2001 Citroen C5 - Clock / Radio / 12v Issues

[grinder]

Afternoon all ,

Been having fun with the car for the last few days , and ive decided its time to ask for help rather than tow the car into a field and set fire to it

Its a 2001 Citroen C5 2.0 Petrol - just incase you need this information , its been working fine for the last 2 years , no issues at all

And then i decided to make the brave move and swap the headunit .. and this is where it all started to go wrong ....

So old headunit out , new one tested hung out of the dash

It worked fine , apart from when you pulled the keys out , it stayed on .. didnt like this , so swapped the red and yellow leads around .. and then it was dead .. nothing , wouldnt even power up

so put the old radio back in , and that now didnt work either

OK , checked the fuse , looked OK , belled it thru with a meter and that reckons its fine aswell

re-tried the new radio , nothing , re-tried the old one , nothing

gave it up as a bad job at this point

Took the new radio into the garage and hooked it up - works like a charm .. so i know the radio is fine

Did a load of googling and people say its easier to take the switched 12v from the back of the fag lighter - so that will be the next plan

When i jumped in the car the next day , the clock on the dash was showing 00:00 so reset that to the correct time and date and continued driving

Did what i needed to do , the central locking wouldnt unlock on the key fob .. strange but works fine with the key

Got the car started and the clock was back showing 00:00 .. hummm interesting

Reset it back again to the correct time and drove home

Got out the car , locked OK with the key fob and unlocked fine on the key fob .. locked the car and went in

Next day , couldnt unlock the car on the fob and the clock has reset

So started the car , reset the clock to the correct time , stopped the car , jumped out , locked and unlocked the car , jumped back in and the clock still showing the correct time ( awesome !! )

drove it to work , locked the car and left it for the day

Returned to the car at home time , central locking wont unlock from the fob and the clock has reset

so im gussing now , that once i turn off the engine , im able to lock and unlock the car for XX mins and the clock will hold its memory for the same time ??

Also i have notied , when the auto lights come on , everything lights up APART from the clock ( not sure if all this is connected ) ??

I have read up about resetting the BSI - but havent done this yet , as everything else on the car is working ( lights , windows , fag lights , 12v socked , air con , heaters etc.. )

I have checked the radio fuse again , and thats fine , but i dont know if there is a fuse that connects to the clock to hold its memory when the engine is not running ?

So does anyone have any ideas ??

Or do i go with the BSI reset and see if it sorts itself out ??

If you need anymore info , just let me know:)

Sorry for my long first post , but its better getting the issue out on the table to start with

Thanks

Stu / Grinder

[sparksie]

hi Stu
No experience of C5s, sorry, but plenty of fun sorting out stereo installations over the years!
You've killed the unswitched feed, most likely, which will be on a separate fuse, probably not claiming any relationship to the stereo.
In your shoes, I'd be checking for power on both sides of every fuse, until I identified the dud.
Don't pull the fuses and "bell through" them, unless you're pretty sure the one your pulling has blown.
Instead, with the fuse in place, check for power at each leg, by placing the probe agaist the metal pip sticking through the top of the fuse over each leg, while grounding the other probe. The dud will show a significant difference between legs, though may not be as clear cut as 12v and 0v. If the reading is not the same on both sides of a fuse, that fuse is dud!
When swapping the red and yellow wires, it's all too easy to accidentally touch them off the case of the radio, or indeed any grounded metal in the vicinity.

[grinder]

I have to admit , i didnt think of that .. i will try it over the weekend and report back

Although when i was testing 12v at the radio , the perm live always showed 12v .. which is why i thought i havent killed that side

But there could be more than one perm 12v feed

Still doesnt explain why the light on the clock doesnt work .. but you never know what bit runs thru what fuses !

I had one car , blew the radio fuse and it told me the boot was open ! LOL

[grinder]

OK , checked all the fuses (well in the glovebox) like you suggested and one was showing 12v on one side and nothing on the other

So pulled that fuse and yes it was blown , so have swapped that , and set the clock ( well added 1 min to it to stop it flashing )

Will have to check in 30 mins or so to see if thats worked as i dont know how long it kept the time for last time ( i knew that it would hold it for 30 seconds , but anything past that i dont know )

I will keep you posted

[grinder]

Clock showing 24mins and central locking seems to be working as it should be

Will check tomorrow again

The need to work out the best way of wiring the radio in

[Northern_Mike]

If it is anything like the Berlingo of a same age, the best thing is to get it on Lexia diagnostic software and tell it the head unit isn't installed in the BSI. That way it is isolated from the rest of the multiplexed stuff and you just get your power and speakers, and it all works. I'm not sure if this is the case with the C5 though..

Enviado desde mi GT-I9505 usando Tapatalk

[grinder]

the lexia is prob worth more than the car is !

Its been suggested to take a switched 12v from the fag lighter as the BSI ignores that ( i hope ! )

[Hell Razor5543]

You could ask one of the members with a Lexia to help;

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 19&t=29178" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Northern_Mike]

It may not be relevant to the C5. Someone will know.. The Berlingo did some very odd stuff when I changed the head unit before I told the BSI it wasn't installed.

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[wheeler]

You don't need lexia for this, you just need to wire the new radio as per its instructions. Although the C5 has ISO plugs it's not plug & play. On the power block there should only be three wires from the C5 connected to your new radio, permanent live, the earth & an ignition live run from the fag lighter socket. There are wires in the the ISO plug that should not connect to your stereo as they are not designed to be, there is also no ignition feed at this plug, only a VAN+ feed that is live when the network is 'awake' (hence the time delay thing). If your new radio comes with its own little wiring harness isolate the unused wires here so you don't need to butcher the cars existing wiring.

[grinder]

there are 3 wires to the fag lighter ... anyone know which is the switched live ?

Ive not worked out how to remove the lighter to get to the back of it yet

And then i suppose the tricky bit is getting a wire from that to the rear of the radio !! - without removing most of the dash

[grinder]

checked this morning and everything seems to be working as it should

[grinder]

me again .. car is still working as it should be

Took a 12v from the fag lighter for the new radio and got all that fitted

If anyone else stumbles across this thread .. then if you remove the gear shift trim , and find the block connector for the fag lighter , the middle cable ( red and white on mine ) was the 12v switched feed

Took a bit to get it off the fag lighter so that i could meter it thru ( there is a tab that i couldnt see ! ) , but it was the middle wire

[BX]

I have just seen this thread now. I know you are sorted but I want to add a little bit of advice for anyone adding a phone kit that plugs into the stereo wiring. If the original stereo is still fitted do not use the power feeds to the stereo. Feed the phone kit with unswitched power from the 12V outlet in the centre console and with ignition switched power from the fang lighter. If the stereo has already been changed the power issue should already be sorted.

[wheeler]

Another option is autoleads sell an adaptor to let you use the cars original remote controls but also creates a 'fake' ignition live at the new ISO plug meaning you don't have to run an additional ign live to your new radio (or handsfree kit if you have an aftermarket radio as well).