Xantia suspension& clutch clip

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Bodger
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Xantia suspension& clutch clip

Post by Bodger »

Hi
Still debating whwether to buy a Xantia T reg 1.9TD decision time today.
Researching this, seems recurring problems are plastic clutch clip. suspension and Brake / pad tyre wear excessive.
The last two I am used to with the ZX! how ever the previous 2 are a concern.
1. Can you get a metal clutch clip?
2. Why are there different settings for the suspension? and how can I check this works on the car i am looking at? When should you change the settings?
3.Is the suspension likely to go at 60,000 miles and also the timing belt. Dealer says not to be replaced until 72000 mile service)
4.thasnks for readfing this far
RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

1. Can you get a metal clutch clip?
Not as far as I know, unless you make it yourself! The clip failing is a sign that the clutch is too heavy which is caused by either the cable or the clutch itself. The clip is reportedly a git to change, but ignore the doom mongers who say you need to strip the dash out. Most DIYers rekon on about 2 hours, even if you have to saw the clutch pedal bolt off - Citroen throughtfully fitted it so that it won't come out past the brake pedal!
2. Why are there different settings for the suspension? and how can I check this works on the car i am looking at? When should you change the settings?
Ah, hydropneumatic suspension - simply the best! It will mostly outlast the car if looked after reasonably well. As you're only looking at 60k / 3 years there should be no problems as all. Biggest trouble on early cars (is pre Xantia) was pipes rusting out. New cars use plastic coated pipes that largely prevent this problem.
There are 4 heights: low (workshop use only - or washing the roof!), normal, medium (use with care for negotiating rough obstacles) High (for wheel changing only, or with EXTREME caution negotiating very rough ground). Things to look out for:
1. From low, the car should rise to high smoothly, and without any groaning or creaking noises (particularly from the front). It should then settle back to normal when the lever is moved quite easily, again with no groaning.
2. Push down on each corner of the car - it should appear IMPOSSIBLY soft - about 6" or more of easy movement. If not new spheres are probably in order
3. With engine running, lean hard on the front and hold the car down, after a few seconds it should push you back up. Let go and it should spring up in the air, then after a few seconds settle back to normal. Same at rear (just sit on the boot lip!). If not, height correctors are suspect. At normal there should be about 70mm between the top of the tyre and bottom of the front wheel arch, and the sills should be about level. If not this suggest something is out with the settings, and the car is probably best avoided.
4. suspension flud (LHM) should be changed every 36,000 miles - check it's been done and the fluid in the reservoir (rear RH of engine bay as you face it) is bright (and I mean BRIGHT!) green
5. Listen to the car with the engine idling. You should hear an occasional hisss-tick. This is the suspension repressuring. This should not occur more than about every 30s, if it does, suspect the accumulator is duff.
6. A 99 car will be fitted with antisink, which should keep the suspenion up for 3 - 5 days after the engine last ran. If you go to the car and it has been run recently and the suspension is starting to sink there are problems - not that this is bad, it just means you have to wait a while for it to pump up in the morning.
7. The ride (the whole point!) should be like nothing else you've been in. Just like a magic carpet. If it feels choppy or bouncy, then there is something wrong (height, spheres, bushes etc)
8. The brakes are power operated, and discs all round. Expect it to 8stop like nothing else (although I understand ABS removes some of the on/off fell of previous hydraulic cit brakes).
9. There should obviously be no LHM leaks look underneath after a run, around each of the wheels and in the centre at the front and rear for obvious signs - I doubt there'll be any, but worth checking.
3.Is the suspension likely to go at 60,000 miles and also the timing belt. Dealer says not to be replaced until 72000 mile service)
See above for whether the suspension is likely to 'go'. Timing belt change is about £150 - £200, new engine £2000. Take your choice - you might convince the dealer to do it as part of the deal! At 60k and 3 years old I would be thinking about it - I used to get mine done (BX TD) at 45k miles.
HTH you chose the best suspension system there is. Bar none! If you look after it, it will look after you.
Richard
Bodger
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Post by Bodger »

Thanks for that Richard, I appreciate your time!
I'll go back and test those items before I decide
pwatson
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Post by pwatson »

Bodger,
If it's any consolation we had an L reg Xantia 'til this summer (90,000 miles) and the clutch clip never went. It had one new set of tyres on the back and 2 sets on the front. I always think it is wise to change cambelts every 50,000 miles - your local bloke will do it for less than £100 - thats about £20 - £25 per year and may save you £1000. My wife has driven Cits with hydro suspension for the last 15 years and has never had cause to change the suspension height! And I'm afraid that I ain't no mechanic and the most I ever did to it was change the oil every 5000 miles and top up washer bottle occasionally. My major mechanical achievement was to unblock the rear screen washer! It was an annoyingly reliable car!!! So much so that when my wife wanted a change ("I'd like a silver car now, not a blue one"!!) we bought another Xantia
PhilW
Phil
pwatson
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Post by pwatson »

Oops - sorry, new front disks at about 70,000 miles as well.
Phil
spanners
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Post by spanners »

THERE WAS APLASTIC CLIP ON YOUR ZX BUT THEY DONT SEEM TO SNAP AS MUCH AS XANTIAS THEY ARE AWKWARD TO CHANGE EVEN MORE SO ON MARK 2 XANTIAS BECAUSE OF DIRTY GREAT SPRING IN MIDDLE OF PEDALS.
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