Mk1 Xantia Issues

[citroenxm]

Yea James, they are. However, they should be an interchangeable thing the steering colums as the UJ ends where the colum attach's to the lower rod is the same size.

[Xaccers]

NO you WONT need a Torx 50 bit. you will need a T30 to get the air bag off, and a 22mm Socket to get the wheel off!!

Long T30 at that and plenty of Percy wotsit to mate up as sometimes they can be a pita.
Oh and when you undo the but don't do it all the way before pulling the wheel off, otherwise you could smack yourself in the face with it

[Hell Razor5543]

When we did Northern_Mikes' V6 he needed a T50 to get the wheel off to replace the slip ring.

[Xaccers]

When we did Northern_Mikes' V6 he needed a T50 to get the wheel off to replace the slip ring.

His V6 was a S2 though wasn't it?

[citroenxm]

YUP!

[Hell Razor5543]

^Snap!

[Old-Guy]

Definitely a long thin T30 screwdriver for an S1; a ¼" hex drive T30 bit in a long adaptor is NBG as the head is down a hole too narrow for a ¼" adaptor.
Before starting disconnect the battery!
After removing both T30s centre the steering wheel. Unplug the airbag with your face outside the car!
Undo the nut and BEFORE disturbing the steering wheel, carefully mark the position of the wheel hub in relation to the shaft. Put the nut back, spin it down and then back it off ONE turn before attempting to loosen the wheel - otherwise you will smack yourself in the face with it.

[citroenxm]

If you grap the wheel 6 o clock IE: Top and Bottom and push top, pull bottom, and pull top and pull bottom in a rocking action while applying SMALL pulling action the wheel shouldn;t then POP you in the face, but wiggle loose, you can then draw it carefully, and not destroy the slip ring when the cable doesnt slide through as you smak your face!

NO Ive never hit myself, as Ive always used the above method...

[CitroJim]

NO Ive never hit myself, as Ive always used the above method...

I have. Once. You only do it once and then learn from it

[angle]

Just a quick update - aux belt was fairly manky and a new one has sorted most of the noise. Don't fancy having to change the auto-tensioner, so its as good as its going to get. It also seems to have resulted in my brakes being significantly less terrifying, although they're still not completely right so a new accumulator and a bleed are on the cards for when money, time and good weather intersect.

Fuel gauge appears to have woken up with a bit of use, although it still only works when it feels like it so will try and get the correct bit off Old-Guy's breaker. Unfortunately I'm also having what seems to be fairly typical heater problems, although this did give me an enormous sense of well-being this morning when for a 15 minute period the fan and fuel gauge both worked at the same time...

[oscar]

The trouble with the Aux belt is if the auto tensioner is cacked which they are more times than not as that's why belt goes mostly it won't tension belt properly.
the bearing which is needle rollers that don't move anywhere much so grind a slot in sleeve to run against and being where it is get's hot then cold and Citroen show it the grease pot then quickly take it away so never gets much from new.
also theres a shock absorber type item that bolts to cradle and other end on side of tensioner that gets shagged out also with rubber bushes getting elongated.
Citro Jim's the boy for info on that job and Old-guy's probably got some serviceable bits from his one.
As been said if belt fails they like to take out as much bit's as it can normally your timing belt.
So if you do get red light come on don't try restarting it have a head under bonnet look.
If you do have to replace tensioner take new one apart and give it a good splodge of grease.
It's not that hard a job just getting bearing sleeve out of cradle is the hard bit a 1/4 drive socket extension bar fits in eccentric pulley
The newer tensioners use around an 11mm square where as older used 3/8th if i remember right?
but someone clever will be along soon!