Old XM or Older?

[Photeauart]

Hoping for a little seasoned advice. I've found a series 1 XM which hasn't been used since around 2007. All seems tidy, starts, runs, rises etc. Very clean interior/exterior. 2.1 Diesel (2001) Manual box. Showing 123K. Sunroof and is apparently dry inside. Given that it's sat… just a while? What issues should I look out for? I'm viewing it this saturday 12th March and will be able to visually check the underbody condition as well. I do fancy an all singing V6 with leather and the posh bits but the thought of a much simpler/basic vehicle does have it's perceived advantages. Also the slightly more "French Citroenesque" features of the series 1's likewise before they started to dumb down the quirkiness.
So…? Am I heading for a potential minefield with an older XM which I can spruce up or should I seek further for one that has a more stable pedigree? Over to you guys. Thank you in advance.

[CitroJim]

Good find. As it's a Series 1 expect many electrical gremlins unless the earth bonding mods have been done and as a matter of course renew all rubber items (tyres, flexi hoses, belts, including cambelt and so on) brake pads and discs, give it a full service including a coolant change, change the gearbox fluid (I assume it's an auto) and change the LHM..

Then run it in gently extending the distances travelled each time until you are happy it is now reliable..

It may be a very good idea to flush the fuel tank and check the tank pick-up strainer as these can become blocked by horrid slimy stuff that grows in a diesel tank.. It's likely you will need to change the engine end fuel filter a few times in quick succession if there is any appreciable muck in the tank which after all this time there's sure to be..

Watch coolant hoses very carefully. They may be perished and soon to fail too...

Time and use will find all the weak spots so be careful and gentle initially..

I'm sure this is not an exhaustive list and others will have further recommendations..

Keep us posted on how it goes...

[xantia_v6]

All XMs are old enough to have serious rust issues, and most have...
I don't think that owning a late XM is any easier than an early one (I am told that the later ones are a bit more refined).
If you find one with solid sills, and you like it, then buy it, regardless of series or engine.
If you find one that has rust in the sills or rear subframe mounts, then it is your choice whether to put the money and effort into restoring it.

[Peter.N.]

In my opinion the 2.1 manual is the best car of the range, certainly for my needs. I ran the estates for 15 years+ and a quarter of a million miles or more. The 2.1 engine is the smoothest and most economical of the lot and will do over 50 mpg driven gently and pull smoothly from tickover speed.

But as above, its getting difficult to find a reasonably sound one now, my last one went for scrap a couple of years ago, I was going to get it back on the road , it only needed a new windscreen for the MOT but when I tried to get one fitted it was found that the surround had rusted away.

Most of mine were the later ones, in fact I had four that were registered in January '96 all with the registration 'YBL' they were the last with the Bosch pump and manual gearbox and were my favourites, just a little bit more refined than the Mk1.

Lovely cars though, I would still be running them if I could get a good one at a reasonable price.

Peter

[Photeauart]

Thank you for your valuable advice everyone. Sounds as if (quite logically) I have to be very careful over the body work. Mechanicals can in most instances be attended to a little easier if not Too! costly. Can any of you offer any pointers on specific underbody or other areas to poke around in and of course if any of those weak spots might be terminal? If it appears sound I'm getting it trailered to Chevronics for assessment and any works who I hear are both experienced and fair. Again thank you in advance.

[Photeauart]

Thanks Xantia_V6… noted your pointers on sills and rear subframe mounts. Cheers

[Peter.N.]

The jacking points collapse very easily so if you see that has happened it doesn't necessarily indicate advanced rust.

Peter

[citroenxm]

Lots of areas... And DO NOT be fooled by what looks like good under seal.. Poke it well..

Check:
Sills whole length front to back
Flloor areas behind the front jacking points.. Two box sections run away from the jacking points.. PROD THESE FOR SOLIDNESS dont just look.
Under the B pillar area between front and rear doors again inner sill area theres another box runs car length ways.. Prod here too dont just look.. Both sides on the above two..
Cill ends..
All rear end box sections and all around rear subframe mounts.. Visual..
And areas you cant see.. Under the air cleaner.. And behind the front bumpers forward of the front wheels. The side of front bumpers mount to a bracket.. They disintigrate.. Push the bumper side under the front wing.. It should be solid if the bumper and wing move in the mount is dust.. You might even hear it crumble...

S2 cars are no better.. And are getting to the age where they can be just as bad..

[Photeauart]

Brilliant everyone. Viewing tomorrow so now have a list of things to check. Will report back. Cheers, Phil

[Stickyfinger]

Take a BIG magnet as well......rust is not magnetic, so if there is a change of "pull off" force in an area...look deeper

(Often owners do not like their car "poked")

[Photeauart]

A quickie… I've made a list of body/structure to check. Have a magnet too! What will tell me if the earth bonding has been attended to at all? Cheers, Phil

[Deanxm]

The earthing is a non problem, its a big stink about nothing.
Later XM' have bolt on earth terminals on the inner wings, look with the bonnet open, there will be about 8 in total spread across each inner wing.
Very early XM' have spade connectors on the inner wings for the main earths which can give problems if not kept clean, tend to them with a bit of cleaning and some Vasalene if it makes you feel better but for the love of god dont get caught pulling off or poking the car.

Is this a the white E-bay hatch?

D

[Photeauart]

Again thank you all for the guidance so far. Returned from a sunny day out to view the XM and have decided against this one. Plus points were… Very solid and clean underbody. Very tidy interior upholstery, everything including the dish wheel trims present, has the single spoke steering wheel. Engine fired into life without issue once a good battery was tracked down and seemed fine… ticked over ok. Vehicle rose very quickly. Negatives… because it has sat apparently for around 8 years lots of question marks… tyres may be either out of life or perished… passenger and driver door bottoms starting to fall apart, sunroof seized open and unresponsive, boot lock inoperable, front side light lenses broken, one headlight looked dubious/fogged and yellowed, poor or no electric window operation, electric mirror control dead, green led display no show, offside suspension dome looked corroded and what appeared to be oil spray around the engine bay. I balanced the list of possible small issues against the things that either I couldn't see or my lack of experience might miss… combined with the fact that I would have to pay trailering costs on top of any further repairs etc. As a final note… it is eminently salvageable by anyone with perhaps a little more resource or equally the engine and manual box are likely worthy if anyone needs to replace same. If anyone wants the location and fancies the challenge get in touch and I'll point you to it. The price came down from £350 to £100. Still looking. I will post a video that we shot during the viewing as soon as it's edited. Cheers, Phil

[Peter.N.]

Mmm, sounds as though it needs a bit of work.

Peter

[Stickyfinger]

But all solid under ?