307 hdi bsi enquiry

[avamotor]

Hello FCF,

I have overcome most of my problems regarding airbags/abs etc but now i am faced with a different problem, as long as planet peugeot is plugged in both front window electric motors wind up and down without problem and the drivers door mirror also electrically adjusts too (not electric folding though) but as soon as i'm disconnected from PP2000 the windows resort to not working properly.

The multifunction display doesnt display the outside temperature so all that can be seen is " -- C " and the time but the wires have good continuity but plug into the electric window motor before going through a million circuit tracks so i can only test upto the motor.

When i had Planet Peugeot plugged in i did note that the memory of both motors can be cleared (done that) but it makes no difference to the operation when disconnected, it still plays up winding the window all the way down and only the drivers side winding up in 5mm ish intervals

in 2 of the menus i think it was bsi and ecu learning and configuration, a dialog box popped up saying to put in the code from the technician, Which code would this be? the "pin" number?

Can i get my pin number using planet peugeot as I wasnt given a pin number with the car and i wanted to check the bsi for functionality purposes or am i correct in thinking that if i cant get my pin from PP2000, i am left with desoldering the eeprom of either the ecu or bsi and reading the information and getting it deciphered is the only way to do it?

[m300td]

hi had a very similar problem with a citroen c8 well a few problems they were trying to compete for attension !!
i could not always communicate with the various ecus and then things seemed to work a lot better when plugged in
it drove me round the bend in the end traced it down to a fauly fuse the fuse looked ok except for a small amount of corrosion inside the fuse
read 34 ohms when i tested this was not giving the correct voltage to the door ecus
when measured i was only geeting 7 volts instead of 12 another fault was corrosion in the multi plugs strange but the worst one throughing up faults was in the boot!!
as for the pin number peugeot should be able to give it you i have had citroen give me them on producing the log book
malc

[avamotor]

Thank you for your reply m300td.

I have had a fun weekend cleaning and checking earth points and checking fuses for both continuity and impedance. Now with the exception of a stupid error on my part , I found that 1 pin of the 3 for the plug for the alarm siren was green and crudded up. As i suspected this could be a possible problem in the event i wanted to upgrade to an alarm I cut through all three wires (already got a decent plug and wiring with the intention of soldering them in place) before witnessing a "beautiful spark and light display" and the then realised i hadnt disconnected the battery as i had done on previously occassions

After then disconnecting the battery and saying my prayers, I proceeded to go solder crazy, after changing the fuse, i then set about battery reconnection observing the BSI rules of connection checked all systems, all good.

Electric Windows as before will wind down on drivers door but only move 5mm approx before pause then another 5mm etc. passenger side wont react at all via driver and passenger side door switch so i guess i need another drivers/passenger side/mirror switch to check against my suspected defective unit.

Passenger side window will wind down using passenger side switch but totally refuses to wind up at all neither mirror will work at all.

NOW plug in planet peugeot reset door window memories and the switches seem in opposite according to the menu, pressing up on the drivers side electric window switch suggests that up on the passenger door electric window is selected, and if you press the passenger switch located on the drivers panel, planet peugeot acknowledges this as the drivers side window for up down etc.

After exiting this configuration menu windows almost work properly as soon as you disconnect planet peugeot 2000, it all stops being normal and goes back to awkward!

Reason i havent gone to Peugeot for my confidential key is i suspect its a different BSI, clocks and ECU. I have already found evidence that the BSI has been opened as all the clips are broken as is the clocks which until i applied for the logbook and could see the previous MOT's, i noted the car "lost" 90,000 miles and when i look in the BSI for details about my car it claims that its a 3 door (mine is actually 5 door) which also explains why when either of the 2 rear doors show on the clock display when they are opened despite working perfectly okay with the central locking.

So i am somewhat in a predicament, if i go to Peugeot, they will charge me £20 plus the vat to get a code that wont necessarily work with the BSI fitted in my car and when if i were to go back and even contemplate asking for a refund, i feel that i will be told "well thats the information we what have stored on Peugeots records for your car" and i suspect i wont get any reinbursement.

As I cannot save the above configurations for my peugeot electric front window gremlins (cant find any opetions to store them as yet) and with the clock not displaying the outside temperature and the switches opposed on the drivers side keypad, i have some "spare parts to get hold of" for testing purposes. I have already tried cleaning the circuit board using a fiberglass pen, but i still get the flashing led sequence which so far i cant find any relevant meaning for.

Any thoughts please anyone gratefully recieved

[wheeler]

Is the correct VIN number stored in the 'new' BSI ? If someone has just done a plug & play job with the BSI it may still have the VIN of the original car stored in it, that's how you would get the pin code. Only problem is it could be a bit awkward trying to explain why you need a security code of a car you don't own or have documents for.

[wurlycorner]

Tbh with what you've said about the bsi having been swapped and messed about with (opened up), that it's seeing window switches in the wrong configuration and that that it thinks it's in a 3 door car when you have a 5 door... I would start there and swap it with another bsi from a breaker, that definitely came out of a 5 door car, ideally of exactly the same model.
It just eliminates the most obvious number of variances in one go.

Nb: Swapping the clocks doesn't seem to matter (I've upgraded the clocks in my c5 and it all worked fine and bsi doesn't care). The mileage of the car isn't stored in the clocks, it's stored in one of the other ecu's (either the bsi or the engine edu) because the odometers on the new clocks showed the correct mileage for the car, after I swapped them.

[addo]

If the donor VIN is still on the BSI (very likely) then I'd be definitely looking for the code to suit it. Maybe after confirming basic compatibility via research on Peugeot Serve Iceblocks. Body type is easy enough to configure.

I do wonder if there is a possible difference in protocols between some elements of the car and donor, 307s were CAN-VAN up to about 2004, then full CAN.

[wheeler]

Nb: Swapping the clocks doesn't seem to matter (I've upgraded the clocks in my c5 and it all worked fine and bsi doesn't care). The mileage of the car isn't stored in the clocks, it's stored in one of the other ecu's (either the bsi or the engine edu) because the odometers on the new clocks showed the correct mileage for the car, after I swapped them.

The mileage is Stored in the BSI and the instrument panel/clocks. If you change one or the other the mileage on the car will permanently default to the highest of the 2. For example your car has 50,000 miles on it & you buy a brand new panel from the dealers with 0 miles on it when you plug in the new panel the BSI will write the 50,000 miles onto the new panel, It would also happen the same way if you were replacing a brand new BSI only the instrument panel would write the 50,000 onto the new BSI.
Example 2 would be if your car again has 50,000 miles & your temporarily borrow your mates instrument panel that has 80,000 miles on it, when you fit his panel in it will (permanently) write the 80,000 miles onto your BSI, when you swap them back over your BSI will then write the 80,000 miles onto your instrument panel & your car will now have 80,000 miles on the clock.
The replacement clocks you fitted must have had a lower mileage on them than what yours had so your BSI would have overwritten the lower milage with your current one.

The 3/5 door configuration should be easily changed, there wont be 2 different BSI's for a 3 & 5 door car.
VAN/CAN & CAN/CAN BSI's are physically not interchangeable as they have different connectors so that shouldn't be the problem.

[wurlycorner]

Fair enough, good to know.
How does that explain the mileage on his car going down by 90k though?

Also if his bsi refusing to update to the correct car config and has been physically tampered with, I still see no reason why it's not sensible to change it with an intact one.

[addo]

If you fit both the donor BSI and clocks, the car will show the donor mileage. I've done this.

So far as the CAN/VAN aspect goes, I had an '04 307 "patient" where the donor vehicle matched in BSI, fusebox and dash connectors perfectly - yet the specs per VIN told me it was full CAN where the recipient was unquestionably CAN/VAN.

[wheeler]

Fair enough, good to know.
How does that explain the mileage on his car going down by 90k though?

It doesn't, I was just explaing how the stored mileage thing works with the BSI & instrument panel. The car in question sounds like it may well have been clocked, I believe it can be done via the OBD now on these cars but in the past it had to be done by re writing the eeproms on both the BSI & instrument panel, if you just done the one of them the other would just write the original mileage back on, the fact both of these have been tampered with suggests it may well have been clocked.

Also if his bsi refusing to update to the correct car config and has been physically tampered with, I still see no reason why it's not sensible to change it with an intact one.

I would say its down to cost, a brand new one is lots of ££ plus you wouldn't be able to program it to the car without the correct code that's stored in the injection ECU, In this case the correct code is in question. Second hand will also be ££ as you would need the matching injection ECU & transponder chips.
I think it would be worth getting the code first & correctly configuring the BSI first. If the code is obtained it can easily be verified by attempting to re code the keys.

If you fit both the donor BSI and clocks, the car will show the donor mileage. I've done this.

That's correct, if both units are changed at the same time the donor mileage will display on the original car.

So far as the CAN/VAN aspect goes, I had an '04 307 "patient" where the donor vehicle matched in BSI, fusebox and dash connectors perfectly - yet the specs per VIN told me it was full CAN where the recipient was unquestionably CAN/VAN.

Not sure what your saying here but the BSI & under bonnet fusebox of a VAN/CAN & a CAN/CAN version are physically different & cant interchange with each other, the connectors are different.

[avamotor]

okay, i dont have 2 BSI's, the car is either clocked or someone has replaced the ECU, BSI and clocks from another car although they have destroyed the BSI in opening it for reasons unknown. Only looking back through MOTs after i eventually got the logbook highlighted in 2012 the mileage was 167,000miles, car was towed to be before knowing all this with 98,000 miles!

Thank you for the reply's, trying not to confuse matters now and just in case i have gone and got exactley the same type BSI and drivers side electric front windows/mirrors switch pack from another 307" from the scrappy's today.

Details off my BSI are:-

plan 9636760580 F
Valeo G0X-00
Ref. ANN A11998

Piece 9644098380
Variente : E
Boot : 7.2

I cant go to Peugeot as my suspicions are that the car has been "tampered with" and is a different BSI (for which i dont have any VIN details), and when i rang them, they have already said that they will ONLY give me the code that should have been on the car from the Factory as long as i can prove i am the owner with the V5 and i have proof of my identity i.e. driving licence card. Apart from that i dont want to give them £24 as the code they give is not forced to be correct as to whats on the car.

The car seems to be somewhat frankenstien-ish in that parts have been replaced and date tickets/stickers put it all over the place, window motors from 2004, comm 2000 unit from 2006 (but still working?). My car was supposed to be 2002 so i know its been hacked about.

The reason i have another BSI is because i cant find anywhere to change the configuaration without know the confidential code and am somewhat stuffed until i can retrieve the correct code. I think I will be left with trying to find where the eeprom is on both bsi's for both codes before trying to clear it to "effective brand new state".

I cant justify or afford one of the code readers that plug in and give a code and as the car is parked on the drive currently being rebuilt properly awaiting the glorious day of an MOT, neither can it be driven anywhere. Does anyone know the inside of one of these units or a way around the above?

Garry

UPDATE:- just tried the electric front windows, drivers side is at least working better, nothing happening when passenger windows switch of drivers door switch pack is depressed. LED under switch still merrily pulsing out a code! its something also that i cant decipher.

[wurlycorner]

In case you want to go down that line, I asked in the breakers yard I was in today, how much they would want for bsi and engine ECU (all the bits I've had off them for my C5 have been dirt cheap). They said they'd do a matched set (i.e. from same car) for £80.

[avamotor]

Thank you Wurlycorner, very grateful, however I decided to check some "unknown conditions" for my own piece of mind. So first as I had another driverside electric front windows/mirrors switch pack I put on yesterday and whilst the drivers side window went up in better incremental steps, the paasenger side window wouldn't wind down using the passenger switch of the drivers side pack.

Secondly checked the Earths from and to motors all good and nothing in the way of resistance which checked out. Thirdly checked wires for continuity between drivers door to passenger door again all checked out. Tried testing earth into passenger side motor and what comes out of mirror controller and the earth ses to have resistance of about 300ohms?? However this is rhe mirror and temp sensor wiring so could it be a duff motor? Or is 300ohm resistance nothing to worry about? Akso checked "van wires x2" and all checked out between doors!

So I have now deduced with the help of this site and fault finding that either the passenger motor/internal circuitry is possible duff, although it doesnt explain why it works only when Planet Peugeot is plugged in, the switch not operating the passenger side glass of the drivers pack could be BSI related as it struggles to retain its learning of window switch presses I.e up down auti/manual.

Mirrors still not working either so more thinking BSI related, especially as I am on second switch pack, or possible dud switch pack.

does any one know how to set windows to do the auto up/down learning and could someone let me know how to configure this in the bsi and save this configuration too.

[avamotor]

PROBLEM SOLVED!! was profile for diagbox and setting of 3 door in BSI tripping the system up!

Thank you for your contributions.

Garry

[wurlycorner]

Glad to hear you got it sorted