P reg 106 saved from the scrappy

[MikeT]

Helping neighbour get his car back on the road after many, many years of neglect (he'd given up hope of DIY repair). After gentle encouragement and advise, he bravely bought all the parts in and we waited for warmer weather. She's all but ready for presenting to the MOT though I'm not 100% confident there's not a problem with the coolant system (hoping air lock and thermostat but suspect HG until further tests/observations).

Anyway, finalising jobs today and guess what happened to the very last brake nipple (Rear O/S) we tried to loosen?

Due to tight budget we will attempt extraction/drilling first but how likely is this to succeed? If no-go, is there a cheap source of replacement cylinders to be had?

[Northern_Mike]

A new cylinder is less than a tenner on eBay. That's for a good one. A QH one is only a fiver.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[MikeT]

A new cylinder is less than a tenner on eBay. That's for a good one. A QH one is only a fiver.

Cool! Didn't think they'd be that cheap (wonder how much an official PSA nipple costs?) - teach me to not bother doing a quick ebay search, huh?

[spider]

Its going to cause issues I think if you try to drill it out, as said a new cylinder is the easiest choice here.

As a sidenote did you just try to undo it and it sheared ? , a gentle tap on them (on the end) sometimes can help to loosen any rust, as can a spray of plus-gas too.

[MikeT]

Its going to cause issues I think if you try to drill it out, as said a new cylinder is the easiest choice here.

As a sidenote did you just try to undo it and it sheared ? , a gentle tap on them (on the end) sometimes can help to loosen any rust, as can a spray of plus-gas too.

Found GSF selling one for £6 (on ebay) so owner will likely go for new cylinder instead of faffing around trying to drill/extract old nipple. And yes, I barely put any force on the 6-sided ring spanner when it broke, it was like butter and made me wonder if it was already pre-weakened from past use. I admit I didn't tap it or use heat first as the other three came undone dead easy after a simple squirt of plusgas.

[chinkostu]

Just make sure to back off the adjuster before trying to get the drum off! And get a decent flare spanner too.

New cylinders are dirt cheap and probably better than drilling and tapping the old ones.

Have you bled the cooling system properly? An old coke bottle works well as an expansion tank to get any airlocks out

[MikeT]

Just make sure to back off the adjuster before trying to get the drum off! And get a decent flare spanner too.

New cylinders are dirt cheap and probably better than drilling and tapping the old ones.

Have you bled the cooling system properly? An old coke bottle works well as an expansion tank to get any airlocks out

We've already had the drums off to install new shoes (not that they were required in the end but was already bought with new front pads, pins and brake fluid etc) so shouldn't be a problem removing them again EXCEPT, you're supposed to discard and renew both the hub nut and dust cover each use (according to Haynes). Don't think we will this time.

I found one bleed nipple on what appears to be the matrix feed hose and with it opened to vent, patiently trickle-topped up the coolant as each splash very slowly dissipated into the bowels of the system. Will check results later when I go over it again pre-MOT (soon).

[chinkostu]

Theres another on the thermostat housing too, allen key shaped aswell as on top of the radiator (same style as the drain screw). The best way is to cut the bottom off a 2 litre pop bottle and stick it into the rad, then keep the level high whilst opening the bleed screws and you possibly get bubbles out of the top too.

As far as hubnuts go, swap axles so the stake in the nut is at a different spot. You can reuse them (god knows i have across 2 saxos, a 206 and a 306) but only if the nut itself is still fairly decent.


Theres a guide here at saxperience which may help too, as the systems are of course the same

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[MikeT]

Theres another on the thermostat housing too, allen key shaped aswell as on top of the radiator (same style as the drain screw). The best way is to cut the bottom off a 2 litre pop bottle and stick it into the rad, then keep the level high whilst opening the bleed screws and you possibly get bubbles out of the top too.

As far as hubnuts go, swap axles so the stake in the nut is at a different spot. You can reuse them (god knows i have across 2 saxos, a 206 and a 306) but only if the nut itself is still fairly decent.


Theres a guide here at saxperience which may help too, as the systems are of course the same

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for that, didn't need the header bottle but followed the bleed sequence and got in another 1Litre, ran it up, heater blew hot eventually (suspect it needs a new thermostat but owner not bothered) and turned it off once fan kicked in. Cautiously released filler cap, bit of hiss and overspill but level remained high so sorted! And my suspicions of possible HG failure have diminished.

As well as getting it insured last night and MOT booked for MOT, the owner spent the day washing, hoovering, re-blacking and general "tarting" her up. She looks quite presentable and come MOT, should be taxed too.