New title for more issues :-)

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2011, 20:33

Steve,

Here's the circuits you need. Firstly the schematic, followed by the harness diagram and then the location diagram. The harness diagram shows the connectors very clearly and by reference to the schematic you can see what each pin does.

You'll see the two connectors are called IC05 and IC06. IC05 deals entirely with the engine and IC06 deals entirely with the suspension.

Injection Schematic

Injection Harnesses

Injection Locations

Activa Suspension Schematic

Activa Suspension Harnesses

Activa Suspension Locations

If you need any help understanding the diagrams, just shout...

Component ID codes (e.g. 7715 is the Hydractive ECU) can be found in the BoL but really they're quite obvious if you cross-reference with the location diagrams.

Hope that helps a bit...

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 03 Jul 2011, 22:19

Thats great Jim, much appreciated

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 03 Jul 2011, 22:25

I'd be more inclined to get those two plugs and sockets complete with around a foot of wiring on each from a scrapper and splice them in using the aforesaid insulated butts and then flooding the joints with silicone grease and covering the whole in heat-shrink.

Are mine likely to be any use to Stekelly?

I haven't got that far with the car yet, but when I do, you can have them for the taking.

Robert

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 03 Jul 2011, 22:35

robert_e_smart wrote:
I'd be more inclined to get those two plugs and sockets complete with around a foot of wiring on each from a scrapper and splice them in using the aforesaid insulated butts and then flooding the joints with silicone grease and covering the whole in heat-shrink.
Are mine likely to be any use to Stekelly?

I haven't got that far with the car yet, but when I do, you can have them for the taking.

Robert

That would be super Robert, cheers. Forgot about your one

I think its just the 2 plugs pictured that are needed. From what I can tell the 2 parts they plug in too are fine.

Actually, whil ei think of it. Has the engine and gearbox gone from it? Was haveign a chat with my cousin today and we are goign to have a look for an engine to strip and rebuild, for the knowledge. I'd like to get it runnign on the bench then. He is stumping up a few quid to buy one.

If yours is still there how much would you be lookign for for it?

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 03 Jul 2011, 22:58

PM Sent.

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:03

For my next project I am going to attempt to fit Activa calipers, disks and pads to my 1.8sx because I can get the from Robert while gettign other bits. Does anyone know how much else I need to change? Will I have to go as far as driveshafts aswell (I will have those) If so will the shafts be a straight swap? I assume I'll then need to use the corresponding Activa hib carriers too? (again, no problem)

Will the wishbones, droplinks and track rods line up right? (I'm getting new droplinks tomorrow hopefully. I went to take one off today and the nut is stuck on the last few threads. The allen key hoel in the front of it rounded on me when tryign to hold it, so I'm just goign to cut them off and replace them. Everythign is looking a bit rusty in there so I want to replace it anyway.

So basically the plan is to change everythign from the driveshafts out as far as the inside of the wheels

Hopefully it is a straight swap.

Appologies that its not an Activa question as such, but most parts inside the wheelarch will be Activa.

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:27

The issue is interesting! It depends whether the ML5T gearbox has the same distance between inside ends of the shafts as a BE3.

You will need for sure the Activa carriers, and if the driveshafts do not otherwise marry it may be that you have to cobble up some "Frankenshafts" (NB this is not the German word for stamp-licking) using suitable outer ends on your existing shafts.

Everything else will line up OK. Expect/allow for new flex hoses as they are all getting on a bit.

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:39

You could be lucky snd simply swap the caliper/pad carrier that mounts
on x2 big torx and then job done. But if there's a difference here it really
just isn't worth it. IF the spline on the hub matches the driveshaft is the
hub carrier the same, etc etc. it just goes on and on.

And for what? Why are bigger brakes necessary on a 1.8i?

Frankly I can't see why you'd go to the trouble - the 1.8 is a far lighter
set up and brakes every bit as good as any other Xantia I've driven bar
a v6; the brakes on these are astonishing but they need to be to reign
in the velocity and mass the v6 possesses.

davoxx · Unread post by **davoxx** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:40

it won't work, the gearbox are different.

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:48

andmcit wrote:You could be lucky snd simply swap the caliper/pad carrier that mounts
on x2 big torx and then job done. But if there's a difference here it really
just isn't worth it. IF the spline on the hub matches the driveshaft is the
hub carrier the same, etc etc. it just goes on and on.

And for what? Why are bigger brakes necessary on a 1.8i?

Frankly I can't see why you'd go to the trouble - the 1.8 is a far lighter
set up and brakes every bit as good as any other Xantia I've driven bar
a v6; the brakes on these are astonishing but they need to be to reign
in the velocity and mass the v6 possesses.

I have a big brake imbalance (40%) and its looking like the caliper on the passenger side is sticking,so my solution was to uprate the brakes , purely because I had access to the parts.

the other option is to source the right (proper, not the right hand one obviously

)caliper and change it.

davoxx · Unread post by **davoxx** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:50

perchance it is easier to get 1.8 callipers and use them?

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 08 Jul 2011, 00:53

davoxx wrote:perchance it is easier to get 1.8 callipers and use them?

twould be alright.

thing is, I'm getting an abs fault too, which seems to be down to either a sensor or maybe the ABS ring ont he driveshafts. The car was originally English and theres a fair bit of rust under there (all down around transmission related and suspension parts. All the changeable stuff. ). The teeth on it seems very rusted which is why I was thinkign of maybe trying to change the driveshafts too.

xmexclusive · Unread post by **xmexclusive** » 08 Jul 2011, 08:06

I have found that those plugs come in a large number of variations.
The pinning and wiring content seems to vary by Xantia model.
Then the actual construction also varies from being able to take to bits and reassemble as required through to fully encapsulated and no capable of alteration. Only know because I have been cutting a few of them out of scrap cars ready to make up good quality 30 pin Lexia leads.

John