Dreaded front suspension rattle, HDI 110

[harryp]

Hi all,
I have a rattle on the off side driving on roughish road surfaces at 40+.... but silent on a smooth surface. It was there before the last MOT in November which it sailed through. I was hoping they would tell me what it was as I couldn't find it and still not being able to find it is driving me "doolally". I have checked and rechecked all ball joints and the drop links are recent. The noise disappears when cornering reasonably enthusiastically(wot, at 40!), but the track rod ends feel ok and I cannot feel any play in the rack. It seems to be related to something that side pressure damps out. Only other thought; could it possibly be related to the lower arm rubber joint thingies and if so what do I check? The Xant is such a rattle and creak-free car that this really bugs me, and I really do not like rattles from underneath as I am always wondering what the hell is about to fall off. As far as I can tell it doesn't affect the handling right up to the limit. Off to the Dales next week so will be driving in gentle touring mode as wifey will be carrying loaded handbag! Then back underneath to do height correctors and fix this problem if it can be identified...??
Cheers, Harry.

[Peter.N.]

Hi Harry

How recently have the drop links been replaced? The quality of most of them seems very poor now, I have replaced them on my 406 twice in two years, the rubber boots fail and let the water in and grease out. Its difficult to detect wear unless you disconnect them, you can usually feel the movement in track rod ends though by moving the wheel. The only other possibility I can think of would be the anti roll bar bushes but the drop links are the most likely culpret.

Peter

[RichardW]

As Peter says cheap drop links are rubbish. You can get Lemforder ones from carparts4less for not too much more.

High suspension can mask play in a TRE, so check with the wheel on the floor in normal height.
Bottom ball joint play can be hard to detect with the arm on, so split the joint and then check.
As it's a 110, try just nipping the handbrake on when it is making the noise - the pads can rattle - there is a fix for this, but it's not that cheap (even if still available!).
Wishbone bushes a possibility - if you'v split the bottom BJ then you can check to see how much play there is.

I fitted a new Lemforder link to mine a while back, but it still rattles - as yours, nothing on the MOT

[harryp]

Hi Peter,
Thank you for your response. Replaced o/s droplink 7K ago just in case, but has made no difference. Will try n/s, but sure it is on the o/s. The originals lasted 96K. It's a deeper thump but not quite lower ball joint - I think! Cannot find movement anywhere so thought I would ask the cognoscenti!! Have been playing with cars for 45 years but can't fathom this one. Perhaps I should get out more? Ta again...
Harry

[harryp]

Richard, Thanks..... hadn't thought of the handbrake trick! Will look at splitting the lower b/j and check tre in normal height - again!!! Thanks,
Harry.

[citroenxm]

As it's a 110, try just nipping the handbrake on when it is making the noise - the pads can rattle - there is a fix for this, but it's not that cheap (even if still available!).

Anti rattle springs MISSING from the ends of the pads.?? The 110 / V6 Pads have in built anti rattle coil type springs however, I found dooing the last ones they can come away easilly... if that was over looked they could be the rattle..

The spring is on the top Eyelet of the pads, possibly easyer to find if you swing the calliper up out the way (one 13mm nut) release hand brake cable swing up

[rory_perrett]

I had a rattle that I was convinced was coming from the front offside. No play in anything, straight pass at MOT despite telling the tester that I had a knock and could he have an extra good look. Turned out to be the nearside drop link! Couldn't feel any play when it was on the car, but could feel a slight movement in one of the joints once it was off.

Rory

[harryp]

Guys,
Pads tight and no change using handbrake. Split lower ball joint and is tight to move, no play discernible. Top turret nut just moved on o/s, n/s ok. Next job will to be wedge bonnet so it is very tight on latch and replace the n/s drop link. Clutching at straws!! Update on speed, worse between 20 and 30 mph, not 40 as I thought. Aarrgggghh! Next session on Thursday!

[DHallworth]

I had this problem on our Xantia HDi.

I replaced everything on the front other then the lower ball joint and it still rattled. I then used the assumption it must be that and it can wait as it wasn't a job I particularly wanted to do.

I was then doing an OSF wheel bearing and did the ball joint whilst I was in there. It has halved the rattle I was getting and it feels a much tighter car to drive. There is still a little rattle there so I knew that the NSF also needed doing. This was confirmed at MOT as it's now the only ball joint on the front end that has a little play in it.

A ball joint can feel really tight by hand but when you add the weight of a car onto it then you can find it does make noises. I started with the easy stuff first. Drop links were done, then track rod ends, I even did the track rod itself on our Xantia. Euro Car Parts also sell the Lemforder ones. I wouldn't use anything else tbh as they are the OE spec ones.

Regards

David.

[addo]

Were.

Plenty of their stuff is now made in China. Reckon it's still that red-hot?

[harryp]

David, looks like that will be next then, as there's little else to try. Just have to trust that they are not Chinese Addo!!

[addo]

I fitted Taiwanese balljoints as an experiment. 25000 kilometres of brutality and they are showing light wear only - the ZFs I removed were well dead.

ZF/Lemförder also have a plant in Spain that appears to take up excess capacity on demand; I've had same boxed balljoints from two sources. Not saying the stuff is dreck, more that I believe it's worth being open-minded about source vs quality. Valeo are the same; a trusted French name that now makes clutches in Korea, condensers in Poland and thermostats in Spain...

Alfisti generally recognise TRW as excellent for aftermarket suspension, and I think they were one of the original suppliers of silentbloc/forged suspension items for the Xantia. I'll know by next week if they're dropped the ball on Citroënistes.

[HDI]

Failed drop links are visible even. Look at the ends, if the end is out of line with the attachment to the AR bar it's had it's day. If you do need new ones, go for Delphi, they seem to be better than most pattern ones. The other potential culprit could be strut tops.

[harryp]

Drop links both seem fine. How would you check strut tops? Is it a dismantle job? The top nut is tight, strut gaiters on tight and no sign of corrosion, but is that enough.... really would rather not have fashionable goochy bonnet bulges!

[BX]

Check the front subframe mounting bushings. They can cause a knock.