Activa number 3

[Captain Slow]

I thought that might be the case.

Suggestions?

[Captain Slow]

Thanks. I'll wait for other replies too, but if there is one thing I cannot stand is budget tires!

[Northern_Mike]

Don't put Goodyear Excellence on there. I did. They're rubbish. Kumho Solus or Uniroyal Rainexpert are available in the right size.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[bxzx16v]

Would V rated be ok as they are rated to 150Mph? W rated are 168mph, or does there have to be a % over the cars maximum mph just to be on the safeside. What's the most anyone's had an activa up to (on a private road )

Mark

[Hell Razor5543]

We all know how quick insurance companies are to find a get-out clause. If you have fitted (by the manufacturers' standards) sub-standard equipment (tyres included) you can almost guarantee they won't pay out. However, if you fit equipment that exceeds those standards then you should be covered. If you can get tyres with a Y rating you should be covered.

This webpage shows you the ratings, and also suggests you could invalidate your insurance with lower tyre ratings;

http://www.blackcircles.com/general/speedrating" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Northern_Mike]

Would V rated be ok as they are rated to 150Mph? W rated are 168mph, or does there have to be a % over the cars maximum mph just to be on the safeside. What's the most anyone's had an activa up to (on a private road )

Mark

Sat Nav indicated 132mph.

[bxzx16v]

^^^ ^^^.


Mark

[Hell Razor5543]

I did a Google search, and found this useful titbit;

http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/f ... 993/11266/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I also looked up Formula One tyres (which is where I got the tyres from Gracie) and found these (they are W rated), but I wouldn't know which are best;

http://www.f1autocentres.co.uk/tyre-results.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Captain Slow]

Well, it's home.

First impressions are good. The interior with the leather is excellent, and the ride is pretty smooth. Still might change spheres tho. The radio doesn't work as it needs the code, and there are a few niggly issues with the interior which just require a bit of time, such as refitting the rear door card, refitting the center console and giving it a damn good clean (it has mold on the headrests)

Other issues at the moment include the front droplink that needs replacing, replacing the fuel sender unit as it shows empty most of the time and finally working out why the engine management light is on. It also feels a bit slow, which is probably connected to the engine management light. It really needs the cambelt changing and the bodywork is a little tired, but nothing a good clean and a few new bits of chrome trim can't sort. I'd also like to lose the wood from inside. Finally there are the tires, it currently running a mix mash of budgets which isn't good.

[Martycit]

Would V rated be ok as they are rated to 150Mph? W rated are 168mph, or does there have to be a % over the cars maximum mph just to be on the safeside. What's the most anyone's had an activa up to (on a private road )

Mark

I was naughty once with my old Activa on a dual carriageway against a golf gti of the same age p - reg , shot of a roundabout - floored it - shot past the gti and i looked down and was suprised i was doing 135 mph and it didnt take that long to get there, it was 7 years old at the time with 64k on it, I still consider it the best car ive owned

[Captain Slow]

The replacement droplink has now arrived, and should be fitted shortly.

Next up is the ecu light. Could really do with plugging it in to a lexia. Anybody near the New Forest able to help?

[Captain Slow]

Having driven the car tonight for only the second time I have a few questions I need help with please.

The ecu light is on, and the car is rather slow. When on boost it's whistling, I think it has a leak. The car has a boost valve fitted. I wish to remove this, but how do I plug the holes?

The ride is acceptable for now, but when waiting to turn with the wheel turned it's lifting up one side of the car. What is causing this and how is it fixed?

Cambelt needs changing, which kit is best?

Fixing the ecu light and getting it running right are my priorities for now, then it's gradual tlc. One thing I can say is that I really like this one, it's already on a par with my first

[Northern_Mike]

Are you around on weekdays at all Captain slow?

Might be easiest to source a replacement inlet without the recirc valve fitted. I'm sure someone can tell you how to plug it though.

Weird lifting behavior is probably dirty and sticking roll-control rods. Mine did the same thing. Cleaning and spray greasing the rods and their fittings worked a treat. They go across the car from suspension arms. You'll see them if you have a root underneath. Make sure they are clean and can move freely.

ECU light is probably related to the boost leak/blow off valve.

I have a Lexia. I can probably wander down at some point over the next couple of weeks if you don't get sorted. I saw a neurologist today and my plans have been changed somewhat.

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[Captain Slow]

I am at work during the week I am afraid. Any suggestions on where to source a replacement inlet? Failing that, I can purchase a bung (is it 23 or 25mm?)

Lifting behavior is improving with use, but could to with a bit of lube.

thanks for the offer, if you head down this way then let me know!

[wurlycorner]

Mine had/has a dump valve fitted too. I wouldn't have bothered fitting one, but it came like that and ran fine initially, so I left it, but then suddenly the car started mis-behaving. IIRC, it would start, but then sometimes stall as soon as you put your foot on the throttle, or it would keep going but have no power.

I had 2 mobile diagnostic guys out to look at it (I couldn't drive it anywhere by that stage ) and none of them could communicate with the bloody ECU, so I got it trailered over to an old school diagnostic guy who had breakout looms, oscillocopes etc. so he could look at it the old fashioned way.
He got everything set up and then the first thing he tried was to disconnect the vacuum control line to the dump valve and bunged the empty port up. The car then worked fine so he just removed the T piece on the vacuum control line, replaced it with a straight coupling and left the dump valve where it was.

I've been planning to remove the valve and replace it with an original port cover at some point, but not found a replacement bung to do it with, as yet... In theory it should make no difference, because the dump valve should be staying in the sealed condition, but I'm not sure it hasn't started to go a little porous as time has gone on?

Hopefully that description makes sense - if not let me know and I'll take a pic when I get home tonight and post it up for you.

(Still have no idea why it suddenly started causing a problem for the car, either... )