S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
I've never seen a 2amp fuse in any of my fuseboxes Simon ... 5amp minimum.
Mike
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
I worked on a chaps car that was showing all sorts of electrical oddities on a few components - turned out it was a mildly corroded shunt 'SH' fuse causing the problem. A bit of brushing with a brass wire brush on the SHUNT fuse cured the problem.
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
This any good?
I stand corrected ... there IS a 2amp fuse rightly there. You live and learn.
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Last edited by superloopy on 03 Feb 2016, 20:31, edited 2 times in total.
Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
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Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
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Sorry ... cant seem to get it oriented, just twist your neck a bit
Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Simon,
The fuse box comes as a single unit, if I remember corretly you pulled the complete unit up or down and it comes out.
Kenny
The fuse box comes as a single unit, if I remember corretly you pulled the complete unit up or down and it comes out.
Kenny
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Thanks guys,
Some progress, but also a major roadblock...
I managed to get the fuse box out - clearly designed by the bureau-de-b'stards at Citroen headquarters, as the cables from the plugs are impossibly short, and it's a good thing I took several photos along the way to remember how to put it back together again...
Before taking the fuse box out I used a crocodile lead between the input side of F17 and the shunt to jerry rig some power to the shunt, as expected the radio and clock burst into life and the engine was able to start. So I now know for certain that the lack of permanent live to the shut is the cause of all the problems. I was able to let the engine run for 10 mins to top the battery up and I also lifted the suspension up to make access easier.
After removing and dismantling the fuse box the unfortunate conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with it - there are no visible dry joints, and a test of 1 amp between the shunt contact and the input terminal on the back side shows no voltage drop problems. Using a wire wound resistor for a load I was able to confirm that the voltage drop is happening across the cable from the maxi fuse before it gets to the inside fuse box. Damn!!!
So I'm now faced with the prospect of either a bodge, or trying to trace a break in the infamous under the radiator cable bundle.... which I can't even seem to find! I had a bit of a look through the top and underneath and I could not see any cables at all, aside from the small cable to the electrovalve.
Also the cable at the inner fuse box end is a thick Brown wire on a 2 pin plug whilst the other end at the maxi-fuse is a thick Red wire! So clearly there is a join part way along.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment, I thought the cable bundle would be obvious to see but I can't find it. I also didn't have the sense of mind to drive the car up onto ramps while I had it jerry-rigged to run - the suspension is right up but that isn't really enough access which means I'll have to put the fuse box back in again and use my crocodile clip again just so that I can run the car for long enough to drive up onto ramps...
Can anyone tell me how you gain access to this infamous cable bundle under the radiator ? Is it done from underneath or do you need to take the grill and the fans out ? Please don't say that the radiator has to come out...
Some progress, but also a major roadblock...
I managed to get the fuse box out - clearly designed by the bureau-de-b'stards at Citroen headquarters, as the cables from the plugs are impossibly short, and it's a good thing I took several photos along the way to remember how to put it back together again...
Before taking the fuse box out I used a crocodile lead between the input side of F17 and the shunt to jerry rig some power to the shunt, as expected the radio and clock burst into life and the engine was able to start. So I now know for certain that the lack of permanent live to the shut is the cause of all the problems. I was able to let the engine run for 10 mins to top the battery up and I also lifted the suspension up to make access easier.
After removing and dismantling the fuse box the unfortunate conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with it - there are no visible dry joints, and a test of 1 amp between the shunt contact and the input terminal on the back side shows no voltage drop problems. Using a wire wound resistor for a load I was able to confirm that the voltage drop is happening across the cable from the maxi fuse before it gets to the inside fuse box. Damn!!!
So I'm now faced with the prospect of either a bodge, or trying to trace a break in the infamous under the radiator cable bundle.... which I can't even seem to find! I had a bit of a look through the top and underneath and I could not see any cables at all, aside from the small cable to the electrovalve.
Also the cable at the inner fuse box end is a thick Brown wire on a 2 pin plug whilst the other end at the maxi-fuse is a thick Red wire! So clearly there is a join part way along.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment, I thought the cable bundle would be obvious to see but I can't find it. I also didn't have the sense of mind to drive the car up onto ramps while I had it jerry-rigged to run - the suspension is right up but that isn't really enough access which means I'll have to put the fuse box back in again and use my crocodile clip again just so that I can run the car for long enough to drive up onto ramps...
Can anyone tell me how you gain access to this infamous cable bundle under the radiator ? Is it done from underneath or do you need to take the grill and the fans out ? Please don't say that the radiator has to come out...
Last edited by Mandrake on 03 Feb 2016, 23:13, edited 1 time in total.
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
OK, I won't.Mandrake wrote:Please don't say that the radiator has to come out...
Mind you, I wouldn't know anyway (so this answer does not help you).
James
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Defo BODGE it till the summer would be my vote. I think it is a bumper off job to work on that cable run.
Alasdair
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
On my S2 Activait's all just there in front of you ..... mind you, it is all wrapped in a brittle conduit and you are lying on your back under the front end looking up but i didn't need to take the front end off. Mine's still just hanging down like a bunch of spaghetti and no doubt has more broken wires now under the straiin. My main problem was trying to identify the wires as there's next to no colour coding or identifier markings on them that my poor eyesight could read. You'd need a very bright light and a magnifying glass i'd think .....
Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
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Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Pleased you've found the source of the problem Simon but yes, it's a big job to get to the loom where the problem is..
The normal method is to bypass it, at least until you have to have the whole front off for more pressing reasons... You can do a neat job of it and a bypass will be fine...
The normal method is to bypass it, at least until you have to have the whole front off for more pressing reasons... You can do a neat job of it and a bypass will be fine...
Jim
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Simon, now you have identified your problem this may well be completely irrelevant but found this on a Peugeot Forum
"hi i had same fault as you same car and 24000 miles i removed the shunt fuse for 15 mins (from the fuse box inside glovebox ) then put shunt fuse back then put accelerator to floor whilst turning on ignition for 5 seconds then keeping pedal to floor start engine it will splutter then release pedal and rev.. you have reset the immobiliser on the ecu.. car should run great.. garages will rip you off as many dont know this reset procedure.. save you hundreds.. shunt fuse is grey in colour take note when removing as it can go back in 2 positions eg.. fuse has 2 pins circuit board has 3 holes .. usually middle and right holes for fuse ..TIP...take a pic on your mobile fone before removing"
Regards Neil
"hi i had same fault as you same car and 24000 miles i removed the shunt fuse for 15 mins (from the fuse box inside glovebox ) then put shunt fuse back then put accelerator to floor whilst turning on ignition for 5 seconds then keeping pedal to floor start engine it will splutter then release pedal and rev.. you have reset the immobiliser on the ecu.. car should run great.. garages will rip you off as many dont know this reset procedure.. save you hundreds.. shunt fuse is grey in colour take note when removing as it can go back in 2 positions eg.. fuse has 2 pins circuit board has 3 holes .. usually middle and right holes for fuse ..TIP...take a pic on your mobile fone before removing"
Regards Neil
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Simon, as to a potential bypass, my prime method would be to try to identify the wire concerned high in the driver's side wing and as near to the interconnect as possible and then run a new wire from there right around to the engine bay near the original source...
Else that, try to get a new wire into the passenger compartment behind the dash but this is tricky. One possible ingress route maybe in the LHD steering column blanking plug in the passenger footwell or to drill and grommet a suitable hole in that region...
Else that, try to get a new wire into the passenger compartment behind the dash but this is tricky. One possible ingress route maybe in the LHD steering column blanking plug in the passenger footwell or to drill and grommet a suitable hole in that region...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
You anticipated the post I was about to write Jim.CitroJim wrote:Simon, as to a potential bypass, my prime method would be to try to identify the wire concerned high in the driver's side wing and as near to the interconnect as possible and then run a new wire from there right around to the engine bay near the original source...
Else that, try to get a new wire into the passenger compartment behind the dash but this is tricky. One possible ingress route maybe in the LHD steering column blanking plug in the passenger footwell or to drill and grommet a suitable hole in that region...
Looking at the diagrams it appears that the wires come through the firewall in the engine bay - are they accessible at that point to splice ? What is the "interconnect" that you refer to ? Is there a plug and socket connector somewhere along the route of this wire ? If so, isn't it possible that a corroded pin on the connector could be the cause of the trouble ?
I'm struggling to visualise exactly where these wires come out of the cabin and into the engine bay or where this interconnect might be...
Edit: Is the interconnect IC01 on the wiring location diagrams ? Is it a connector mounted on the firewall ? On the engine bay side or the cabin side ?
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
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1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
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2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
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1978 CX 2400
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
The Interconnect is a bloody great plug and socket on the firewall on the driver's side just below the scuttle panel.. It is indeed referred to as IC-01 on the diagrams Simon.
It's virtually inaccessible but if you look under the driver's side wing right up in the top and above the mudshield and relay box then you'll see the loom disappear into the interconnect on the firewall..
All wires have their numbers on them and this is why you may be lucky to be able to identify it as it gets near the interconnect..
Other ways in are virtually impossible... One potential but not usable this time as you need a heavy wire is to go parallel with the bonnet release cable but the grommet is tight and even thin wires are hard to get through there...
An awful way is to run a wire from the very top of the wing through the driver's door seal but this is very dangerous for obvious reasons but if push comes to shove and you must use the car it'll get you out of a very temporary hole...
I have diagrams of IC-01 but they won't help you very much...
It's virtually inaccessible but if you look under the driver's side wing right up in the top and above the mudshield and relay box then you'll see the loom disappear into the interconnect on the firewall..
All wires have their numbers on them and this is why you may be lucky to be able to identify it as it gets near the interconnect..
Other ways in are virtually impossible... One potential but not usable this time as you need a heavy wire is to go parallel with the bonnet release cable but the grommet is tight and even thin wires are hard to get through there...
An awful way is to run a wire from the very top of the wing through the driver's door seal but this is very dangerous for obvious reasons but if push comes to shove and you must use the car it'll get you out of a very temporary hole...
I have diagrams of IC-01 but they won't help you very much...
Jim
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Re: S1 Xantia V6 - no start, no central locking
Good luck with trying to identify individual wires Simon. You'll need to unwrap the whole harness unless you get lucky.
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Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner