of trying to slide on a new belt the force needed may well damage it... This, to me, would be a big worry.

Remember, the belt is tensioned so that it cannot slide off the sprockets in normal running. It stands to reason sliding it around is going to be bloody hard.

Personally, I'd never try this method and don’t recommend it for the reasons I outlined above.

And if replacing the water pump, which is always recommended in any case, it's not going to be applicable...

And don't even try on a V6. It definitely won't work...

[jgra1]

morning jim.. i think it's slid on after detensioning .. it's just a quick way of keeping everything in line I suspect ?

yes of course most times water pump and tensioner and idler are changed ..good point

[CitroJim]

morning jim.. i think it's slid on after detensioning .. it's just a quick way of keeping everything in line I suspect ?

Yes, good thinking, that would work John as on a lot of engines the tensioner will move far enough out of the way to make the belt fairly loose...

Just be careful about cutting off the last of the old belt that you don't accidentally cut into the new belt just fitted!

Still won't work on a V6 though as even with the tensioner right off the belt is still tight and two of the cam sprockets have shoulders!!!

[spider]

One slight tip although if you are changing the water pump its not too relevant. The belt cover also shares a bolt with the water pump so you can end up with a tiny dribble if you just start taking the belt covers off. Depressure the cooling system first to reduce this.

Although its not happened to me personally, I can see this 'assisting' failure of the water pump gasket. Its the fact that with a bolt awol its not quite 'square' anymore and with any coolant pressure well its not going to help.

The tensioners themselves are reasonably sturdy, I do not think they are to XUD standards though but they are a *lot* better than the 1.4 HDi ones for instance (which should be changed every time , I think even PSA now state that)

[CitroJim]

One slight tip although if you are changing the water pump its not too relevant. The belt cover also shares a bolt with the water pump so you can end up with a tiny dribble if you just start taking the belt covers off. Depressure the cooling system first to reduce this.

Although its not happened to me personally, I can see this 'assisting' failure of the water pump gasket. Its the fact that with a bolt awol its not quite 'square' anymore and with any coolant pressure well its not going to help.

What engine does that apply to Andy? This is not the case on XU/XUD/DW engines...

Good point about the tensioners. No way you can test/assess them for further service unless the belt is right off..

[spider]

One slight tip although if you are changing the water pump its not too relevant. The belt cover also shares a bolt with the water pump so you can end up with a tiny dribble if you just start taking the belt covers off. Depressure the cooling system first to reduce this.

Although its not happened to me personally, I can see this 'assisting' failure of the water pump gasket. Its the fact that with a bolt awol its not quite 'square' anymore and with any coolant pressure well its not going to help.

What engine does that apply to Andy? This is not the case on XU/XUD/DW engines...

Good point about the tensioners. No way you can test/assess them for further service unless the belt is right off..

DW8 Jim. A very curious decision. I think it may be mentioned in the BOL but I don't think its mentioned in the factory 'how to' guides I do not have access to those at this moment to check.

The top cover highest bolt on the rear side (if that makes sense) , there's three holding that on. The bulkhead side bolts (2 of them) its the highest one of the two) , the other single bolt is half holding the middle cover on (covering the injection pump sprocket)

I looked on servicebox at both the pump and the covers but its not really clear to 'combi' a pic to explain this.

The only other way I can describe it really is its the bolt that's sat at about 2'o'clock on the pump.

Unless things have changed.

[CitroJim]

It's not the case on the DW10 (8V HDi) Andy... Must be one of the DW8 oddities!

[spider]

It's not the case on the DW10 (8V HDi) Andy... Must be one of the DW8 oddities!

Yes its just that unit. Not really sure why they did that, not a brilliant decision I think although I guess it reduces costs slightly. This is why on a 306 (ZX might be the same?) there's a 'sidelight' indicator but after about 1995 there is no bulb fitted. Its all there just no bulb. It was slightly useful to have though as you could at least be 'reminded' that you had sidelights on in the daytime...

[chinkostu]

Completely forgot about that bolt too. I depressurised mine and it still dribbled, mind.