La Dame Verte is now home.

[Old-Guy]

After nearly seven weeks, the 'Green Lady' (our treasured green Xantia 1.9sx estate) finally arrived back here on Friday (the engine started clattering south of Nantes on the A83 toll Autoroute on June 1st). Delivered in very smart and sophisticated enclosed 42T transporter + trailer - apparently repatriating breakdowns is the back-load on new car delivery trips across Europe. Very dusty but otherwise exactly as we abandoned her.

So while sensible people were enjoying the sun on Sunday, I 'dropped the sump' to investigate. Undertray off for a quick look - no real problem, just a couple of dozen cap-head set-screws to undo and the sump should drop off. Should have known it wouldn't be that easy: the flywheel cover plate and the oil temperature sender both have to come out, the pressure regulator loosened, and then the alternator removed (so idler and aux belt off!) just to be able to loosen the alternator and HP pump mounting bracket. Even with all the set-screws out, the sealant glueing the sump to the crankcase has to be cut every inch of the way round ( with long, narrow, thin, sharp paint scraper).

The crankshaft was at about 30°BTDC (2 & 3), so rotating it to TDC (2 & 3) brought big-ends 1 & 4 to BDC where they could be easily undone; no signs of damage (or significant wear) on shells or journals so put them back temporarily. So rotate another 180 to check 2 and 3; at about 5° BTDC (1) distinct resistance so something in either cylinder 1 or 4. Didn't have the time, or inclination at 4 p.m., to re-assemble the bottom end, so just put the sump back on so she could be parked outside (banished to the back of the parking lot) without getting a load of dust blown into the open crank-case.

I've been promised the use of the workshop next week-end. I'll be able to properly re-assemble the bottom end (20Nm + 70° on the big end nuts is a right PITA) and make a start on getting the head off. The engine would start and run on all 4 OK (apart from the awful clatter), so I'm just hoping the damage isn't significant (like a cracked head or piston), but that's definitely more hope than expectation as the 'foreign body' would have to be small and fairly soft. I've seen the results of a 3/16" UNF nut ingested into a big diesel - flat nut and a whole succession of indents into head and piston - ½" into 40 thou does not fit!

Problem then is, as I'll have to vacate the workshop again on Monday morning and the top engine mount bolts onto the head, how do I support the engine so the car can be towed about 50 yards?

Still (lucky) beggars can't be choosers.

[Gibbo2286]

I knocked up a support bar to hang my C5 HDI engine on from two roof rack bars, If you're anywhere near you can borrow it, I'm at Bream.

[CitroJim]

Guy, delighted she's home and looking forward to learning the true cause of her engine difficulties..

[Old-Guy]

Thanks for the bright idea, Gibbo, and for the offer, but Bream is a fair way from here by road, not neraly so far as the seagull flies.

Why didn't I think of that, and there's an ancient but robust pair of 'universal' bars (i.e. fit almost anything with gutters!) been hanging up in the cellar for decades since the Triumph 2000 had to go.

[Old-Guy]

Guy, delighted she's home and looking forward to learning the true cause of her engine difficulties..

You and me both, Jim. I can't escape a nagging suspicion that, despite great care, the 'foreign body' might have got into the inlet tract somewhere when I took the head off, though why it jumped out of hiding when and where it did after more than 1,200 miles is a bit of a mystery. We shall see.

I suppose I'll have to join the CCC now and come to a meet sometime.

[Jaf]

Hi guy. Glad you've got her back.

I haven't done big ends on this engine but I did have big ends let go on the motorway on a different engine. The new big ends then got loads of fuel on them due to a stuck fuel distributor and were damaged. Both sets didn't look that bad, which is my long winded way of saying I'd be tempted to try changing them!

Is the head gasket symmetrical? Some gaskets can go on the wrong way up which stops oil supply to the cam.

The only other thing I can think of is that a faulty injector can sound like big ends.

[Old-Guy]

Definitely piston 1 or 4 is hitting something, presumably between crown and cylinder head. From my (unenlightend) pre-Xantia days, I remember seeing the head from a N/A Berlingo where the combustion chamber insert had come loose (very nasty), I don't know whether it was an XUD or a DW8. Has anyone had an XUD9 drop an insert or indeed know if it's even possible? I'd have thought the glow-plug would have acted as a retainer.

I'm happy that the big ends look and feel fine and there's no visible difference between either 1 or 4 and the other three (which is why I can't tell which cylinder it is, though that's academic) - I've seen enough knackered crankshaft bearings (and journals) to know. IF (and that's quite a big if at the moment), I decide to repair this engine, then I might fit a new set of shells - about 10 minutes work at present.

[CitroJim]

Guy, I've seen one XUD9 that ingested a small piece of shrapnel from a botched attempt at an in-situ pump de-armouring job. That too took some few thousand miles before havoc was wreaked and what havoc..

Here's a couple of pictures...





This engine was written off but another head and piston and it would have been good... There was no bore damage and I was able to see the incredible over-engineering of the bottom end of an XUD.

[Old-Guy]

Ow NASTY! Though I've seen worse: holed and cracked pistons; bent and broken valves and seats. That's more or less what I expect to see, though I'm hoping it might come down to a new head. But assuming the next worst case to a wrecked engine, can anyone tell me with certainty:

• Are XUD9 pistons are interchangeable? (I'm of a generation where pistons usually came as matched sets and/or were 'graded' according to bore diameter.)
  Do the big ends pass up the bore? or
  Is it a matter of pushing a piston up to remove the gudgeon pin before dropping the rod out? or
  Does the crank-shaft have to come out to remove a rod.

It would be great deal less work to just swap out a piston+rod and head rather than change the whole engine.

Long, long ago I rebuilt a 1600cc 4-cylinder Porsche engine (an overgrown Beetle engine with which it actually shared some parts). A set of 4 cylinder barrels with a matched set of pistons and gudgeon pins and small end bearings plus a set of gaskets and seals - the finishes had to be seen to be believed (not a single ding or scratch anywhere on anything) - all packed in a very stout, and beautifully engineered box. Mind you it did cost £120, the price of a reasonable mini with an MoT and some tax! The complete rebuild was done single-handed in a week-end needing no more than the basic tool kit provided with the car (IIRC, 10mm hex key, 10, 13, 17 mm ring + OE screw-driver, and pliers!) supplemented with the same sized ½" sockets, a 6" extension and a ratchet that I carried in the car. To remove the engine and put it on the bench was under an hour's work single-handed with no hoist! Compare that with doing a timing belt change on an XUD! Or the Porche's comprehensive tool kit with my wide selection of spanners (every size from 8 to 21mm), set of flare-nut wrenches, various Torx and Hex bits plus adaptors, set of ¼" sockets, several ½" sockets and breaker bar that is my 'emergency tool kit' in the Xantias - and which is far short of hat's needed to change the cam belt, let alone remove and rebuild the engine. Such is progress in automotive design.

Mind you, it's probably impossible for even the most skilled DIY mechanic to rebuild any engine built in the last 5 years.

Don't even think of mentioning the Xantia's wonderful ride; the 356 soft supple suspension made for comfortable long distance touring (and rallying) on the diabolical roads of post-war Europe (even worse than England's roads of today). Mind you the handling (rear engine and swing-axles) wasn't for the faint-hearted.

[Northern_Mike]

Ow NASTY! Though I've seen worse: holed and cracked pistons; bent and broken valves and seats. That's more or less what I expect to see, though I'm hoping it might come down to a new head. But assuming the next worst case to a wrecked engine, can anyone tell me with certainty:

• Are XUD9 pistons are interchangeable? (I'm of a generation where pistons usually came as matched sets and/or were 'graded' according to bore diameter.)
  Do the big ends pass up the bore? or
  Is it a matter of pushing a piston up to remove the gudgeon pin before dropping the rod out? or
  Does the crank-shaft have to come out to remove a rod.

It would be great deal less work to just swap out a piston+rod and head rather than change the whole engine.

Long, long ago I rebuilt a 1600cc 4-cylinder Porsche engine (an overgrown Beetle engine with which it actually shared some parts).

I have actually rebuilt a beetle engine with pistons, heads and bores out in Brazil. I dropped the engine out onto a stolen shopping trolley I'd acquired and chopped the basket part off. The engine sat nicely on the base and could be worked on and wheeled around at will:-)

[Old-Guy]

Way back at the end of July, my retirement had to be curtailed and although I was 'only' working 4 days-a-week, I was only getting Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays off, thus preventing any big jobs (of any sort!).

With effect from last week, I'm now only working 2 or 3 half-days so on Saturday I was able to get the Green Lady into the workshop for the week-end. I'd forgotten what a big job it is to get the head off a 1.9 (XUD9) - finally off at a reasonable hour yesterday, but huge mystery - no damage at all - no signs of anything amiss even after I had cleaned pistons, head and block faces. I prepared myself for the idea of stripping the head to look for a broken valve spring. This morning, with the head on an old Workmate (the gap allows the valves to open safely) I removed the timing pin and turned it over by hand; I couldn't find a 'soft' valve-spring even when I pushed each bucket down with a piece of wood.

Much head-scratching, but I decided to get on with re-assembling the bottom end. First I carefully marked the crankshaft keyway's position (the struggle to fit the flywheel pin is too much of a fight). But when I went to re-tighten the big-end bolts I noticed that the crankshaft didn't seem to be quite at TDC.

Long story short: something small and hard had got under the belt causing it to jump one tooth. When I'd made a pin with a long arm (very effective, I'll post details) and fiddled it into position, my timing marks were 1 tooth out exactly. By which time there was only enough left of the day to remove the water-pump and start a good clean-up of joint faces.

All I've got to do now is to re-assemble most of the engine!

[Old-Guy]

Update.

The engine re-assembly was complete on Sunday - only one problem, no anti-freeze in stock in the workshop so any attempt at starting would have to wait.

First thing Wednesday morning I got a 5L can from the local motor factors. After lunch (early closing!) I mixed up 10L of 50:50 with distilled water (nothing but the best and we have dehumidifiers making several litres per week!) and filled and bled the cooling system. Primed the fuel system with the primer bulb, 'borrowed' the battery from the VSX, and tried to start her - bit dismayed that it took two lots of churning before she limped/lumped reluctantly into life.

Oh dear! But as she settled down to a normal tick-over, it dawned on me that the injectors had had to self-bleed after being drained. So nothing to worry about. I let her warm up while I encouraged the last of the air out of the cooling the system.

Stopped the engine and topped the oil up to the mark. The Green Lady was boxed in at the back of the workshop so I couldn't get her out; ABS light stuck on so that needed sorting before booking an MoT.

This afternoon (Friday) I got a chance to take her for a short test drive. Goes like a bird even with the tank 2/3 full and about 30Kg of tools in the boot. The ride is so much softer than the VSX (never got around to sorting the Hydractive suspension properly) and the extra weight helps too. The difference between the 1.9's 90bhp and the 2.1's 110 bhp (and the corresponding torque difference) is very noticeable and will be missed (but the 2.1 is so much harder to work on and ours has done nearly 196,000 miles); on the other hand we have been quite happy with the 1.9's performance for 6 years. The Green Lady's steering and handling is so much sharper, highlighting just how tired are the VSX's suspension bushes and joints. Interestingly, the 1.9 and the 2.1 are currently wearing each other's wheels/tyres so I'd have expected the 1.9's steering to be heavier not lighter - yet another thing that needed sorting on the 2.1.

Hopefully, the Green Lady will soon resume her proper place as our 'magic carpet'.

[Old-Guy]

Robbed the VSX of an ABS sensor on Sunday, booked an MoT for Wednesday pm (early closing) - passed with no advisories and just some back-handed comments about The Green Lady's condition and mileage.

This morning, swapped over the insurance and taxed her before washing off a bucket load of Saharan dust - cleaned the alloys (from the VSX) and she looks really good. Then cleared out the VSX, packing the essential gear tidily into The Green Lady. Lovely afternoon so I took the two ladies in my life for a 30 mile run across the Cotswolds. Needed to add a bit more coolant afterwards - last of the air had found its way into the header tank.

Of course there's still a list of things to do: tighten Aux Belt slightly, check Cam Belt tension (I'm now neurotic about correct tension!), fit new accelerator cable, find a another new air leak in the fuel system. But the really important thing is that we have our magic carpet back!