Xantia kepad flashes red continuously

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colzak
Posts: 12
Joined: 06 Apr 2004, 12:56

Xantia kepad flashes red continuously

Unread post by colzak »

My Xantia keypad is flashing red even with the ignition on.Can anyone help?(Car is lightfront salvage, but code was supplied).
DJGarry
Posts: 12
Joined: 28 Mar 2004, 17:23

Unread post by DJGarry »

Does anything different happen when you punch in the code?
Is the keypad getting a switched 12V signal from the steering column?
colzak
Posts: 12
Joined: 06 Apr 2004, 12:56

Unread post by colzak »

The keypad will flash/blink red regardles of the ignitionkey position and there are no beeps when the keypad is pressed.
I have since checked pin 13 on the multiblock connector into the keypad to find that this pin only supplies ,2,volt when the ignition is turned on. I beleive this should be 12 volts as outlined in 'Wheelers', comments on immobeliser keypad problem solving.
Pins 1,& 15 have 12v and earth,respectively.
This is as far as Ive got at the moment.
As I havn,t a clue as to how the immobilser ignition feed is fed to the keypad Im open to any suggestions on how to proceed next.
shaunthesheep
Posts: 364
Joined: 16 Jul 2002, 14:42

Unread post by shaunthesheep »

does the car start ok?, or does the immobilser not work at all??
wheeler
Posts: 7894
Joined: 21 Sep 2002, 19:07
x 1044

Unread post by wheeler »

ok the missing ign feed seems to be the problem,asumming there has been no change to the pin configuration then pin 13 at the keypad should be an ign 12v feed being fed via fuse 2 of the interior fusebox,double check that there is a code printed on the wire that starts with the letter C (possible code C02),if it has this code then switch the ignition on & temporarily feed pin 13 with 12v with the keypad plugged in & see if it lets you enter the code then we can take the problem from there.
colzak
Posts: 12
Joined: 06 Apr 2004, 12:56

Unread post by colzak »

Im presently at work having just read the replies,(Thanks for the input lads).
REF:does the car start?,(Shaunthesheep).
The car is totally immobilised but won't unimmobilise via the keypad.
REF:temporary 12V feed to pin 13,(Wheeler)
In an attempt to understand whats going on:-
1. Should I get continuity between Fuse 2 and pin 13 with the ignition off or is fuse 2 a relay feed which switches pin 13 to live?
2. Will the code number that starts with the letter 'c' be behind fuse 2 or on the keypad multiblock?
3. I will attempt the live feed by jumping from pin 1,would that be ok?
colzak
Posts: 12
Joined: 06 Apr 2004, 12:56

Unread post by colzak »

Thanks Wheeler, Ive took out what I believed to be fuse 2,(I don't have handbook)and put that across a multimeter.......Yes..it was goosed.!
Having put in a replacement 5amp fuse the keypad works as it should.Cant believe it was that simple.
wheeler
Posts: 7894
Joined: 21 Sep 2002, 19:07
x 1044

Unread post by wheeler »

glad to hear you sorted it,just to answer the questions-
1.you should get continuity between F2 & pin 13 with ign on or off.
2.the wire code is printed all the way along the wire every couple of inches.
3.that would have been ok,any live would have done the job.
shaunthesheep
Posts: 364
Joined: 16 Jul 2002, 14:42

Unread post by shaunthesheep »

check out this link, as i had a smilar problem with mine. http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... mmobiliser
colzak
Posts: 12
Joined: 06 Apr 2004, 12:56

Unread post by colzak »

Thanks again for the info & time
I read most if not all of the immobiliser forums on this site prior to posting my own queary but the majority seemed to focus on a solid red and green light on the keypad. The flashing red deceptively made me think that the keypad was powered up correctly and that the fault would ultimately stem from the cars previous accident.
The car had stood in a salvage yard for three months with its bonnet deformed, that could of let rain howl readily round the engine bay.
Well thats one problem out of the way, I,m now,(when I get home)in the process of replacing the front 'slam panal',lights,bumper. (Bonnet and radiator already on). The Bitron fan control box was a mess but I soldered back what I could see to be snapped last night. Put in the code,,,yeahhh,,,,,,car started on the button and both fans kicked in at low speed around 80 degrees.
The plastic is goosed so Im on the lookout for a replacement Bitron fan control box, also a Condensor matrix for the aircon.