Easy one this: I found a pressure cap that fitted the one on my car in a local scrapyard. It came off another XUD engine and was made from plastic. If you drill a hole straight through the centre and force some similar size piping through it (available from modelling shops) or as I did use an old biro body, you have your own fitting from which to attach a tube to a header tank. No more messing around with Cola bottles. Simply replace with your own pressure cap when system is filled and bled.
Ross
Home made bleeder for XUD cooling system
Moderator: RichardW
This is how I bleed the cooling system on an XUD. It's messy, but free and works 100%.
With a COLD engine, refil with the correct ratio of water & coolant. The, undo the highest bleed nipple. Wipe the filler neck on the rad clean, place you lips over it and blow. When a stream of coolant comes from the open bleed point get a friend to put the cap back on. Top up the rad again and you're done[8D]
With a COLD engine, refil with the correct ratio of water & coolant. The, undo the highest bleed nipple. Wipe the filler neck on the rad clean, place you lips over it and blow. When a stream of coolant comes from the open bleed point get a friend to put the cap back on. Top up the rad again and you're done[8D]
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- Joined: 13 May 2008, 00:01
- Location: UK
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You can use a Pressol funnel as a header tank. One of the big orange ones with a long flexible spout. This is the type. I'm not sure if it's the same size as the one I used today:-
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &width=800
I got the idea of using the funnel from somebody posting on here. You can use the funnel by wedging the tapered part of the spout into the filler neck. This works, but you might get leaks and waste anti-freeze by having to top it up.
I came up with the idea of using a cork in the filler neck, as well as the funnel. However I didn't have any corks, let alone one big enough to go in the filler neck. So I made one, by cutting it out of a cork sanding block, with a Stanley knife. I drew a circle on the sanding block using a pair of compasses. Make the cork slightly bigger than the filler neck, so it can be pushed in, by hand, to make a water-tight fit. Take the cork out and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the diameter of the end of the funnel spout. Push the spout into the cork, and the cork into the filler neck. It should make a better seal than using the funnel alone. The cork will stay in the funnel neck, unlike other methods, where the bottle tends to vibrate out, once the engine starts running.
Paul
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &width=800
I got the idea of using the funnel from somebody posting on here. You can use the funnel by wedging the tapered part of the spout into the filler neck. This works, but you might get leaks and waste anti-freeze by having to top it up.
I came up with the idea of using a cork in the filler neck, as well as the funnel. However I didn't have any corks, let alone one big enough to go in the filler neck. So I made one, by cutting it out of a cork sanding block, with a Stanley knife. I drew a circle on the sanding block using a pair of compasses. Make the cork slightly bigger than the filler neck, so it can be pushed in, by hand, to make a water-tight fit. Take the cork out and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the diameter of the end of the funnel spout. Push the spout into the cork, and the cork into the filler neck. It should make a better seal than using the funnel alone. The cork will stay in the funnel neck, unlike other methods, where the bottle tends to vibrate out, once the engine starts running.
Paul