heating matrix or not that was the question

[KennyW]

Hi All,

last weekend I decided to tackle the heating matrix, having done it before I knew what to expect. .

Job completed and car rebuilt awaiting front windscreen to be replace due to cracking.

I thought i see how bad matrix was it find it was not leaking.

Quick check made with carpets and found both fron and rear passenger side were soaking ( now dried out but where did this water come from.

I've not a clue.

Nothing obvious in the usual places.

Any thoughts?

Kenny

[chinkostu]

Door seals or sunroof drains?

[DickieG]

The plastic scuttle trim wasn't properly attached to the windscreen directly above the heater inlet, if necessary run a line of black electrical insulating tape as a make do, unless someone looks very closely they won't spot it. If that doesn't sort it then check the inner door membranes, if that still doesn't sort it open the doors and pull back the rubber seal to reveal the roof rack mounting holes, make sure they're sealed as they are another source of water ingress. To check whether the water accumulating in the footwells is rainwater or coolant wipe your hand across it and then rub your fingers, coolant will feel greasy.

[KennyW]

Scuttle was not bonded to windscreen hence the reason I think there was water in the footwells.

A botched repair was made to above opening of the heater blower with putty or similar

The rain over night has not entered the car as i covered over the vent. The door seals are fine and the roof rack holes appear okay.

This is a mystery.

Kenny

[Zelandeth]

In my case it was getting in around one of the bootlid hinges because the seam sealer had cracked. It was then running down behind the trim, finally appearing under the rear seat. Took me a while to find!

[CitroJim]

Kenny, you'll need to have all the carpets out now to dry them... There is no short-cuts to this step sadly..

[KennyW]

Fortunately Jim Thursday was perfect so I had them out. Front dried but rear not quite there yet. It never ceases to amaze me how much water the insulation holds.

Have re sealed bootlid a few weeks ago.

Window done.

Now to fill the system with antifreeze and purge the air.

Kenny

[CitroJim]

Excellent Kenny

I heard it was nice up your way whilst it tipped it down here....

[KennyW]

Well,another problem has raised it's ugly face. The plastic bleed screw has decided to part company with the plastic tube on the exit pipe from the matrix

Anybody carried a cunning repair, otherwise it is remove and fit another.

Kenny

[CitroJim]

Ahh, not good Kenny... The plastic is that sort that practically nothing will stick

I've had success (of sorts) by using high-temperature epoxy and building up a collar around the problem area.

Replacement is the best answer but that'll mean a new matrix connector and they're not common now... I'd expect they're NFP but a similar one will do and then use pipe joiners to splice it in..

[KennyW]

Yes Jim the matrix connector is NFP. I'm going to glue in, with epoxy, a straight connector I reckon 5mm i/d should right and take a feed from that to make a longer bleed point. But guess what its raining again.

[Stewart(oily)]

I replaced the outer part of that heater connector on a customers petrol Xantia a few years ago, the plastic had lost all of its strength, ended up picking it to bits with needle nosed pliers, has anyone ever gone in through the bulkhead to swap the matrix ? I have heard that there was a template for cutting your way into the CX heater through the footwell.

[KennyW]

A quick update created a new bleed screw from a tyre valve and glued same to matrix hose.

Currently testing same will give another update later to see if it works and slightly more detailed description of a how to.

Kenny

[CitroJim]

Excellent work, well done Kenny!

What adhesive did you use?

[KennyW]

Sofar it is working,but I'll keep it going to the weekend.

Jim, the glue is JB Weld epoxy glue.

It is apparently even better than areldite metal.