rear height corrector removal

[harryp]

Oh no, no, no .
Left suspension on low on Friday night, came to use it Saturday and the rear would not rise despite several attempts at Citrobic exercises. Yesterday swapped pipes over to prove a point; went high, so it seemed the corrector was seized. Removed corrector and it was solid, so carefully dismantled it. Clean as a whistle inside, but had to give it a whack with a plumbers mallet to get it apart . The shuttle valve had picked up on the baffle - replaced now by one off my old one. I had not removed the connector rod end, but the circlip is still in place. That was bad enough, but at the moment the car is a very large paperweight . Don't understand how this could happen as it's stroke is limited by the internal circlips - I noticed the bump stops need replacing, but that would only strain the linkage surely?
To slow down the LHM leakage from the pipes I used tooth picks in the ends; a very, very bad idea and should have known much better . Replacing the corrector, all seemed well until it came to fit the last pipe and noticed the pick was bent. Must have caught it with my shoulder . On carefully removing it, it left the end in the pipe level with the end . Tried to remove it with a vac pump but no joy at all; a pair of dividers didn't help either. Looking for a 4.85 mm collet to try my dremel with a 1mm drill. Only other alternative as I see it is to cut back the pipe and join, but will have to be done under the car . Sadly the pipe goes up over and across to the n/s - having to feel my way, so guess it is the return pipe to ?????where??? Anyone have any other ideas as how to effect a fix? . Please no laughing .

[citronut]

it might/will make a mess, but you could try hydraulic pressure to pop the pick out

there's only about 2600 psi comes out if its the feed pipe

[harryp]

Malcolm, Thanks for reply, did think of that but unsure of which pipe it is. Been trying to log in to photobucket but one of us is playing Silly Bees. Will add pics when/if I can get it going . The pipe in question is one of the two adjacent pipes on the corrector which face the o/s and goes up and forward over (subframe?) and as far as I can feel, then goes across to the nearside of the car. I don't know what its function is and can only find a sketch regarding the DS which marks the single pipe on t'other side as the feed, and if I got it correct, this pipe may be a return to whever it goes.
Regards

[myglaren]

PhotoBucket working fine here.
Try a different browser.

[citroenxm]

This has now arrived at its dismantleing place now harry...



Ill be making a seperate post for the car else where..

[harryp]

Paul, great! Will have a look at pipe on Exec and report back. By Reg, take it it's quartz?? Will be taking Forte off road temp as can't see getting pipe repaired any time soon. Under pressure to get rid of one or both and buy something newer - can't see it happening, but really need a vehicle to travel about in . Loads of work on the house about to kick off....
PM sent.

[citroenxm]

Yes.. quartz harry..

[harryp]

Hope to see it soon!
Pics attached of removed corrector and pipe in question.
http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/Harry ... l.jpg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/Harry ... q.jpg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this works

[citronut]

have you looked at the pipe layout in this thread

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... =3&t=48254" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[ekjdm14]

If it's a return pipe, couldn't you blow compressed air down from the appropriate outlet at the tank? (not sure I'm fully awake at this point so my apologies if I'm missing something here!)

[harryp]

Hi both, had a brief look at the diagram. Now have to sus out which pipe, but was not sure if it went to a 4-way connector first...
I was hoping to use my tyre inflator to blow down a/the pipe! Not a huge volume but as it's blocked may well work. Thanks as always for reply's, Kind regards

[harryp]

Hi all,
Have checked what seems like hundreds of posts regarding LHM etc. Have consulted Doc Backup too but cant find what I'm looking for.
Does anyone know, or have data, for where each pipe into the LHM reservoir comes from? I am trying to "blow" down the rear oil return pipe from the height corrector. The only effect so far is that I have been anointed with LHM when removing the air line . Have tried them all and only one takes any air. and back it comes .
The only alternatives left are 1, to connect the pipework back up, but the toothpick will almost certainly jam further up the pipe making a bad situation even worse, or 2, cut end off and splice in a connector and new end. Of course this means making a flare on the piece still attached to the car; but I have neither pipe, connecting pieces or much more importantly. a splicing tool. I can get pipe etc made up, but does anyone remotely near Telford have the kit to flare the pipe on the car? My trusty old Sykes Pickavant obviously won't do; as you know can't get dies for the Cit 3.5mm pipe. Other than that, it means a lot of hard cash for a flaring tool; so what can the group recommend? Thanks again.......

[citronut]

the trouble i can see with blowing down the return lines from the front is you risk poping any/all the branch joints apart down the line, as quite offten there will be three way rubber unions were small bore plastic pipes couple from various points,

mayb if you have the likes of a dremel you might be able to drill up into the tooth pick to break it down, i wood ( whooooops sorry i couldnt resist that ) would try to use a drill bit as close to the internal bore of the pipe

[harryp]

Did try with a drill, but not enough rpm; next up was my Aldi "Dremel"... sadly only supplied with collet far too big for the 1mm drill I was using. Looked on ebay and found several collets for Dremel, but the dia is 0.5mm smaller than the Aldi. Will get a set and gently flare out the bottom to fit; the nut cone should hold the top central, I hope. Has been suggested I try by hand to work the drill up the side and break it up so later today..... I reckon the LHM has caused the wood to swell as it seems fairly tightly wedged in. If Dremel doesn't work the next step would be to cut and join the pipe (after clearing, of course). Does any one know of a joining kit for straight non-flared 3.5mm pipe?? As it would seem to be the fluid return, the pressure should be minimal, probably subject to surge when the corrector shuttle valve opens due to the narrow bore and length?.
Regards, Harry

[citronut]

if you use a LHD drill bit it might draw the pick outas the bit goes in