doseour valve

[martscar]

Ok I will go with that although I think that's in reverse of whats in the book I think.Thanks.Martin

[Hell Razor5543]

IIIRC I got the order off this forum, and is furthest from reservoir down to nearest.

[martscar]

Just browsing through the old Haynes manual on the Xantia and yes there it is, the bleeding order is in reverse not that it matters now. I thought I had seen it somewhere

[Hell Razor5543]

Well, I could be wrong in the order. However, those in the know refer to Haynes as BoL (Book of Lies), so it is a case of 'pay your money, make your choice'.

[Northern_Mike]

Does it actually matter in a Xantia? I'd have thought with the way the brakes work - the pedal opening a valve rather than pumping, as in conventional brakes - that it wouldn't really matter.

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[Mandrake]

Does it actually matter in a Xantia? I'd have thought with the way the brakes work - the pedal opening a valve rather than pumping, as in conventional brakes - that it wouldn't really matter.

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Yep, it doesn't matter what order you bleed the brakes on a Xantia, as long as they are sufficiently bled. I don't follow any particular order.

Because most of the pipe length for the rear brakes is shared between left and right whichever rear side you bleed first will seem to have more air than the other side, that's just because the first side bled the common length of pipe as well, the second side would only bleed air from where the left and right separate at the T junction.

[Old-Guy]

Personal brake bleeding technique:

• Suspension to high,
  Take tightness off all wheel bolts while suspension is rising,
  Axle stands under both jacking points at one end
  Suspension to Normal (tyres should come off the ground as the opposite end sinks).
  Take both wheels off
  Suspension to High to get max pressure/flow in the brake lines.
  Bleed both callipers at that end
  Suspension to Normal
  Wheels back on

Repeat from beginning for other end.
Tighten all wheel bolts to correct torque.

[martscar]

I am going to try this when I replace the flushimg fluid with LHM.Bled the brakes with no obvious improvement. It seems to be all about pressure, not pads or discs. When I was using them before they almost seemed reluctant to let go whereas now I would say they are BMC ish, just using your foot pressure

[addo]

That sounds like sticky calipers. They should be a snug sliding fit (fronts) on the guides, also look for corrosion buildup around the piston dust seal. If people do not pop out the piston and clean this up (including new dust seals) before fitting new pads, it is forced back into the bore and wedges the piston nicely.

You can get parts from either Dave Kerwood (he's called Brake Parts Superstore, I think) or Bigg Red.

[martscar]

Would this mean that the brakes would, as well as being reluctant to apply, also be slow to release .My front brakes on the Peugeot were constantly getting stuck on. Almost as bad as being poor. At the moment they do stop the discs with slight hand pressure on the pedal and let go instantly,its emergency type stopping that's the problem but I take your comments on board with thanks

[addo]

This condition manifests as poor clamping pressure, poor releasing, excessive brake dust and often squeaky discs as you drive.

[martscar]

I wonder if there is a clamp pressure test.apart from putting them on and running in the back of someone that is. A fluid pressure at the calliper would be good

[citronut]

I wonder if there is a clamp pressure test.apart from putting them on and running in the back of someone that is. A fluid pressure at the calliper would be good

the easiest way to test/check what evver work you do is helping to make them work better, would be call by your local MOT station and ask if they couls test it on there rollers,

[Northern_Mike]

This condition manifests as poor clamping pressure, poor releasing, excessive brake dust and often squeaky discs as you drive.

In a 2cv, it also manifests itself as sudden disappearance of all brakes followed by bad language and brown pants.

Seizing caliper being slow to release was boiling the fluid. I found out approaching a line of stationary traffic. Judicious use of the handbrake, ramming it into 1st geat and rubbing the nearside wheels along the kerb avoided disaster.

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[addo]

What I reckon we're seeing here is a good example of different attitudes to different parts. I'd personally prefer good brakes and rubbish tyres if money is tight, but if the anchors scrape through an MOT others seem to consider them adequate.