I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

[Stickyfinger]

Well that was a crap drive back from Maidenhead.....NO BRAKE lights !...uggg

Had to run home using my fog lamps when braking, very unpleasant.

So ?? chaps....ALL brake lights do not work.....the brake peddle (rubber) switch ?

[Stickyfinger]

well I just checked.....HOW the hell do you get to that ####ing connector !

[CitroJim]

well I just checked.....HOW the hell do you get to that ####ing connector !

You have to be a double-jointed india-rubber man with arms borrowed from Mr. Tickle...

The connector is just beyond the top of the pedal pendant. You will need to remove the lower dash trim bits to fully reach it..

Another upside-down in the footwell job... Very common job on automatics with cruise control and there the connector has been so often attended to so many times it's left in a slightly easier location...

[Stickyfinger]

I have removed the trim, I can see the connector but it is impossible for me to even reach it....

[CitroJim]

I can try on Saturday...

[Stickyfinger]

I was wondering what the best way of testing the system was....before destroying my hands

and if they can be repaired in place ?
You may be shoved into the footwell Jim

[CitroJim]

I will arrive armed with the necessary Alasdair

[Stickyfinger]

UPDATE: I have removed the rubber, and wiggled it, it works but is intermittent, it also seems to have a little sideways movement.....

Are they repairable ?

Could I cut the wires and join in the new one ? (if I cannot get to the connector )

[elma]

Might be worth spraying a bit of contact cleaner. Could be a dirty connection.

[myglaren]

I liked the Hillman Imp solution - a pressure switch in the brake line. Very easily accessible.

About the only thing I did like about the Imps.

[Stickyfinger]

Yep....will try that tomorrow....

also ...I found this

[xantia_v6]

I presume that you opened the switch itself?

On my XM (also a manual with the narrow switch), the problem was that the switch contacts had got dirty, and then heated up, and the heat had melted the plastic stud/pin that presses on the contacts, so that it did not really press on them any more.

I made "temporary" fix (that is better than the original) by cutting off that piece of plastic, and screwing a small wood screw into its place from the inside, so that the head now presses the contacts the correct distance. I ground off the surplus point of the screw with a Dremel before reassembling and replacing the rubber cover.

3 years later it is still working perfectly.

[Stickyfinger]

That does "sound" like it is the problem, the switch does feel "broken"

I will take it apart in the car tomorrow and have a look see......
cheers.

[Stickyfinger]

UPDATE:
All fixed.....dirty contacts, a dead bug of some form and the remains of a dead Fluff Monster.


I think there has been a problem at some point or the previous owner has tried some light oil spray, dry out side, oil damp inside.

Oil makes the CRAP stick !......please do not use oils in an electrical switch !

[CitroJim]

UPDATE:
All fixed.....dirty contacts, a dead bug of some form and the remains of a dead Fluff Monster.

Excellent

Oil makes the CRAP stick !......please do not use oils in an electrical switch !

Yep, which is why I wince when I hear of WD-40 being sprayed all over electrical stuff.. It's a magnet for all the crap going and that crap often is or becomes conductive...

Use only the pukka stuff for cleaning and maintaining electrical stuff..