head gasket paranoia!

TomH · Unread post by **TomH** » 07 Apr 2004, 14:07

had the head gasket re-done on my ZX recently, due to faulty one being fitted 2 months ago. It has been skimmed and everything, and I didn't pay due to the faulty gasket. However, the engine sounds different, hence the paranoia! I can't describe sounds, but there is a definite new sound in there! sounds a bit like an old BMW engine or something at the top!
Haven't driven it more than a few miles so far as I'm worried, because I wasn't paying for the job it might not have been done to the best of standards!!
So is it normal to hear different things after a head skim/gasket/cam belt change?

P 2501 · Unread post by **P 2501** » 07 Apr 2004, 15:38

Yes, sometimes disturbing an engine like this can lead to differences in the sound.I have a friend that had a similar experience (diff. engine though) so maybe the engine had 'settled' and taking the head off slightly alters it? rather difficult to measure i'm afraid, so best thing to do might be to stick with it for a while or if you are concerned get the mechanic to have a look.

DLM · Unread post by **DLM** » 07 Apr 2004, 19:20

I've suffered that post-head-gasket paranioa too - it just doesn't seem right for a while. But surely if the people who did it wrong the first time have failed again then they'll just have to do it until they get it right (barring any over-imaginative diagnosis on their part).

tomsheppard · Unread post by **tomsheppard** » 07 Apr 2004, 19:36

If the cam followers were replaced in a different order, the engine might sound different. Measure the valve clearances to ensure that they are right, keeping an eye out for tight ones. Slightly slack ones are not a problem. Tight ones will sooner or later cause trouble.

TomH · Unread post by **TomH** » 07 Apr 2004, 20:27

Not really qualified to measure valve clearances... what do I do? get my ruler out? [;)]
It sounds the same at idle, just at higher revs it sounds less healthy than it used to!

Kowalski · Unread post by **Kowalski** » 07 Apr 2004, 21:12

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TomH</i>

It sounds the same at idle, just at higher revs it sounds less healthy than it used to!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Could the injectors not getting bled properly cause this sort of noise?

TomH · Unread post by **TomH** » 07 Apr 2004, 23:02

I knew my paranoia wasn't unfounded [V]
yup, it still overheats. Didn't drive so carefully this time... Still the same old problem. Temp guage rising and rising to the top but radiator cold. OIl steaming hot. Doesn't sound right as I say.
So now no air in the system, thermostat has been changed and now new gasket (which was faluty last time: distorted as a piston hit it)
Mechanic doesn't know what to do/check now. And nor do I. Anyone want to lok at my car? [xx(]
...or should I abandon ship and get rid?

TomH · Unread post by **TomH** » 11 Apr 2004, 23:06

this is really frustrating! [:(!]
could it be the water pump?

oilyspanner · Unread post by **oilyspanner** » 11 Apr 2004, 23:26

How about a water hose collapsing internally, that would give the symptoms you describe. Either the top hose or the bottom one
Stewart

paranoid · Unread post by **paranoid** » 11 Apr 2004, 23:27

Water pump impellors have been known to fall off causing a similar problem.

Stuart McB · Unread post by **Stuart McB** » 12 Apr 2004, 00:17

Can't say abut the Citroen water pump but this is exactley the same problem as a Vauxhall Astra diesel I once owned. All the above work done but still over heating, pump impellor and come away. No easy way to check apart from taking apart.
Saying that you could try a sort of heath robinson set up.Garden hose in to rad top hose, and let flow throught bottom hose so cold water is running through. If temp lowers slightly it could point to the pump. Sorry but it's the best I can think of at the moment.

Dave Burns · Unread post by **Dave Burns** » 12 Apr 2004, 01:31

Engine cold so thermostat is closed, remove and replace radiator cap to dissipate any remaining pressure or vacuum, start engine and remove the bleed cap on the degassing pipe (small pipe coming from stat housing behind fuel filter), if water comes from the degassing pipe bleed valve when the engine is revved (via the throttle lever on the injection pump), then the pump is working ok, the water flow will increase significantly as the engine speed increases giving positive confirmation of a good pump.
Screw the cap back on while water is issuing from the open valve, do not stop the engine and screw it back on, that will allow water to run back and draw air in.
Dave

neilsxm · Unread post by **neilsxm** » 12 Apr 2004, 03:39

hi tom
look just calm down lets take thing slowly
engine overheating
right
when engine is cold take off the expansion bottle top start the engine and let it get hot are there bubbles coming out?
if there is then the block ,head,head gasket has failed
if not then the problem lies in the water system
i.e blocked rad,incorrectly fitted thermostat(wrong way round)
water pump damaged, colasped pipes,air trapped etc
funny noises
i suspect the diesel timing has altered slightly when they have removed the belt to change the head gasket
where are you in the country
could come and have a look if your not miles away
---hth---
--neil--

edd001 · Unread post by **edd001** » 12 Apr 2004, 06:42

where do you live

RandR · Unread post by **RandR** » 12 Apr 2004, 14:20

if the heater doesnt get warm when the engine does then get your pet mech to check the water pump impeller (original plastic replacement metal)
I did one last week after a day of head scratching
RR