Taking CitroJim's advice from the other thread and posting issues here. (I don't think I'm going to be able to get to the Citroen meeting in July, and my Activa, bought on ebay for £163, is very tatty paintwise. I'd be embarrassed to turn up!)
Anyhoo...
My Mk1 Activa has a rear that has been getting bouncier and bouncier, it feels like it just has almost no rear movement at all, and while the front rises and falls the rear does not appear to move.
It also has a leaking rear Activa ram but as CitroJim says I don't think this has anything to do with the ride. On smooth roads it still corners on rails.
See http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2870/imag0272r.jpg Activa ram.
I think the rear spheres are the likely cause, and if not they almost certainly need replacing anyway. It is just time and money that have stopped me doing them.
I have seen Activa spheres on ebay which say they fit Activas "1993-1995"
Mine is late 96. Would they fit?
Very bouncy Activa
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Citroenmad
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It is most likely spheres, there are 10 of them on the Activa, the car really does benefit from its spheres being spot on.
You ideally need all your rear ones checking for pressure and replacing where needed. It would also be worth checking to see if your Activas sports diodes are working correctly, if its stuck in sports mode then it will be much firmer than it should be.
However if the rear is not moving, if the ride height is in low or high them it will be very firm and bouncy. This is most likely a seizing height corrector or the dog bone clip has popped off.
Also, since the Activa didn't arrive until very late 1995 I would be a little dubious about those spheres.
You ideally need all your rear ones checking for pressure and replacing where needed. It would also be worth checking to see if your Activas sports diodes are working correctly, if its stuck in sports mode then it will be much firmer than it should be.
However if the rear is not moving, if the ride height is in low or high them it will be very firm and bouncy. This is most likely a seizing height corrector or the dog bone clip has popped off.
Also, since the Activa didn't arrive until very late 1995 I would be a little dubious about those spheres.
Chris
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Citroening
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Re: Very bouncy Activa
Bit O/T...would be good if you could, and don't worry that it's tatty paintwork - the fact is that it would be there! Mine's no show car really...zz9 wrote: (I don't think I'm going to be able to get to the Citroën meeting in July, and my Activa, bought on ebay for £163, is very tatty paintwise. I'd be embarrassed to turn up!)
Franklin
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CitroJim
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Yep, fundamentally it sounds like a seized rear height corrector. You can't do anything until the rear is properly going up and down both under the influence of the height lever and when sitting in the boot.. There are loads of threads on this forum that speasks wise words on how to deal with them. That has to be the first job.
Have a good read through the Activa Buyers Guide to fully check out the suspension.
Spheres for a normal Hydractive Xantia are fine on an Activa. I run Hydractive estate rear corners on mine.
The only two specials that you need made are the Activa accumulator and the Activa Balancing sphere. Pleiades can make those up for you from an anti-sink and accumulator sphere respectively.
Activas are critical of spheres and it pays to have access to a pressure tester so you can keep and eye on them and replace only those that need replacing.
That rear ram is not too bad yet but it's a perfect candidate for repair
I'm sure once you have gone through the suspension checks in the buyers guide more questions will follow. Fire away!!!
Have a good read through the Activa Buyers Guide to fully check out the suspension.
Spheres for a normal Hydractive Xantia are fine on an Activa. I run Hydractive estate rear corners on mine.
The only two specials that you need made are the Activa accumulator and the Activa Balancing sphere. Pleiades can make those up for you from an anti-sink and accumulator sphere respectively.
Activas are critical of spheres and it pays to have access to a pressure tester so you can keep and eye on them and replace only those that need replacing.
That rear ram is not too bad yet but it's a perfect candidate for repair
I'm sure once you have gone through the suspension checks in the buyers guide more questions will follow. Fire away!!!
Jim
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A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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zz9
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Thanks for that. I think I'll start by replacing the standard rear spheres and seeing what happens. Either way they'll need replacing sooner or later and if that's it then great.
At least I managed to fix the heater fan so the aircon works. That was about the only noticeable fault when I bought it but as I was gearing up for a major rewiring job I found it was a lose connection on the actual fan.
At least I managed to fix the heater fan so the aircon works. That was about the only noticeable fault when I bought it but as I was gearing up for a major rewiring job I found it was a lose connection on the actual fan.
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Xaccers
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Blimey I hadn't actually looked at the photo until now!
My goodness if the other spheres are that bad I'd say they're all originals and most likely need replacing!
Don't forget the soft ride comes from the hydractive spheres, and the hard (as in properly working but firmer than soft) ride is provided by the corners.
When you replace the rear spheres, don't forget to loosen them slightly with the car on high to hold the struts in place so they don't just spin, and good luck!
My goodness if the other spheres are that bad I'd say they're all originals and most likely need replacing!
Don't forget the soft ride comes from the hydractive spheres, and the hard (as in properly working but firmer than soft) ride is provided by the corners.
When you replace the rear spheres, don't forget to loosen them slightly with the car on high to hold the struts in place so they don't just spin, and good luck!
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CitroJim
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The external condition of a sphere is no indication of it's goodness or otherwise but if they look like that then they have been there for a while and could certainly do with being tested if nothing else...
Some Activa spheres are hard to get to, particularly the Activa Balancing sphere, and a good sphere tool will be needed. They also have to be loosened under pressure which makes the job more interesting (and messy!)
This thread on sphere changing is a good one to read, especially for the rears as they need a non-intuitive technique for their removal.
Some Activa spheres are hard to get to, particularly the Activa Balancing sphere, and a good sphere tool will be needed. They also have to be loosened under pressure which makes the job more interesting (and messy!)
This thread on sphere changing is a good one to read, especially for the rears as they need a non-intuitive technique for their removal.
Jim
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A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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zz9
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Jim
You say in the How To thread that the suspension must be on high when removing the old spheres to avoid damaging the cylinders. My rear suspension doesn't go up that far when on high, just a little bit higher than normal ride. Would it be better to support the car on axle stands and let the suspension fall by itself?
You say in the How To thread that the suspension must be on high when removing the old spheres to avoid damaging the cylinders. My rear suspension doesn't go up that far when on high, just a little bit higher than normal ride. Would it be better to support the car on axle stands and let the suspension fall by itself?
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DickieG
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Whilst your suspension should go higher, if it doesn't it shouldn't make any difference for removing rear sphere's as the purpose of raising the car on high is to lock the cylinder in position so that it doesn't twist as you undo the sphere so simply keep an eye on it to make sure it stays put, having the weight of the car on the suspension is all that's normally required, getting up higher simply gives you more room to manoeuvre.zz9 wrote:Jim
You say in the How To thread that the suspension must be on high when removing the old spheres to avoid damaging the cylinders. My rear suspension doesn't go up that far when on high, just a little bit higher than normal ride. Would it be better to support the car on axle stands and let the suspension fall by itself?
If you have the wheels hanging down without weight you will more than likely have the cylinders twist which will in turn twist the hydraulic pipe and snap it, then you'll have a whole pile of 'poo' to deal with!
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zz9
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stevenc75
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CitroJim
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Nasty. You mean to say it was a hydraulic Citroen and he cut what he thought was the brake pipes and instead went through suspension piping?zz9 wrote: I read of a case many years ago of someone who hated their neighbour and decided to cut their brake pipes one night. The postman found his body in the morning...
This is why we're always careful to state very clearly that before doing any work under a hydraulic Citroen it must be very firmly supported.
In the case of cracking off rear corners on high, I'll always have axle stands under the car but just clear so that all the weight is on the rear wheels but if the worst happens and it does fall the stands will catch the car as it comes down.
Xac will tell of a time when we were levelling is Activa and for that you need to be right under to adjust the roll linkages whilst the engine is running and the suspension is at normal height. The car was up on ramps and the clearance was quite adequate but even so, when I felt the front begin to dive whilst I was under and adjusting I made a very, very rapid exit. Xac says he never saw me move so fast in my life
Even for the most trivial of job I always ensure the car is very firmly on stands.
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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zz9
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