Activa Boost Controller & Gauge

[DHallworth]

Right,

The other day I bought a manual ball and spring boost controller and a boost gauge for the Activa so that I can crank the power up a little until I get the V6 Conversion done on it.

I don't want the boost gauge to be a permanent fixture in the car as it's out of character but I would like it to be there for a week or two so that I can monitor what's going on until I'm happy that it's right.

Is there any way of getting the rubber pipe from the engine bay into the passenger compartment easily? I don't want to drill any holes and I don't want to have the window open every time I drive it as it's guaranteed to rain most of the time up here!!

I'd quite like to sit it down in the storage bin in front of the gear lever for now. If I can get the pipe into the car I don't see it being a problem getting it there temporarily.

Also, does anyone know the best place to plumb the boost gauge in to get a stable and accurate reading from it? Everywhere you look on the net you seem to read different things.

Thanks in advance!

David.

[DHallworth]

I'm having a dumb moment I think... I plumbed in the boost controller and took it for a run around the lanes here and the difference was huge and no matter how tight the screw was the ECU just didn't seem to be triggering the EML. However after looking at a post Dean made a while back and comparing the instructions that came with my controller I was convinced I had it the wrong way around so turned it around.

Here's the instructions:



I currently have the spigot marked "waste gate actuator" on the pipe that disappears down the back of the engine and the one marked "to turbo" connected to the pipe that goes into the connection just in front of the throttle body.

When flooring it the car takes off like a scalded cat, but now at high revs I get the EML light coming on however it doesn't seem to be affecting performance. After dropping off wide open throttle for a couple of seconds the light goes off and you can continue driving as normal.

I'm petrified of getting it wrong and damaging my engine. Although it will be coming out at some point it seems stupid to risk damaging a 50k mile TCT engine so any advice/suggestions/input you guys have would be more then welcome.

Thanks

David.

[Northern_Mike]

My uneducated guess from years of playing with Saab Turbos is that it's knocking/pinking at high revs because you've too much air going in. Back off the boost a bit until the EML doesn't come on, and I imagine it'll be ok. I could be wrong, but I suspect that the knock sensor is putting the EML on..

[DHallworth]

Mike,

I've got a feeling you're probably right. I just want to know for sure which way around this bloody controller goes before I start messing with it I guess.

The way I had it the first time made a huge difference to the performance and the EML didn't come on. Thing is though, tinkering with it didn't seem to bring it on either though.

This time it does seem to come on but it's not until at 5k rpm or above.

It's the first time I've ever fettled with the settings on the turbo so just want someone who might know a bit more then I do to confirm if I'm right or wrong, that's all.

David.

[Deanxm]

Hi David

Set the valve to 12psi using a compressor and guage, im sure you have one. de plumb the original ecu boost controller but leave the electrics connected to it and tuck it out of the way. The "to Turbo" port should be connected to the small bore pipe on the cold side of the intercooler that you unplugged from the ecu controller, the "to wategate Actuator" connects to the small bore pipe that dives down the back of the engine in the timing belt/fuel line area.

Cap the fitting on the alloy boost pipe upsteam of the turbo and connect your boost guage to one of the capped fittings downstream of the throttle body if you have the alloy inlet manifold.

Due to the pre programed boost threshold of 14psi on the ecu you will not hurt the engine no matter what you do but you should run the highest octane fuel you can to prevent knock, i should imagine as Mike says its knock thats your probllem.

Then all you need is the ecu chipped, a good intercooler and 15psi of boost to feel torque the V6 could only dream of..............spend your pennies on a nice new management system and a more leggy turbo and you will see a lot more power too , sorry i digress

D

[DHallworth]

Dean,

Here's a picture of my engine bay before I touched it today...



I have left the original solenoid plugged in, I unplugged the short pipe going into the black plastic tube at the back of the engine, shoved an M8 bolt in it and put the hose clamp back on it to stop that one leaking.

I now have the pipes laid out as you suggest so will keep fiddling and see what's going on.

In the picture on the alloy pipe that's running over the engine connected to the rubber pipe going to the intercooler there is a blanking plug where I believe a dump valve would go. Is it in that port you'd put the boost gauge?

Once again, apologies for acting thick, it's something I genuinely know very little about I'm afraid.

David.

[Deanxm]

Hi David

No such thing as a stupid question!!!
The blanked port on the alloy pipe over the engine is for a D/Valve as is the matching blank on the black plastic inlet pie over the back of the engine, a stock bosch recirc can be found on a Saab eco something engine and will sharpen you throttle response and relieve you of the fluttering noise caused by the shock wave coming back from the thottle and stalling the turbo as it slams shut, not harmfull really but sounds chavy and as said dumbs down throttle response a tad.
The boost guage should be connected between the throttle housing and the cylinder head, on the alloy inlet it has fittings perfect for this but on the plastic inlet im not so sure they exist so yu may have to make do with any fitting you can find on the boost sside of the turbo DONT 'T' IT OFF ANY SENSORS OR VALVES like map sensor etc etc.

I understand you dont like the boost guage but you will have to tweek the boost as atmospheric conditions change if you want to run it near the max allowed by the stock ecu so its handy to keep plumbed in, many nice flush fitting guages are available if you want to be discrete. This is why i stuck with the in car bleed type controller.
I see in the other thread you were pointed to an overboost fault, make sure the ecu is coming to this conclusion through an actual overboost situation rather than pinking/knock.

D

[Deanxm]

Actualy you WILL have a small blanked fitting on the inlet manifold to connect your boost guage to, it would be there to provide a vacuume to the D/Valve on a trailing throttle to open it so have a good look around. If all else fails i have an alloy inlet manifold.

What do you think of the tct running as it should of been then without that horrible power killing boost control setup that came stock? i found even without extra boost it was a lot sharper and had much more low end torque.

D

[DHallworth]

Thanks Dean,

You don't have any pictures of how yours was set up do you?

Is there an easy way of getting the pipe for the boost gauge into the car? Am I right in thinking from what you've said above there's something between the throttle body and the cylinder head to connect the pressure gauge to?

Part of me thinks it is the knocking that was causing it to put the EML light on as last time I felt it cut the spark due to overboost you felt it instantly drop the power, this time it didn't, it only put the light on. The power wasn't reduced at all and it didn't need a restart to cure it.

Feeling pretty daft at the moment as this doesn't make a huge amount of sense lol.

David.

[Deanxm]

Ive got some underbonnet shots i will find, hang on just a tick.

D

[Deanxm]

David My bloody phone battery is dead and i have left the charger at work, like an idiot. tried turning it back on to let you know but it wasnt happening.
I will give you a ring tomorrow if you want, would be nice to chat citroens again mate.

D

[DHallworth]

Sounds great Dean, a massive thanks again for your pointers.

Am sure the controller is plumbed in the right way this time, will get the boost gauge connected tomorrow and get a proper look at what's going on.

David.

[DHallworth]

Just had a thought... My car doesn't have a sunroof so hopefully if I can find the hole that the sunroof drains come through I can maybe get the pipe for the boost gauge through into the car.

It's a shame nobody has come up with an RF boost gauge yet. One end could plug into the cigar lighter socket or any other 12v source and the other end a 12v source under the bonnet.

It'd solve all problems with getting pipes into the car without crimping them!

David.

[Deanxm]

next best thing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elite-10-Colo ... 5d3cb2d250" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; bit expensive though.

D

[DHallworth]

My controller and gauge cost less then that!

Bit more then I'd be willing to spend on it I think!

Some XM's had boost gauges on them... Shame the Activa didn't have it.

David.