electrical problem causing battery light to come on

[DublinChris]

Have just experienced a new problem with electrics. Basically getting a "buzzing" type sound from around steering column on my series 2 Xantia that coincides with battery light glowing and radio muting. This seems to be happening when I use indicator stalk and also try wiper stalk. I have noticed that if I bang top of housing over steering that light goes out - radio comes back and everything works fine again. I also noticed a couple of times that if I switched ignition on and there was no battery light showing at start up - that if I bang housing the light comes on ok and I start car normally.
Every thing else seems to operate ok when buzzing/light is on it just seems to be the 2 stalks that highlight the problem with the noise - almost like something sticking. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Chris

[spider]

306's used to suffer with failing indicator stalks they would buzz alarmingly due to the switch contacts going intermittent and the relay working overtime. You might have something similar (that was my first thought) then I re-read your post:

The fact the battery light comes on means its lost the "2" position from the ignition switch. "1" remains which will keep the light on. I would guess your ignition switch is burning out internally which will cause this. I'd be tempted to bypass it temporarily to test it as it does sound just like a failing switch. There's a couple of plugs a short distance away from the switch itself or you could just grab one (with key as its part of one unit) from the scrapyard to test ?

[DublinChris]

306's used to suffer with failing indicator stalks they would buzz alarmingly due to the switch contacts going intermittent and the relay working overtime. You might have something similar (that was my first thought) then I re-read your post:
It does sound like a relay sticking and then this is causing some type of temp muting of radio when battery light starts to come on. Then by banging housing over steering it seems to free up relay and all is back working again.

The fact the battery light comes on means its lost the "2" position from the ignition switch. "1" remains which will keep the light on. I would guess your ignition switch is burning out internally which will cause this. I'd be tempted to bypass it temporarily to test it as it does sound just like a failing switch. There's a couple of plugs a short distance away from the switch itself or you could just grab one (with key as its part of one unit) from the scrapyard to test ?

[spider]

As above , I suspect the ignition switch itself is burning its contacts, this will 'buzz' in some cases.

[DublinChris]

Hi back again!
Yes ignition switch is the problem other than main dealer is it possible to buy replacement or is it a case of going to scrap yard? Is switch unique to Xantia? Can switch be repaired?

Thanks
DublinChris
PS pinion valve issues sorted.

[Xantidote]

I had problem with the lock part of my S1 Xantia ignition switch a couple of years ago, and replaced the lock/switch unit with one I bought from GSF. Do you have a local GSF, as alternative to main dealer?

When I fitted the replacement, there was an additional position on the key positions, though never a problem, and I never even notice this now. Probably giving the facility on some other car to run certain ancillaries? It does suggest to me that what GSF sold me probably suited at least one other vehicle.

Martin

[DublinChris]

Hi MARTIN
Thanks for reply yes I did try GSF locally but dont carry switch. In the meantime I believe I have located a secondhand unit from breakers complete with key - hoping to get to it tomorrow - fingers crosed.
DublinChris

[xmexclusive]

Hi DublinChris

If your secondhand switch unit is the same make as the original then it is possible to swap over the old key section onto the new wiring.
This is well worth doing if you want to maintain the existing key set for the car.
Seperation is usually just a single Torx screw on the underside of the ignition switch.

John

[Carsten S]

Can switch be repaired?

Hi Chris,
The switch is actually quite easy to repair. It takes ~½ hour.
There is a guide in Danish, maybe with help from google translate it should be possible to follow. (The pictures tell most of the story) http://www.citronik.dk/jforum/posts/list/1580.page" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If there is any question about the guide, then speak up, and I'll try to help you.

(Should I translate the guide?)

[DublinChris]

Hi DublinChris

If your secondhand switch unit is the same make as the original then it is possible to swap over the old key section onto the new wiring.
This is well worth doing if you want to maintain the existing key set for the car.
Seperation is usually just a single Torx screw on the underside of the ignition switch.

John

Thanks John will check this out - have replacement switch installed and use the key that came with switch for ignition and fob for remote operation of central locking but would like to combine.

[DublinChris]

Can switch be repaired?

Hi Chris,
The switch is actually quite easy to repair. It takes ~½ hour.
There is a guide in Danish, maybe with help from google translate it should be possible to follow. (The pictures tell most of the story) http://www.citronik.dk/jforum/posts/list/1580.page" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If there is any question about the guide, then speak up, and I'll try to help you.

(Should I translate the guide?)

Great will check this out as well but try John's suggestion first to try match things up

[xmexclusive]

Hi Chris

Now you have the new switch installed it does not need to come right back out to swap the lock.
If you remove the locking bolt and turn the key to release the switch then work the ignition switch until you can see the Torx screw.
There is enough slack in the wiring to do this without unplugging.
Double check the switches are the same make and design then separate and swap the lock bodies over.

John

[DublinChris]

Great!