Xantia Clutch Change Book Time/Cost

[ecohouse1]

I have been trying to decide whether or not to tackle changing the clutch on the Xantia TD 1.9, as the pedal is heavy and I am getting judder on take-up.

What would I expect to pay for getting this changed? Saw an old Car Mechanics mag I had which quoted 7 hours

I remember getting my BX 1.7 TGD done and it wasn't much more than £180 at the time (10 years ago)

Anyone had one done recently?

[citronut]

i usualy charge £240 plus parts,

regards malcolm

[Rhothgar]

That's a fair price Malcolm.

One of my mate's staff at his garage quoted me approx. £540 including parts.

In the end I got mine done for around £300 with genuine 3 piece clutch kit.

It wasn't a job I would like to have tackled not without taking the engine out. Must be a nightmare to do with engine in.

[citroenxm]

BX one MUCH easyer, as it was a push clutch. The TD uses a "Pull Clutch".. this means you HAVE to remove the pin from the release arm on the gearbox so the release fingers will come out from behind the release bearing inside the bell house.

The Pin can be a RIGHT mare to get out too!!!

[Ratheram]

Always go for a genuine LUK, Sachs or Valeo clutch. Isnt worth the hassle fitting any other type as its a big job, you dont want the 'box out too soon again!

[CitroJim]

Always go for a genuine LUK, Sachs or Valeo clutch.

Wise words

[charentejohn]

I didn't know who Valeo were but their parts are on most parts web sites here in France.
Seems they were originally Ferodo (brakes mainly in my younger days) but now gone international as Valeo doing all sorts of car parts.
When I first saw the name I ignored it as I assumed it was a.n.other manufacturer but did buy some parts as all that were on offer. All good quality so I learned something and can now buy here knowing they are local and good quality. Good to know as I think I will be due a new clutch in the next couple of years.

[citronut]

im 99% sure Valeo are and were never anything to do with Ferodo , not heard that before,

Valeo parts have been fitted to PSA cars for as far back as i can remember,

we also used to avoid using Ferodo brake pads on hydraulic citroens as the pad material was far to hard and used to cause brake judder,

the pads we used to recommend were Texstar as the material they used was full of copper flakes and PSA used to fit them as OE equipment

regards malcolm

[addo]

All of these brands are now rubber stamps.

Every manufacturer works on the premise of "We set the quality level, and suppliers can tender against that requirement".

The boxed Quinton Hazell idler pulley I bought last week, is a Dayco (Italy) product - it says so in the moulding!
I have Lemförder parts made in three different countries - Germany, Spain and China.
Valeo make stuff in Poland, France, Korea and probably other countries like Spain and Portugal.
The AL4 solenoids I have as spares, are made in China for PSA.

Thirty years ago, we knocked "Jap Crap". Now I have seen (for example) crank bearings so good from their factories, it makes you want to cry - just utterly perfect. Europe is no longer the sole source of good gear, and eventually when China realises there is more money in better consistency - we will respect their products unilaterally.

[charentejohn]

I think you are both right ?
I got the Ferodo connection fro Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valeo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which says they distributed their parts under that name, rather than being part of Frerodo, my misreading of the article.

It is true that most parts these days, and in the past it seems, are usually only licensed rather than made by a particular brand name. I reckon the old days of manufactures with their own factories everywhere manufacturing parts are gone.
Most now seem to put their name on products they have made anywhere and everywhere.

Not a bad thing as long as they control the quality of what they put their name to.
I don't have a problem with who makes them as log as they are good quality, I assume Valeo are as they seem popular.

Often it is one factory making parts under several names. I remember a friend saying he believed elctronics parts from Japan were often allocated as follows. One factory makes a part, the prestige local companies buy those above specification so their products are reliable and good quality. Good companies buy those in specification and cheaper companies buy the ones which are below spec but still saleable, may not last but very cheap.

I guess the moral is buy from one of the first two companies

[citronut]

it seems you don't know what your buying these days,

there was a program on the box just last night about counterfeit Nike trainers coming into the country buy the lorry load,

regards malcolm

[Rhothgar]

The Pin can be a RIGHT mare to get out too!!!

Those weren't the words CitroJim used when I needed advice on getting THAT pin out the other week.

Nasty job! I would hate to try and go the job in-situ.

[jgra1]

the best I achieved was 3 hours on a xant.. although I could have spent more time afterwards tidying up some bits..

I did a 206 last month and took over 10 hours, a struggle with the itntermediate bearing and the hubs..

I asked for 200 inc Valeo clutch! but she gave me another 50, which I was thankful for..
The job is pretty straightforward, until you are at the reffiting stage.. when the first bell housing bolt goes in it's a champange moment, especially if working on your own
a crane can help a bit, or an extra pair of hands..

[citronut]

i don't know what i used to do before buying my engine/gear box support beam, its uc king magic,

this sits in the rain channel's on the inner wings and has two adjustable hooks, one the hang the engine and the other for the gear box,

regards malcolm

[jgra1]

good thinking Malcolm

the crane legs get right in the way, under the car, just where you need to be..