Gold Sinker Mk1

[aerodynamica]

Ah thanks, I haven't done the clutch clip yet (though I have the new clip) simply because I had to orger the metal fork/clip that holds the cable end. The place I called in to (AEP) had the plastic clip in stock but not the metal bit. Since it's such an awkward job I wanted to renew both parts so I have to wait till the metal bit arrives.
Then I need to investigate what's loose/ rattling on the front axle at low speed and high cambered manouevres such as in the multi storey car park attached to the flat. I suspect it could be the lower ball joint and/ or the P bush of the suspension arms. It isn't the anti roll bar links.

I am also getting a different rattle from the front end. It is a kind of rattle from the front off side that seems not directly related to the suspension but occurs with bumps. Is kind of sounds like a rattle inside the door but further forward e.g nearer the wheel. It could be something in the door just that is seems further forward....

I have another query! Going back to the exterior temperature display - shows like, 14degrees, then 88, then -20 then -90 then it flashes blank lines. I understand the temp sensor is supposed to be found underneath the driver side mirror but it is missing. The mirrors are both brand new and came with the car to be fitted by me. All done weeks ago but the outgoing broken mirrors never did have the sensor either and I think the old ones were in fact also replcements in the past as they were all black and missing the expected body colour panels for the VSX model. I thought the outgoing pair with no sensor and the new pair with no sensor there would be a spare connector in the door for the temp sensor but I didn't see such a thing. Anyone have any knowledge of the temp sensor connector? There is that metal plate behind the door inner panel on each front door that holds the block connector for each mirror: the electric movement and heater element - both LH and RH were the same; 2 connectors each but no third connector on the RH door that might be for a possible temp connection.

It would be nice to have the temperature gauge working so I can confirm how disappointing the summer is

[Hell Razor5543]

Check under BOTH mirrors. On an S2 Xantia it can be on the N/S mirror (it was on both of mine).

[CitroJim]

Temperature display problem Graeme may just be a bad connection on the sensor...

Otherwise it's nothing clever. Just a thermistor. If you can't source a replacement a generic replacement may do. We'll just need to establish the type (PTC or NTC) and it's cahracteristic (i.e. resistance at 20 degrees).

[aerodynamica]

Thanks folks but it's the lack of any connector I could find while the door cards were off. Even if I did find a replcement I wouldn't know where to plug it in.

Ha, maybe the rattling sound is actually the connector swaying around inside the door!

[CitroJim]

The connector should be with all the other connectors feeding the electrical bits of the mirror Graeme.. They all sit on the same bracket...

[aerodynamica]

Ok Jim thanks, It was definately not there - both left and right had 2 connectors each but I didn't think to check for a dislodged third on the drivers side so will do in due course!

[aerodynamica]

Well I have replaced the clutch clip (this is the third time I've done this horrific job) and as the parts place I collected a exterior temp sensor. Door card off again and another look, turns out the sensor was missing after all and the erronious readings werecoming up even with nothing connected. The sensor comes without connectors just cut wire ends. I think it's because the part is shared across many models and Peugeots also. I just tinned on a pair of spade connectors and heat shrink and plugged in once more and lo the temperature appeared and remained for the first time! Joy, it was 16 degrees here as I parked up.

Anyway, that bloomin clutch clip job! Despite doing this three times now and being assured by previous reports that the clip can be replaced without the pedal coming out I STILL can't do it like that! The pedal had to come out and then there's the stupid fact they fitted the pivot bolt from the brake pedal side. Again, I hear this can come out that way but mine simply couldn't. The brake pedal was disconnected from the plunger spring thing, switch connector removed to make more swinging room for the pedal, then the edge of the lip that stops the brake pedal moving even further bent it 90 degrees away to gain a further few mm and yet still there was not enough clearance to pass the bolt head behind the brake pedal, I even used a luggage strap to pull the brake pedal to the max and still not enough clearance. It would have needed a further 3-4 mm to clear it. Obviously tried the pedal the other way - moved fully to the bulkhead (carpet moved to give a further few mm) and same thing - needed another 3-4 mm at least so I don't get how this can come out this way without sawing it! So I sawed through the bolt and after an epic effort everything was out. It took ages to get the pedal back in complete with the wound spring, plastic bush, through tube and the new clip and metal fork but finally it was all back together and the clutch adjusted. I got the new plastic clip off ebay nut it didn't come with the metal fork and given the effort this job takes (me) I wanted to ensure the whole assembly was renewed so that included the metal fork. I had to order this seperately from AEP and this morning picking it up it came in a pack of 5. Not that expensive really but I only wanted 1.

So here's the bits I bought and the pedal removed:


I have a pack of clutch clip metal forks


if anyone wants one let me know! Just the cost of postage

The blue box at the left in the photo is a new ball joint - I ran out of time for that..

[aerodynamica]

Hydractive fault!
I am getting intermittent hard rear suspension - doesn't seem to be related to whether it's stationary or driving. Anyone had this? Could simply be the connection at the electro valve but maybe somethine else. What are the symptoms of the old diode failure problem that the ecrofting kit repairs?

[xantia_v6]

The first thing is to do the "diode modification", either using the e-crofting kit, or solder in your own diodes (search the forum for details.

If it is not that, it could be a sign of a rear electrovalve with internal leakage, or low pressure from the pump or regulator.

[Mandrake]

Hydractive fault!
I am getting intermittent hard rear suspension - doesn't seem to be related to whether it's stationary or driving. Anyone had this? Could simply be the connection at the electro valve but maybe somethine else. What are the symptoms of the old diode failure problem that the ecrofting kit repairs?

As well as the previous suggestions I assume you've given the connector contacts on the electrovalve a good dose of contact cleaner and pushed the plug on and off a few times ?

When it stays hard at the rear the front is still soft ?

[white exec]

...and the large multiway connectors on the suspension ECU.

[aerodynamica]

Thanks all, yes it stays soft at the front and is noticibly hard at the back. I notice it sometimes feels a little jiggly at the rear too on other occasions while not going the full 'hard'. That could just be that the surface was much smoother. I had noticed the rear was in stiff mode while it was idling in the drive as I'd been working on the front end replacing the rubber strut returns.

I'm certain it's not the old Hydravtive low pressure issue because I've had that on my two XMs and fixed it with a regulator re shim. They were never fully hard only a bit jiggly in soft mode as though the firmness regulators were only partly activated. This is a full on hard rear suspension.

Anyway, I have not touched the connector yet as I wanted to hear back from the forum first. And it is not bad as it really only did it on Friday night after 5 day lay up and a bit on Saturday morning. Sunday it was doing the old Citroen 'boat float' as per. I'll clean up the connector and eventually fit the diodes in due course.

[aerodynamica]

Hi all, the rear hydractive fault seems to be behaving for now it just gets occasionally jiggly at the back not the full-on stiff it had gone as reported above. Anyway It's good for now.
I went out for a spin this morning in Old Katy just to give an 'italian tune up' and blast out the cobwebs, the weather was terrible anyway.
So! I hit the M74 south from Glasgow with the simple intension of bombing down the old '74 for a while and return after stopping for an expensive M-way coffee. That is what happened and I admit that I was travelling 'quite fast' at times.... but old katy took it all in her stride not at all feeling over stressed, temp gauges sensible and all that. I admit to 'caning it' and the hydractive suspension really does become very sensitive over certain speeds and seemed very firm with quite noticiable switch back to soft mode. All good fun Citroen joy so after annoying a few other hideous German 4x4s I called it a day and pulled off at Annandale water services at about noon. It was after I returned to old katy that pulling away I heard what sounded like a bit of exhaust blow. I thought I'd overstressed the old dear - probably never been above the indicated 80 before (Gold diesel VSX: old man spec you see) and I thought something around the turbo area had blown out but it drove ok up the slip road and the turbo could still be heard spooling so it wasn't jammed or anything.
It was only once on the M-way that I found there was no power whatsoever and the car struggled to maintain 70 on anything other than level. I wondered if the exact same thing that had happened to the silver hornet (previous 1.9TD I had) had happened here, a turbo pipe to the intercooler had blown off...? That would be relatively welcome considering the alternative diagnosis :- the turbo waste gate was stuck open or some other disaster with the turbo or manifold. It ran anyway so I nursed it home and when I got back I found this

Popped off right enough! The silver Xant had popped off too but at the connection up above the turbo where the rubber hose joins the rigid plastic one that routes down to the intercooler. Here it's popped off lower down at the intercooler. (though technically the same overall stretch of piping)
The mystery is that there was no detectable loss of power, no big 'pop' noise, I simply found the symptoms began after starting up again. On the silver car I was caning it along and lifting off the throttle saw a loud pop and a sudden loss of boost. I wondered if maybe the waste gate had stuck and it didn't dump the surge. But what happened this time?? All the hoses, rubber pipes etc were very warm so a slightly weakened jubilee clip would be at its most likely to lose grip ander those conditions but why no obvious pop off and loss of boost? Surely I woud have experienced it at the latest decelerating down the off ramp to that service stop. I had slowed on the M-way considerably before the off ramp though.
Anyway, all easily refitted with the jubilee tightened right up. But could this be a symptom of a bad turbo wastegate?

[aerodynamica]

Other thought is that the intercooler could be blocked a bit internally (?)

[chinkostu]

Mine had popped off when I bought the car, think it wasn't used to a good caning! Gave it a proper tighten and has been rock solid since, even with extra boost.