Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Axa · Unread post by **Axa** » 21 Jan 2014, 11:25

Used som propane to heat it up. Used an hydraulic press. But it would have been as easy to just drill a hold in the wooden plank (that I grinded out a dent in to press against) And then pull the recess/ plughole down against the plank by tightening a nut on a bolt trough the hole.

Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 21 Jan 2014, 11:42

I thought heat may have been involved

I had thought of drilling a hole into the back radius edge of the sump and having a threaded boss welded on that would take a bigger size sump plug, but your method sounds a lot more simple and will be just as good.

Cheers.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 11 Feb 2014, 19:43

micky707 wrote:If the injectors on the 1.6 HDI have a tendency to keep working loose then what is the difference on the 2L and 2,2?

The design of the 2.0 8v which was SOLE PSA design is far superior then the DV6... they use a very sturdy CLAMP and a single 13mm nut to hold the injector in with a washer, and possibly a Lock Washer under the nut!

As for the 1.6, they use two 6mm Allen Headded 10mm diamiter thread type tall nut, and puney type bolt posts, which doube up as cam shaft cover securing bolts, which to me seems too weak and small to hold the injectors in. Theres TWO each injector.

....

As for oil remains...

Another Area of OLD oil storage during an oil change, as Im in the middle of a Turbo job on one of these..

Theres TWO large recessed areas around No.4 cylinder Valves and No.1 Cylinder valves and theres a bit of oil that sits here too!

This and what stays in the sump cant be far off nearly half a litre of oil, plus the bit left in the oil filter House!

Not good and explains why after an oil change the oil goes black straight away!

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 13 Feb 2014, 11:38

citroenxm wrote: As for oil remains...

Another Area of OLD oil storage during an oil change, as Im in the middle of a Turbo job on one of these..

Theres TWO large recessed areas around No.4 cylinder Valves and No.1 Cylinder valves and theres a bit of oil that sits here too!

This and what stays in the sump cant be far off nearly half a litre of oil, plus the bit left in the oil filter House!

Not good and explains why after an oil change the oil goes black straight away!

I've never had the rocker cover off one of these engines but I did notice a recess that was holding oil through the oil filler cap when doing an oil change, obviously there' must be one at the other end (cylinder 1) also.

This engine has a few design flaws when it comes to removing the old oil, and as you say all added together you probably have about half a litre of old oil left in the engine when fully drained, more if the sump isn't perfectly level when draining the oil.

Can't stress enough how important it is to regularly change the oil in these engines.

Cheers.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 13 Feb 2014, 18:46

Ive tried to program my sister now to SHOUT when her service interval milage has 2,500 left, so we can do it at 10k intervals!

Sucess of a Turbo replacment and full check over - sump off etc has got it up and running again and fingers crossed!!

Unread post by **Eddie Nuff** » 13 Feb 2014, 19:35

Do you not think 10k is a bit brave Paul? This Focus I've done is gonna get an oil change every 5k, just for the hell of it.

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 13 Feb 2014, 19:46

Personally I like to change the oil more often than that but maybe that's just me being over cautious. I like the idea of changing it every 6 months regarless of mileage, more often if you cover high mileage.
You can change the oil & filter for under £20 with fully synthetic oil so it's not expensive. (Euro Car Parts oil & filter)

Good luck with the new Turbo hope it's all ok.

Cheers.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 13 Feb 2014, 19:55

This fully synthetic Low SAPs oil is not cheap! But, yea 10k is a bit wide Neil, but its better then urrrm 27k intervals!!

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:02

So I take it the car has a DPF with you using low saps oil.

Cheers.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:05

Me Uncle Buck?

No, dont think it has, its a 2007 1.6 92bhp 1.6 HDi, with Cat but from what I can see no DPF..

Unread post by **Eddie Nuff** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:06

Yeah 27k is a tad on the long side

and the proper oil ain't cheap . . . but neither is a turbo.

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:10

citroenxm wrote:Me Uncle Buck?

No, dont think it has, its a 2007 1.6 92bhp 1.6 HDi, with Cat but from what I can see no DPF..

Yes you

No need for low saps oil if no DPF.

@ Eddie,
what's propper oil.....you an oil snob like?

Cheers.

Unread post by **Eddie Nuff** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:11

Paul try this to find out if it has a dpf.

http://c4owners.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.78" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Unread post by **Eddie Nuff** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:18

The proper oil, for the engine, is fully synth low sulpher stuff at £40 a gallon

At that price you need a sense of humour to change it every 5k or so.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 13 Feb 2014, 20:19

Im certain the VIN is 9HX .. and theres no Fluid top up operations on the Lexia when on this car..

I know its 92 bhp, the turbo is TINY, as you saw Neil! 110s are bigger!

French Car Forum

Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avooid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avooid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avooid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avooid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure

Re: Trying To Avoid 1.6HDI Turbo Failure