Pump Tick & Hydroactive hard/soft Mode....Partial success

[Stickyfinger]

Pump Tick & Hydroactive hard/soft Mode....Partial success

Hard mode lock and fast Pump Tick rate (every 5-7 secs for 10-15 secs)

1.
Well, with Jim's assistance (well he did it ) I have the suspension mod fitted, pump still ticks fast, stuck in hard mode, valves click after 30 secs (ish)

2.
Changed front Hydroactive sphere with the one on the V6 Donor Hy front .....Soft/Hard Modes switches mode OK now both front and back (nice ) but Pump still ticks fast with no change to rate.

?? change the rear HyActv sphere, and if that has failed how is soft mode OK on the rear ?
?? will that effect tick rate

FYI, code on the removed sphere was
96281798
7-191

[xantia_v6]

The main accumulator sphere is the only one that affects regulator tick rate. You have an internal leakage somwhere. The brake valve and hydroactive valves are suspects. As I suppose is the activa valve. You need to check the return flows to the LHM tank.

[Stickyfinger]

Even if they "Click" ?

OK, will do.

Defeated big time by the rear Hydroactive Sphere anyway, feel like kicking the stupid thing.

[xantia_v6]

Even if they "Click" ?

OK, will do.

Defeated big time by the rear Hydroactive Sphere anyway, feel like kicking the stupid thing.

Yes, they can be quite leaky and still work. If you search the site for electro valve repair you might find more info.

A BIG hammer and chisel can do wonders for a stuck sphere.

[Stickyfinger]

No way am I hitting anything under the back with all the fine pipe work next to the sphere.....I cannot even get a Filter Chain on it.

EDIT
Just broke a pipe and skinned a knuckle, FOR SALE,,,CITROEN Activa.V6....fracking French thing

[elma]

Is this partial unsucces now then?

[Hell Razor5543]

I have used the hammer and chisel method to free off stubborn spheres. First, make sure the hydraulics are de-pressurised (unless you are removing the rear strut spheres). Next, using the hammer and chisel (aimed straight into the sphere), knock a small dent into the sphere, to allow for the next stage to work. Now change the angle of striking (but using the dent you have created), and carefully tap hammer to chisel so the sphere will rotate anti-clockwise (I hope I have the right direction!), and it should, slowly, start to turn.

When you have replaced the spheres try and get into the habit of loosening them off every 6 months or so, so that you shouldn't have this problem in future. They only need to be done up hand tight (they will tighten up further over time, hence my loosening tip).

[Stickyfinger]

Well pissed off with it....one of those days where EVERYTHING is just imposable....nothing fits, nothing comes off without a massive struggle and nothing works correctly....then what you think you are solving turns into something worse, harder to get to and equally annoying.

Now I have to frack around with stuff I have no clue about, no experience with and has bloody electrickry in it !...........rasssssssssssp

And why oh why do people tighten spheres so bloody tight !

[Hell Razor5543]

I have only every tightened the spheres up by hand, but I need a strap wrench to loosen them off every 6 months or so. Somehow they self tighten!

[Stickyfinger]

Struggling with the search...strange collection of unrelated results ??

Anybody got some links to testing Electro-valves ?
Is it possible to test them Off the car ?

[Stickyfinger]

Still looking for a guide on how to diagnose which valve is leaking.
....lots on how to fix them and telling me why/how they are working/not working, lots on pulling spring lengths etc.

...but bugger all on finding which is the problem and how to isolate the one with the problem.

[elma]

Try a multimeter on its terminals. Resistance is meant to be 4.?ohm, I think 4.7. I'm kinda in a similar situation. Reds in hard mode, she buzzes at the solenoids but doesn't click. So far I've worked out that my brain is giving a poor square wave and wiggling the front solenoid changes the pitch of the buzzing.

There's something about measuring lhm flow through return pipes to diagnose electrovalves, now you've asked I can't find it either.

My next technique (I think it's a new one) is going to be to make an extension cable and plug reds solenoids into greens loom (ha fully works on green) then if red goes into soft I'll know the problem lies elsewhere. No sub's for lexia though, can't wait to get one.

[Stickyfinger]

All three valves are working, well clicking loud and the suspension locks to hard (cannot test ohms atm).
I cannot hear any "rushing water" from any of the valves.

Are the S.1 Electrovalves different than the others ?......errrr
I am struggling to find any way of finding which valve is the problem one.

Vin last eight -- 00 4D2 393

Cycle rate of pump...
On: .06 secs
Off: .12 secs
on: .06 secs
Off :.12 secs
On: .06 Secs
Off:.13 secs
repeat

[Stickyfinger]

Started taking all the electro-valves off to clean or replace, front is off, back HA soon (what a pain), tomorrow I will tackle the ram one after finding some pipe seals. I had hoped I would not have to open my "hatch" this soon .ahhh bank holidays, just love them.

[xantia_v6]

To diagnose the internal leakage you need to check the flow in each of the return pipes to the LHM tank, and then if necessary isolate the return from individual components. The electrovales should have no return flow except during change of state.

The Citroen service manual has a diagram showing the purpose of each return line, but I don't remember where to find it on line.