C3 Gearbox Driveshaft Oil Seals

[hamster99]

I'm about to replace the drive shaft oil seal on my wife's C3 VTR this weekend. I've had a look underneath and it doesn't seem that difficult to get at, especially once the under tray is removed.

Anybody done this and any tips or things to avoid when I do it.

Thanks

Rob

[RichardW]

Which side? Looks like BE4 box, and clamp bolt arrangement at the struts. Done a couple, but not this specific engine / box / car. I'd say: Drain the oil before you start; only use 75W80 to refill; getting the ball joint out of the hub can be a trial - eased by a good push in on the hub whilst you lever out, or a big long bar under the subframe ; Mind you, that's after you get the pinch bolt out, which like to seize in; if it's the offside, be prepared to battle with the intermediate bearing; if you've got a 35mm socket, undo the hub nut, it will make life easier in the long run; warm the oil up before trying to re-fill the box, and if you can, get a bottle with a long spout to add it back into the box. As to the 30s or required to actually change the seal just lever it out with a big screwdriver, then line the new one up, and tap it in flat with a block of wood as a spacer.

[wheeler]

Being a VTR it will be a sensodrive box but essentially the same, only difference is the gearbox takes slightly more oil, don't use the 'level' plug as you will fill the box short, drain it & refill with the correct amount, I think it's 2 litres from memory but you would need to look it up to confirm.

[hamster99]

Hi Richard
Yes it's the BE4/5 box (sensodrive was on later models) and it's the off-side seal which is leaking so no need to worry about the intermediate bearing. Mind you, having taken the driveshafts out of my C5 when I did the turbo it doesn't phase me too much....
I'm going to give all the bolts and ball joints etc a good dousing with plus gas during the week so hopefully they wont be too much trouble when I come to do the job on the weekend (fingers crossed)
Also changing brakes at the same time so hoping for some decent (or at least dry!) weather
Rob

[RichardW]

OS is the long one with the bearing....

[wheeler]

Ooops, just noticed it was an HDi VTR, just assumed it was a 1.6 petrol which i think are all sensodrives ?

[Gibbo2286]

Be careful with ordering the seals, there is some confusion at both the dealers and the factors over part numbers and they often supply the wrong ones.

[hamster99]

Yes Richard, you're right again. It is in fact the nearside (passenger) one which I need to replace
The chap at the dealer was confused too when I rang to check stock but they have lots of both ones so I will make sure they give me the right one when I call in later this week.
I will take in the relevant Citroen service diagram and parts list just to make sure.

[hamster99]

Well, did the oil seal replacement this weekend. Just as Richard said, the oil seal itself was a 30 second job, it's the rest of it that took all day yesterday...!!!
Main problem I had was with trying to remove the bottom ball joint shank once I had removed the pinch bolt from the bottom part of the hub carrier. The Haynes BOL says "use a small chisel to open up the two sides and release the shank of the ball joint".......fat chance of that.
First, you can't get a bl..dy chisel in there that easily and second, the gap is already quite wide so the chisel hits the ball joint shank well before it has any chance to open up the gap...!!!
It's beyond me why manufacturers have to try these "new" types of joint connections when the old tapered ball joint shaft and lock nut is a tried and tested method. Perhaps PSA sell an expensive "special" tool for it..!!
After spending an hour hammering it to death and getting nowhere I decided the only alternative was to remove the three bolts that hold the ball joint to the lower wishbone. Pretty easy going from then on (wish id tried it earlier) and there was enough movement in the hub to remove the inner end of the drive shaft from the gearbox without undoing the driveshaft hub retaining nut.
All done and wife now happy again...which is the main thing..!!!

[RichardW]

You just need more brute force and ignorance!

[hamster99]

LOL.....nice one Richard, I'll remember that for next time....

[flying clutchman]

I can't believe the manual's advice to open the bottom of the hub carrier. If you succeed in this you will break the bottom of the carrier! (i've seen the aftermath of this). This system is not new by the way, it's been used by fords since the mk1 fiesta and by PSA for a similar time. The knack is to use a club hammer and long bar to move the pin down a bit, spray with wd40 or suchlike, hammer back into position. Repeat acouple of times. Now get a long, strong bar and stand on it. Out it pops! Long means 3ft plus by the way. Simples.

[kk13171759588]

Precautions and Tips
First, remove the underbody skid plate; this significantly increases operating space, that's for sure.
When pulling out the driveshaft, do not pry it forcefully. Gently wiggle it from side to side and pull it out to avoid damaging the half-shaft or differential.
Use a small flathead pry bar to remove the old oil seal. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the new oil seal and then gently tap it in. Ensure the oil seal is aligned and installed horizontally, otherwise it will leak.
When reinstalling the half-shaft, align it with the spline and push it in. You should hear a "click" when it's in place.
After replacement, the transmission fluid level must be checked. If the fluid level is too low, add transmission fluid, otherwise it will damage the transmission.
Throughout the process, avoid bumping or striking the smooth surface of the half-shaft oil seal area; any scratches will cause leaks.
As long as the oil seal is aligned, the half-shaft is installed correctly, and the correct amount of fluid has been added, the first attempt should be successful.
Many oil seals of various models are available at reasonable prices.