Gold Sinker Mk1

[Sloppysod]

Hi aerodynamica, not sure if you have got under there to look yet, and not sure if it is the same engine, but what I thought to be a thermostat/water-pump issue on my 2.0 petrol XM (1991) was actually the flexible hose coming from the rear of water-pump, it had become very soft.
Good luck

[CitroJim]

Graeme, that's excellent work on the Hydractive lamp on the dash! Well done

The watery diesel warning was deleted quite early on... Oddly, Gabriel, my very late 1.9TD, still has the lamp in the instrument cluster but sans bulb. There is no loom and no port on the fuel filter for the sensor...

My first sinker 1.9TD Xantia and both my 405s had the and in both they cried wolf far too often and got disconnected...

Maybe the sensor doesn't like modern diesel in the same way that the oil level indicator does not like modern synthetic oils...

[aerodynamica]

Cheers Jim, I've not wired the lamp in finally, only a test circuit but once I've found a way to pass the connection through the bulkhead I'll be making a permanent mod.

Went out on a random drive today and the water in diesel lamp went out and stayed out. It did light up initially when cold but stayd off after it was heated.

I recall my old N reg 1.9D lit up this lamp after I began running it on veg oil.

[aerodynamica]

My water in fuel light came on sometimes if I was properly hoofing the car. I ended up removing the bulb.


the tilt switch is P/N 6366 37, about £6 from the dealers! I think some people get a traditional mercury switch and jiffy that in instead

Cheers, might even do that as it would no doubt be more reliable

[CitroJim]

My water in fuel light came on sometimes if I was properly hoofing the car. I ended up removing the bulb.


the tilt switch is P/N 6366 37, about £6 from the dealers! I think some people get a traditional mercury switch and jiffy that in instead

Cheers, might even do that as it would no doubt be more reliable

Definitely a better way. The original tilt switch is just a ball bearing in a tube and the slightest corrosion makes it intermittent. A pukka tilt switch will be far better..

[Stickyfinger]

mercury tilt switches are not really designed to be slammed are they..........?

[myglaren]

Had one under the bonnet, along with a festoon light, in the Volvo 265. Thought it an excellent idea but have never got around to replicating it in more recent cars.
Would work in the C5 as there is no need to slam the bonnet.

[aerodynamica]

Ha, it seems that he cleaned up ball bearings switch is working well now. But for how long..

[myglaren]

Replacements are pretty cheap and there are real mercury ones still available.

[aerodynamica]

The Hydractive strangeness from this thread viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56235 has returned... it's staying in soft mode again but the speedometer is working now that there's a new speed sensor and speedo cable. Or at least that's what I thought. It was noticibly dipping down at the back pulling away and changing gear so the pedal sensor is not working. Ok, so I can change out the pedal sensor as I have another one but the reason I mention it is because the problem was kind of a red herring in the initial hydractive fault. Today it was not reacting to the pedal sensor but it certainly was reacting to the steering, and brake pressure sensor so the thing was working just not for the pedal. I think the pedal sensor has a fault - possibly the wiper of the variable resistor is worn out.

With the hydractive strangeness thing a week or so back staying in soft mode because the speed sensor fault was making the ECU think the car was stationary, this actually would have likely gone to hard mode after the pedal sensor inputs but no speed info built up until the ECU said NO.

One success though is that I now have the hydractive warning lamp hooked up! As can be seen flashing in this highly exciting video:



Hopefully viewable though it is set as a 'private' video.

The flashing of the lamp indicates that there is a recorded fault in the ECU so I'll need a Lexia to clear it.

Finding a way to get the wires through the bulkhead was difficult, in the end I went for the accelerator cable rubber bung as the cable removes (kind of) easily and has enough room around it spare to create a little hole for wires to pass through. I wired a couple of other wires through for possible future mods such as LEDs to light with the electrovalves and/ or a possible ECU kill switch that cuts the power from the ignition to switch the suspension to permanent hard mode much like hydractive 1. Have a relay etc ready for this if I think it is a good idea (not fully decided yet as the ECU might need more than simply its power cut to prevent fault codes being recorded).

Anyway, with all else seemingly working this is a minor fault so not be losing sleep on it!

[myglaren]

Video is blocked Graeme. Can you "un-privatise" it?

[aerodynamica]

Ah, right o. Thought if I provided the link it would circumvent the private setting. Changed setting to 'unlisted' but I'm unsure what that means so might need to change it to public. Give it a go anyway

[Mandrake]

Unlisted means it can't be found using searches, and also will not be listed on your video list on your channel, but people can get to it if you provide a direct URL. I can see your video OK.

[CitroJim]

I like the video Graeme... I see now which light it is now too... I must see what that light was used for in later instrument sets...

On the Hydractive fault, your first action needs to be a clear of the faults with a Lexia. I have a strong belief that stored faults such as will have been produced by the speed sensor and so on may have put the Hydractive ECU into a state where it uses default settings in place of the real sensor inputs as a precaution...

I've noted that Activas in particular seem to ride better after having stored faults cleared.

[aerodynamica]

Yes Jim I'd quite like to find the software for pc and connector to use the laptop for lexia reading/clearing faults etc.