Xantia HDI oil type and grade

[CitroJim]

That is a heavy document on esters John Very interesting though...

In reading around it seems the only real 'benefit' of esters in motor oils is that it helps make them a bit biodegradable and less toxic to aquatic life. It doesn't seem to do anything (so far as I can see) for the lubricating properties of the oil. It may be biodegradable to a degree but it still doesn't mean we can just tip waste oil down the drain

The best and most easily digested article on oil that goes into a reasonable depth can be found on good old Wikipedia. It seems to give a very good account of what synthetic oils are all about too.

Whilst Castrol Magnatec doubtless a very good oil, you'll be paying a lot for the name and fancy packaging. I'll be firmly sticking by my mantra of using bog-standard non-fancy oil bought in bulk at economical cost and changing it at frequent intervals...

[falling-out-with-my-car]

We use Wilkinson 15w/40 mineral oil £10.99 and change it every 3,000 miles. if you've just got the car change the gear oil as well and before pouring it in add a couple of tubes of molyslip and the gear change will be lovely. .

[CitroJim]

add a couple of tubes of molyslip and the gear change will be lovely. .

NO NO NO NO. You must NEVER use Molyslip in a BE3 gearbox. The BE3 has old-school cone synchro hubs that rely on friction to work. A friction modifier like Molyslip is liable to cause them premature wear...

My goodness haven't the purveyors of snake oil done well to brainwash the public on the benefits of all these wonderful additives. Fact is, and as already discussed, no additives are needed unless you have a specific problem and then, and only then, an additive is worth trying. Otherwise save money and leave them weighing down the shelves in Halfrauds...

The correct and only oil for a BE3 gearbox is Total BV or an equivalent 75W/80 oil specifically formulated for these gearboxes.

[charentejohn]

Interesting post, I did open a thread on gearbox oil here http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =3&t=37999" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just when my tube of Forte Diff additive arrives I am warned not to use additives. Then again I assumed Forte was like Molyslip but possibly not, may be more of an enhancer of oil than friction reducer, we will see.
My gearbox is a BE3 but a bit clunky in my opinion so I will be changing the oil for Total BV (once I can find it here) as that just makes sense. I was planning to add the Forte at the same time but may do it as a 2 stage process just to see what happens, so BV first then unless a marked improvement I will add the Forte and see what happens.
Good old Wikipedia had this on syncromesh http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; so I can see what you mean about slippery stuff causing a problem, but depends what it does I guess. Reduced friction could ease changes or then again could cause the cones to lose traction ? Interesting.

The document from the oil company was a bit deep, keep re-reading it and still struggling. I think the 'esters' are basically present in synthetic or part synthetic oils anyway but Magnatec used them before Synthetic became popular. I am still not clear on this but Esters seem to be the thing that makes oil cling to parts when the engine stops, so a good thing in general. The percentage of these things in oil seem relevant but hard to get a manufacturer to be specific on quantities.

[bill hughes]

Hi all
as a matter of interest I've just rung my Citroen main dealer for information on oil and filter change intervals and they stated every 12,500 miles which is the same as the Haynes book of, as I was going to do it at 6'000 its a bit confusing, any thoughts? also are was going to use Total 7000 10 /40. my car is a 2000 xantia 2.0 hdi 90 hp

[CitroJim]

Bill, an oil change, especially in an older vehicle, is the best and cheapest routine maintenance for the engine you can do.. The more often the better within reason and I'd go for 6,000 miles every time..

The 12,500 miles is a maximum in my book, a threshold never to be crossed.

[RichardW]

The old XUD managed 6k; the Hdi (which is more or less the same engine mechanically) is cleaner running, has a bigger filter, and better oil spec - it will easily do 10k between changes. When was the last time you saw a modern engine that was worn out? You really need to abuse them with modern oils to do that (unless they're a 1.6 HDi in which case you can ruin them just by looking at them )

[lexi]

Every single oil mentioned in this thread will do the job well on an HDI