Xantia timeing belt difficulty?

Stekelly · Unread post by **Stekelly** » 01 May 2011, 23:09

Has anyone done their own timeign belt on a 1.8 16v and is it easy or difficult for a first timer?

I normally tackle any job myself that doesnt involve any tools or equipment I dont have access to like a ramp so decided when I started putting the Xantia back on the road that seeing as how money is very tight at the minute I'd try save myself some and do the timeing belt and waterpump myself. I went and got myself the parts but then I chickened out because I didnt want to end up wrecking it.

Is there anything special about the model that requires anything particularly difficult?Is it a runner a s a diy job and if so has anyone any tips?

Cheers.

handyman · Unread post by **handyman** » 02 May 2011, 05:58

If you are familiar with changing timing belts then belt changing is not difficult on this engine, just awkward due to lack of space. Providing you have a set of lock-up pins it is straight forward, except for the belt fitting as it can be extremely tight to get on. I have a technique to fit them that works everytime.

By the way, forget the Book of Lies, as that will be no help to you.

It is also worth changing the alternator drive belt at the same time.

Handyman

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 02 May 2011, 11:34

Watch the bottom pulley as the hole in it to time has a corresponding cutout in the crankcase.

Its not unknown for the pulley to spin / move slightly, if this happens you'll not find TDC. The usual 'fix' is to borrow a pulley or replace it.

I used to have a new one just for this purpose (time it and put the old one back) as many people would not pay for a new one.

red_dwarfers · Unread post by **red_dwarfers** » 02 May 2011, 11:35

On the timing pins front, if its anything like the 1.9 and 2.1 TDs in my cars then the pin kit will consist of two or three M8 bolts and a 1m+ steel bar bent in two places in a certain way for the flywheel locking pin.

The extra length comes in really handy as once you've found the flywheel locking hole under the starter motor and part slipped it in. You can keep the pressure on the end of the bar with your foot/hand and turn the crankshaft slowly and feel it slip right in and lock up.
If the bar is bent right it will be pressed up against a bit of metal under the body of the car (technical description) and it won't fall out.

Just take your time, check everything twice and make sure you've got some thread lock and a breaker bar.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 02 May 2011, 12:33

Kev, the XU petrol ones since the late 90's (I think) don't have the diesel flywheel aperture, they have a hole in the crank pulley and a kind of U shaped casting on the block that it fits into. I've made it sound cruder that it is, but its quite simple.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 02 May 2011, 12:39

Andy if the Block is cast iron and xu it will have the flywheel locking hole and the u shaped locator built into the crank oil seal housing, are later one alloy? they may well be different.
The cast blocks are the same for derv and petrol, its just the innards are different.

D

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 02 May 2011, 12:47

I'm not sure about that Dean, I'm basing it on the early 406's 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v units as these all had the 'hole in pulley' method. The Xantia should be the same, I'd be surprised if not but stranger things have happened I suppose.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 02 May 2011, 19:04

I CAN Confirm that 2.1 TD lumps DO have a timing hole in the block..

On the XM! By the way.

They DO also have the Timing cutouts on the Crank pully side and the U shape cut out in the crankcase...too

DO NOT on 2.1's DO NOT use this to time the 2.1 XUD - you MUST USE the timing hole in the block and flywheel.

I did a 2.1 and used the crank pully timing holes ah la 2.oi Turbo and it WAS out if time untill I relasied theres a timing hole in the block. When I timed that it showed clearly that the pully end timing marks are NOT correct.

Paul

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 02 May 2011, 20:35

But the OP is asking about a 1.8 16v which would be a petrol unit.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 02 May 2011, 20:44

Yes I realise that, but the 2.1 XUD came into conversation above...

Paul

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 02 May 2011, 20:57

citroenxm wrote:Yes I realise that, but the 2.1 XUD came into conversation above...

Paul

Apologies

, I missed that bit somehow.

Kman · Unread post by **Kman** » 02 May 2011, 22:11

If you have some experience this shouldn't be too hard, there are however two rather critical points to mention (from memory after a similar job on '96 406):

1. Do not trust the timing hole in the crank pulley unless the pulley is made from one single piece of metal as on older XU engines. "New" pulleys are made of two separate metal pieces bonded together by rubber, and the outer piece tends to rotate in relation to the inner.

2. As far as I can remember, due to the slight freedom of rotation in the camshaft pulleys and the automatic tensioner, it's possible to get the belt on one tooth out. It is therefore important to verify correct timing by rotating the engine a couple of revs, the timing holes should then line up perfectly if the belt is installed rigth.

Regards

Kristian