C5 2003 Heating Fan, Main Headlights

[Eddie99]

Hi All,
I have misplaced my Haynes manual (not that it would help me)

Citroen C5 Estate 2003
Headlamps wont work, I have changed the bulbs, When I turn on the lights I can not hear any relay for the headlamps.
Where is the headlamp relay?
I have tested all the fuses I can find and none are gone.

There is only 1 relay that I can find behind the glove compartment (a blue one) I have tested that relay and it is fine.

Second Problem:
The heater motor is not working, I changed the 'thingy' with the heatsink that goes in behind the clutch pedal but it has not made any difference.
The motors for the vents are working and the display seems fine (most of the time) but very little heat output

Any assistance would be appreciated
Regards
Eddie

[Lighty]

The power for the headlamps comes from the under bonnet fuse board, I believe that this contains the relays that work the lights, but they are not changeable, so maybe this box is at fault.
Your description of the heater issue is a little confusing, do you have no fan blower ? Or is the heater just not hot ?

[myglaren]

Check the plugs for the fan module, they have to be fitted in the correct sequence.
Damned if can remember which goes in first but they won't lock in if incorrect. I have the same problem, mine fell out (was unsecured by the two bolts that should have been there), wires burned through and I have slightly chewed up one of the plugs while attempting to rewire it. The fan symbols appear but the fan doesn't run.

[Eddie99]

@Lighty
Thanks for that, I cannot see any relays in that fuse board.
There is heat alright but no blower at any time.

@myglaren
Thanks for the info. I turned off the ignition and fitted the new heater blower fan module thing (the one with the heatsink and the power transistor).
The connecters can only go in one way, one I presume for the power with 2 contacts and the other has 6 contacts.

So I dont know what to do, I am stumped.

I will try to remove the power connector from the heater fan and see if there is power getting to it when the heater is turned on.

Is there a map of where all the relays and fuses are located anywhere?

Thanks...

[myglaren]

@Lighty
Thanks for that, I cannot see any relays in that fuse board.
There is heat alright but no blower at any time.

@myglaren
Thanks for the info. I turned off the ignition and fitted the new heater blower fan module thing (the one with the heatsink and the power transistor).
The connecters can only go in one way, one I presume for the power with 2 contacts and the other has 6 contacts.

So I dont know what to do, I am stumped.

I will try to remove the power connector from the heater fan and see if there is power getting to it when the heater is turned on.

Is there a map of where all the relays and fuses are located anywhere?

Thanks...

It is the sequence they are plugged in that matters, one holds the other in place. IIRC the six pin one goes in first, followed by the two pin one.

[wellad]

Hi Eddie, I've attached the wiring diagram for the headlights for you here, I don't seem to be able to upload a pdf directly. The A11-II in the diagram is your underbonnet fusebox/relay board. The twin relay in the centre of it does both dip and full beams. To be honest, you can't hear the relays from inside the car, but with the bonnet up and fusebox exposed you might be able. As Lighty says, this relay is likely built into the board, and it's triggered through the VAN network rather than conventional wiring. Unfortunately this means you won't be able to cowboy in a conventional auto relay either. If you get the car onto Lexia, you should be able to work out if the problem is coming from the underbonnet fusebox, the BSI or the COMM unit, and replace appropriately.

The heater motor not working generally means the green control unit with the heatsink is failing, did you replace it with another used one or a new one? Also when they fail, usually the fan indicator on the screen won't light up after a few minutes of driving once the instrument panel realises the controller is not responding, and it stays as a hollow fan. This doesn't happen in every case, but if the fan symbol is working consistently it's a good indicator that the controller is fine. You can check the wiring on the small green plug to ensure you have an ignition live and an earth (pins 1 and 2 respectively), other than that I'm not sure what you can check. I have the wiring diagram for the heater also, the only useful piece of information is that the output from the controller comes on pins 3 and 4 of the larger plug. I assume the output is variable voltage to moderate fan speed, but it could also be done through PWM, the diagram doesn't mention it. I can send you this diagram if you like also.

[Eddie99]

Thanks for that myglaren, I have double checked those connectors and they do make a good fit.
I get battery on the single pair one, cant get at the 'output' to check that.

Thank you wellad for your time and effort !
Looking at the headlight diagram it seems that Headlamp Bulb Right goes to F10 at 10a but Left Bulb goes to F9 at 15 to 20A?

I should have stuck with my Xantia, it was more electromechanical than electronic !
I must get an OBD unit alright.
So I will have to hand it in somewhere to get sorted out, might as well get the heater done as well and the other 'stock fault' of the broken door handle



I replaced the green control unit with the heatsink with a new one, (well a new eBay one anyway)
It does not have a hollow fan after a few minutes but if I disconnect the green control unit and restart the car then the hollow fan does eventually come back, so it does not look like that unit.

I have the glove box out and can see what I think is the heater blower motor but I cannot get the connector off it.

I will have to get a garage to look at it at this stage.

Thanks very much for your assistance !

[Eddie99]

By the way wellad do you know any reliable Citroen independent garage around Cork that I could hand the C5 in to?
Thanks

[Stickyfinger]

An Auto Electrician would be better at the job, more likly faster and cheaper too....take the wiring diagram with you...

[Eddie99]

Yeah you are right on that, Good point thanks.
The NCT/MOT/DOE is due next week so I have to hurry...

[wellad]

I can only assume the bigger fuse is xenon related, maybe the headlight motors take their feed off the left bulb? I'm not sure on this, but the diagram doesn't show that fuse supplying anything else and it's for a halogen headlamp. A quick fix for the NCT is to install a separate toggle switch that operates the headlights through an appropriate fuse and relay, there shouldn't be a problem with this.

If you're getting a good live and earth at the smaller plug (and as you say it's in correctly), and the display isn't showing a hollow fan, there should be nothing preventing the fan from working. The only other thing I could suggest is the connection on the blower itself might have corroded? I've replaced my heater controller with a cheap ebay job also, they do seem to work fine.

As for a garage, I haven't been to any so I honestly can't recommend anyone. There is a chap in Galway that does a lot of PSA electrical work, he's well regarded and works for a Pug dealership, but does nixers from home. A garage would likely rob you or just refuse to do the job, an auto sparks would be safer. I'm in Limerick myself, if you're ever up this way I can hook it up to Lexia. The door handle is a handy fix (get it?!), you can use the rear O/S handle also, which tend to be a little cheaper on ebay, or you can even swap the back handle to the front on yours for the NCT. If they fail the then broken rear handle, swap them back again and go back for your free visual retest with the now functioning rear handle

[Eddie99]

Ha Ha good one on the NCT 'fix' for the handle...
and good idea on the light fix also, thanks.
I go to Limerick a fair bit working there.
Its home from home !
So I might take you up on that offer of a look on the Lexia at some stage.

The connector on what I think is the blower motor is proving difficult to remove.
As far as I can tell its the one further away up high with just a pos and neg on the connector.