Citroen C5 Hub Nut

[411514]

Took the car for an MOT yesterday. Failed on a front brake imbalance (probably a dodgy nearside caliper which I had suspected for a while), and on a damaged CV boot.
I intend to replace the driveshaft complete as I have a new genuine Citroen one and it saves all the hassle and messing around out on the cold pavement.

Before I start does anyone know the size of the driveshaft/hub nut on this as I may need to buy a new socket, Thanks for help, Sam.

[addo]

1 3/8" from memory. 35mm otherwise.

[411514]

Cheers for quick reponse Addo. I had suspected (and was hoping) it would be 35mm as I already have a 35mm impact socket.
Sam

[411514]

In terms of replacing the hub nut after changing driveshaft how critical is it that the exact torque be applied to the nut.
The specified torque far exceeds the range of my torque wrench. Is it acceptable to either use an impact wrench to retorque the nut or a breaker bar and long extension, or is it worth slipping a friendly garage mechanic a few beer token to retorque it,
Cheers Sam

[Hell Razor5543]

If you have a long breaker bar, a tape measure, some sticky tape, a calculator, an assistant and you know your weight at that time (so weigh yourself before you start, dressed as you intend to do the work), it is do-able. If you weigh 200lb, and the required torque is 200lb feet, then measure 1 foot from the socket end of the breaker bar and mark it with the tape. Get your assistant to hold the bar onto the socket, and then (carefully) stand on the bar. When you find that (with the bar horizontal) it will no longer move, you are pretty close to 200lb feet of torque.

To calculate the distance needed, divide the required torque by your weight. This gives you a decimal value of the distance. The whole number is the feet. To complete the calculation multiple the remainder by 1.2, and this will give you the inches needed.

[411514]

Cheers for that technique James. Seems to be my best option, Sam

[Hell Razor5543]

Make sure you put your weight as close to the marker tape as possible.

I was told this by RichardW on the forum when I found I had to undo the nuts on Gracies' front hubs (to replace the reluctor rings for the ABS system).

I copied this from a different post, and this is RichardWs' advice;

You can set the hub nut torque fairly reliably without a torque wrench. First, weigh yourself

Now, If you work in imperial units....
convert your weight in stones to pounds. Divide the required torque in lbf ft by your weight (eg I am 220 lbs, so for the Xantia that's just over 1 based on a torque of 236 lbf ft) this is the distance in feet you need to apply your weight to the breaker bar to get the required torque - provided the bar is horizontal. Nip the nut up, then arrange it so the breaker bar is horizontal. Now stand (carefully!) with all your weight on the breaker bar at the appropriate length, and you will apply the correct torque. If the nut rotates more than a few degrees, then re-set it horizontal and repeat until you get no movement when standing on the bar. Don't jump up and down, just apply your weight steadily.

If you work in metric, then the length in metres is arrived at by multiplying your weight in kg by 10, then dividing the torque by the this number, which gives you the length in meters (in my case, I'm 100 kg, so 320Nm / 1000 N = 0.32m - near enough a foot as above )

[flying clutchman]

wow! And all these years I've just been putting a jack handle on the end of my3/4 drive t-bar and giving an almighty tug.

[CitroJim]

wow! And all these years I've just been putting a jack handle on the end of my3/4 drive t-bar and giving an almighty tug.

Me too. I just do them up FT with my small breaker and that's always been fine..

I do, as James knows, have an almighty breaker bar for removing them though....

[spider]

wow! And all these years I've just been putting a jack handle on the end of my3/4 drive t-bar and giving an almighty tug.

Me too. I just do them up FT with my small breaker and that's always been fine..

I do, as James knows, have an almighty breaker bar for removing them though....

I'll admit I used to wind them up with an airgun although that's not an option anymore.

FT within reason is OK, I doubt you'd damage the threads you really would have to overdo it. Rear's I used to torque though (drum braked models)

Lately I've obtained a large length of scaffolding pole to 'assist' where needed with tightening them up.

[411514]

For completeness and for anyone searching this topic in the future, the nut is indeed 35mm. Came off perfectly easily using a breaker bar with box steel extension and was retightened in the same way, Sam

[zs&tas]

are the front hubs adjustable ? can i nip em up and remove play ?

[daviemck2006]

I had a bit of play in mine and thought at first it may be the wheelbearing, and tightened it a bit using the weigh myself method and got nearl 1/2 a turn on the nut. I think it is somewhere in the region of the correct torque now, at least it is FT!!!!!! It reduced the play a bit but did not eliminate it, but passed MOT on that. And a facelift C5 2.0 hdi is 35mm.

[zs&tas]

ok thanks, ill give it ago

[Peter.N.]

I just do mine up tight.