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Is it "man enough" to remove rear spheres ?
The software control of these transmissions is fairly complex, but there are two main (and largely independent) sets of algorithms. The first is the auto-adaptive map selection which selects one of a set of maps which control the transmission change points, based mainly on the recent usage of the accelerator and brake. Each map contains fixed values, the adaption is achieved by selection of map. Sport and Snow modes are just 2 of the maps.Mandrake wrote: I was trying the sport mode a bit today, certainly makes a hell of a difference, does the sport mode have any auto adaptive learning behaviour as well ?
Yes the snow mode skips first gear and has low change points for the other gears.Mandrake wrote: I was trying the sport mode a bit today, certainly makes a hell of a difference, does the sport mode have any auto adaptive learning behaviour as well ?
I'm also interested to know how the snow mode works, (owners manual is missing) I understand that it skips 1st gear and starts off in 2nd gear (certainly feels like it) but does it also remap the shift points and clutch operation ?
With the exception of the lock-up clutch in the torque convertor, the clutches are not intended to slip at all during normal operation, and are on/off devices, but during gear changes, the ECU controls the interval between one set of clutches being released and the next set engaged.Mandrake wrote:(Not sure if that box has electronically controlled variable slip clutches or not)
Ok good to know. I've ordered one from the guy so we'll see what happens. Tried the band spanner on one of the front spheres - broke first time I used it.lexi wrote:That is the one I have here. Can't remember if it goes on to all the spheres but is ok. I think I welded some more on to it for bracing.
Ah I see. I thought it might be something like the headlight washershirsty wrote:The smaller stalk below is for the cruise control. There is a switch on the dash with an arrow on it. Press this then lift the small stalk gently to engage the cruise control. Lifting the stalk increases the speed, pushing down reduces it. Pulling towards you disengages it and is re-engaged by lifting again. It also disengages if you touch the brakes.
What part is normal behaviour ? The alarm going off ?RichardW wrote:That's normal alarm behaviour Simon![]()
Ah ok, tried that and I can hear it. My previous Xantia didn't have an alarm and was a Mk1 with the single button plip, so there was no way to activate the deadlock from the plip, that I knew about anyway, however turning the key to lock and holding it for a couple of seconds did activate the deadlocks.If you press the lock button a second time, the car will deadlock itself too.
Thanks for that, I'll keep it in mind although I'm trying not to drive too far on dead flat rear spheres, so I'm doing essential trips only until they are sorted out. No, the book is not in the fuse flap.If you want to pop down the road to Lanark, you are welcome to borrow the manual for my MK2 - if I can find it (ah actually I think it's in the car.... worth a check that yours is not in the handy pocket in the flap over the fuses above the driver's knee....).
To be pedantic, the heated seats, headlight washers and heated screen washers are part of the Winter pack (which seems to be fitted to all MK2 Exclusives in the UK, but not, for instance, in France).hirsty wrote:Headlight washers work automatically when headlights are on and you use the screenwashers. It's part of the comfort pack i.e. heated seats, cruise control, heated washer jets and headlight washers.![]()
True, but Mandrake says he can hear the relay when touching the brake, so in this case his brake switch should be OK. Just trying to reduce the risk of breaking something that doesn't need fixing.DickieG wrote:Re the cruise control it's worth removing the brake pedal rubber and cleaning the contacts on the brake pedal switch's, for models with cruise there is a separate switch built into the pedal specifically for cruise, common fault.