Tackling Xantia Ball Joints

[ecohouse1]

Hello Folks

My 1999 TD Estate has failed on excessive play on both NS & OS balljoints. After the test checked them out & there is clunk from them and visible movement when pulling at quarter to 3.

I have ordered the Lemforder joints and the removal tool plus the 35 mm deep socket for them. Will tackle the job in a couple of weeks. I was looking for peening on them but could not see it. Where is the peening usually? Can you dril it out? I am planning doing the job in situ.

I have a 6ft length of scaffold pole and plan on strapping the hub with a ratchet and commercial webbingto hold it while I exert the force. Also plan a bit but not too much heat before starting.

Any tips? Also I presume they are normal threads ie anti clockwise to loosen?

Remember trying some BX ones a few years back and having to give up although did not have the tool then.

Cheers

Alan

[Jim2.0Hdi]

Recently did the ball joints on my 2.0HDi, both needed lots of heat - cherry red actually - to get them off. Luckily I had use of the FIL's garage which made the job a lot easier than it would otherwise have been.

Allow plenty of time
If original fitment there will be peening, look carefully. If the car is on it second set then who knows but look carefully anyway.
Allow plenty of time.
If possible have oxyacetylene heat on standby.
Allow plenty of time.
Ideally a two man job as the extra pair of hands will come in very useful. Tea boy?
And, I might have mentioned this before, allow plenty of time ..... there's nothing more frustrating than not having enough time.

Standard threads btw.
Good luck

[addo]

They can be removed solo using an air gun and the Sealey type socket. Wear eye protection; not sure how good the metallurgy is for the adaptor socket.

[ecohouse1]

Thanks for the info. I have a windy gun and 50 litre compressor. Will try this first after lots of heat. Have found in the last that the gun struggles with first "crack" of the nut as its 250 ft/pd max. Will check carefully for peening though. I have been caught out before. Hope they are not originals. The protector looks a bit buckled, like it has been off before.

[davetherave]

Good luck I did one on the Xm the other day, nice quick couple of hours type job, only took all day. Had to take the whole damn hum assembly off!

[Chris570]

Good luck I did one on the Xm the other day, nice quick couple of hours type job, only took all day. Had to take the whole damn hum assembly off!

Have to say I don't even bother trying with it on the car, with the hassle i've had with these in a vice, on the car seems a bit of a lost cause

[addo]

Hoist is the go.

[411514]

Definitely use an impact gun. I recently did the job, the first balljoint I did I used a breaker bar and long extension and struggled with it until eventually it came off. Tryed the same on the other side and it just wouldnt shift it. I only have a little 12v clarke impact wrench but one blow with that on the balljoint and it came straight off. Should be peened at least in one spot, the collar of the balljoint is folded over and latches against an indent in the hub moulding (c5 at least), Sam

[DHallworth]

Have to say I don't even bother trying with it on the car, with the hassle i've had with these in a vice, on the car seems a bit of a lost cause

Have to say I completely agree with this. For the extra few minutes it takes to get the hub on and off it's not even worth trying with it on the car.

If you're going to remove the hub then best practice is to replace the lock nuts on the track rod ends etc too.

David.

[ecohouse1]

If I take the hub off what is the best way to deal with the ABS sensor. I am scared of breaking this.

Think I will break the peen then try some heat on the thread area then take the windy gun to it while on the car and if that does not work then take the hub off.

I have a big vice but its in a small shed with not much room for large bars strapped on to my 1/2" socket bar (18 inch long)

Why did they not adopt the Xsara ball joint with the 3 bolts folding it to the suspension arm. That took me half an hour and I was drinking a cup of tea at the time!!

I remember with the BX ball joints struggling to get a garage here to take it and eventually took the whole hub in and he took it off with oxy torch!

Cheers

Alan

[DHallworth]

If you take the hub off the car with the abs sensor still in situ but with the multi plug disconnected, turn the hub round and you can gently tap the sensor out of the hub. Don't try and pull it from the top or it'll break.

David.

[evilally]

MAPP gas and a bit of scafold

[jgra1]

yep Sam is right re the peening

Must admit, I have only ever tackled these on my own, on the car usually about 10 mins each side, once the wheel is out of way etc.. And I have never used the special tool...

I am always ready to remove the hubs etc, but have never had to..

Normally I unpeen, split the joint (for clearance reasons), get my large stilsons to grip the thin area of the joint, attached scaffolding, and pull gently but stubbornly with 6foot leverage.. always works.. once the first few degrees are done it's plain ish sailing.

John

[CGATCX25GTITURBO]

10 mins appropriate chisel and 2lb hammer sorts the peened over lip too, 1st or 2nd crack then spin it by hand. Then I undo the nut holding it to the lower arm and pop it off with a splitter. i put it back together using the proper tool and peen it back over.

[Lighty]

For the really tight ones,I weld a driveshaft nut to the ballpoint after slipping it over the hub, the heat from the mig welder guarantees removal in a few moments with the power tool. Never had to remove a hub yet, my vice isn't that good anyway