Post BSI Reset.... Window retrain

[Stickyfinger]

Got the dreaded windows down when button up problem ....can't seem to retrain just the drivers door window.....down is down, up is down...aggggggggg

All works OK on the KeyFob lock/windows close button...keyfob is a lights On version

05 plate C5 Facelift

Cant find the retrain procedure...help

[Northern_Mike]

Got the dreaded windows down when button up problem ....can't seem to retrain just the drivers window

Oh. Mine does that too. I just thought it was screwed. If there is a retrain procedure for the windows, I'd love to hear it.

[Stickyfinger]

bump

[myglaren]

Raise the window - it may go up in stages but keep going until it reaches the top and KEEP THE BUTTON PRESSED for at least ten seconds with it at the top of it's travel.

[Stickyfinger]

It ONLY goes down ....takes about 30 clicks to make it move up a bit, then the next click it goes down again . AAAAGGG

( It runs very smooth and at the same speed as the other windows)

[addo]

You can erase the window memories with Diag/Lexia. That might be the go.

[Mandrake]

Had you both considered that your winder mechanisms are a bit seized and that could be the root cause of the problem ?

The ECU knows that the window has pinched on someone's arm by the increased current drain when the motor stalls, the learning process is so that the ECU learns how much current is normal movement and how much is the motor stalled. Repeatedly pressing up when it stops tells the ECU "no, really, this amount of current is still normal movement".

However it will only adapt so far, so if the current drain is excessive when moving due to friction then the ECU will keep thinking the motor is stalled and activating the anti-pinch system...

Perhaps some silicon stick on the side rail rubbers and some grease on the main mechanism is in order...(or a new motor if its the motor)

[RichardW]

I think this is a problem with the switch unit rather than the window - it is not unknown (our C4 does it on the passenger window from the driver's door sometimes). I imagine that if you get the Lexia on it you will be able to force the window up, and probably also see if the swtich unit is indeed sending the wrong signal. IIRC Chris (Citroenmad) had to change one on his C5 - not cheap though, at around £130 from Citroen....

[Stickyfinger]

£30 -£50 on ebay.....

Mk1 switches are NOT the SAME as Mk1 Facelift cars, circuit board is different....be warned.

Pug 306 switches (match the age) are the same and a bit cheaper on ebay.

You can change the colour of the outer trim, easy to swap over.

Looks like the door card has to come off to check then....bugger

[Mandrake]

I think this is a problem with the switch unit rather than the window - it is not unknown (our C4 does it on the passenger window from the driver's door sometimes). I imagine that if you get the Lexia on it you will be able to force the window up, and probably also see if the swtich unit is indeed sending the wrong signal. IIRC Chris (Citroenmad) had to change one on his C5 - not cheap though, at around £130 from Citroen....

Are the switches separate from any circuitry and connected with connectors like the Xantia ? If so a dodgy switch could be confirmed by unplugging the switches and using a croc lead to the correct (!) pins to operate the windows...

[addo]

There's two sets of controls in most multiplexed front doors; one is a large-ish box hanging off the window motor, the other is an integrated switch panel that clips into the door card.

I've got a 307 with no action on the window controls (yet you can drive them with Peugeot Planet) so interested to see what the outcome of a fix would be.

[dnsey]

The actual switches are very basic, similar to TV remote buttons.
With care, the unit can be dismantled and the printed contacts and conductive buttons cleaned.

[rodney]

ive got the problem too , have to flick the window switch a bit at a time , but if I turn wipers on the pass window randomly opens on its own lol,.

[dnsey]

IME, operating a window from Lexia overrides the anti-pinch etc, so won't help diagnose a sticky mechanism or over-sensitive controls. The motors seem to have some sort of thermal protection, though, which kicks in if they are asked to work too hard.

[Clogzz]

Have something like that with the driver’s side rear window.
It always works normally with the remote and the rear door’s button.
I suspect an intermittent wire in the driver’s door’s switch assembly.