Scenic Work

[steelcityuk]

Hi All,

In preparation for the forth coming MOT I've been doing some jobs on the Scenic, plus other jobs to get it back into full working order.

The heater fan had a serious rattle that was driving me nuts so I bought a used one from eBay. Unfortunately it's a dash out job.


A faulty EGR was bringing up the engine management light and emissions fault warning. So a blanking plate was fitted, a remap to remove EGR function and finally a replacement valve/solenoid to keep the EMU happy. This is one EGR valve that won't clog up.

EGR valve, solenoid and manifold.


Replacement EGR valve and solenoid.


To fit a towbar the lights, bumper and bumper support bar have to be removed. It's a neat touch that there's a grommet in the shell that's removed to allow tightening of the one bolt that can't be accessed from the inside. The towbar is a second hand Witter that I've rubbed down (it only had a few spots of surface rust), given 2 coats of Hammerite Anti Rust Paint and 2 coats of Hammerite Silver.



The previous MOT had advisories for the track rod ends. Examining these also threw up a broken end coil on the front right spring.




Now the tracks rods are done it needs a tracking check. It also had advisories for rear disc wear, these are quite expensive due to the discs housing the wheel bearings and ABS strips. I'm waiting for parts to arrive.

Steve.

[lexi]

Very good. I seen pic of space in back. I like it as I have a heavy outboard motor and my VEL has a lip in boot......PITA!

[steelcityuk]

Thanks Lexi.

The discs and pads arrived in time for a weekend session. I was fortunate to get hold of a pair of new discs that had been bought in error and so the price was much better than buying over the counter. GSF want over £75 per disc which I'm assuming is because the discs carries the ABS strip and wheel bearing, god only know what Renault charge. A set of EBC pads from Ebay cost a very reasonable £13.

Both discs were very crusty on the rims and showing significant amounts of wear, presumably they're the originals. Tapping the rim of the discs to remove the crusty build up caused parts of the braking surface to flake off.




I've never seen flaking like this before, maybe I've just never owned a car with such knackered brakes.


The bleed nipples didn't want to unscrew and I didn't want to shear them off so I decided the best thing I could do would be to try removing the hydraulic pipe and get them on the bench. I carefully applied some heat to the caliper to help with this. Getting the calipers on the bench meant I could give them a good clean up and retract the piston more easily. I made up a piston retraction tool rather than struggle with pipe grips or a G clamp. Using some heat the bleed nipples came out but they are showing signs of bi-metal corrosion. The brake fluid that came out of the calipers was very dark so I think that it would be a good ideal to check the front brakes, maybe swap the front pads for new EBCs and do a full fluid change.


The caliper retaining brackets were removed, cleaned up and given a coat of Loctite Rust Remedy. Rebuilding the brakes didn't take long at all but I was careful to use the correct torque levels and locking compound. A smear of Copaslip should help keep things smooth. Bleeding the brakes rounded out the job.


Steve.

[lexi]

The welder can make all sorts of little tools to pull you out of a hole

I think there is lots of poor steel around nowadays with so much recycling.

That will be nice sorted car when you are done. I hope you get many miles from her.