My 52 plate picasso 1600 petrol 8 valve is having problems with the heating fan. The blower is not working unless set on number 4.
I have checked the fuses, the resistor and the harness and all appear in working order. I cannot locate the source of the problem.
Could it be a problem with the ignition barrel??
Any help would be greatly approciated as I don't want to take it to a garage without knowing what the problem is
Many Thanks
blower not working
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lewisd1
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 01 Jan 2011, 21:31
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Paul-R
- Moderating Team
- Posts: 8967
- Joined: 07 May 2009, 16:24
- x 1860
Does the car have aircon? I don't think it will have resistors as such to control speeds if it has. My C5 certainly doesn't.
Our Xsara has aircon and last September the blower suddenly came on full blast. Or almost full blast, it woiuld actually go up one more notch if set max.
Thinking it was a problem similar to the Xantia I pulled the centre console out and sacrificed some skin to extract the control unit from the lower dash. I opened it up but found it was not at all like a Xantias; indeed I couldn't see anything wrong.
I put it all back intending next to pull out the control pack from the blower unit but, after pulling out the glovebox, I couldn't find it.
This had taken place over several weekends and by then the dark and wet nights had set in - so it got left alone.
And then suddenly, about a month ago, it healed itself! And so far it hasn't gone wrong since.
In retrospect I should have plugged the Lexia in as this can take control of the blowers and check that the speeds are working properly. But still, all's well that ends well!
Our Xsara has aircon and last September the blower suddenly came on full blast. Or almost full blast, it woiuld actually go up one more notch if set max.
Thinking it was a problem similar to the Xantia I pulled the centre console out and sacrificed some skin to extract the control unit from the lower dash. I opened it up but found it was not at all like a Xantias; indeed I couldn't see anything wrong.
I put it all back intending next to pull out the control pack from the blower unit but, after pulling out the glovebox, I couldn't find it.
This had taken place over several weekends and by then the dark and wet nights had set in - so it got left alone.
And then suddenly, about a month ago, it healed itself! And so far it hasn't gone wrong since.
In retrospect I should have plugged the Lexia in as this can take control of the blowers and check that the speeds are working properly. But still, all's well that ends well!
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
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deuchebleu
- Posts: 61
- Joined: 01 Jan 2011, 20:41
- x 20
The fact that you say you have 4 positions on the fan switch and that it only works on number 4 implies that you have manual heating not automatic. The fan resistor module must be being supplied with 12V as the 4th speed is a direct connection. The other 3 speeds are all fed through a common thermal fuse and a different value wire wound resistor. The thermal fuse has failed. The resistor module is slightly different to that described by Cloggz, being a different shape, but is essentially the same. To remove it:-
Remove the trim above the pedals.
Put the heater on recirc; this opens the recirc input.
Reach in above and to the left of the clutch pedal and put your hand in through the recirc input to feel a metal skeletal cube inside the fan duct.
Twist it slightly anticlockwise, it's a bayonet fixing, and pull it into the duct.
There is enough slack on the cable to pull the connector into the duct where you can disconnect it. You have to press the detents to release it and it can be tricky with one hand but not impossible.
Do a continuity test on it and I'm sure you will find the fuse has gone.
You can either replace the unit; about 30GBP from Citroen IIRC, or if your soldering skills are up to it, change the fuse.
The fuse looks exactly like in Clogzz's photo.
Mine was rated at 144 degC but I replaced it with a slightly uprated one at 152 degC, RA17T from Maplin at 69p.
The original is crimped in but you can solder in the replacement.
Snip the original out leaving the crimped leads then twist the leads with the replacement leads making a good mechanical joint.
Then a quick dab with the soldering iron on each twisted joint.
You can always use some croc clips as a heat shunt if you don't have a temp controlled soldering iron. Just don't leave the iron on for more than a second or two and let it cool before doing the other end.
It may sound complicated but you can have it in and out in 5 mins
John
Remove the trim above the pedals.
Put the heater on recirc; this opens the recirc input.
Reach in above and to the left of the clutch pedal and put your hand in through the recirc input to feel a metal skeletal cube inside the fan duct.
Twist it slightly anticlockwise, it's a bayonet fixing, and pull it into the duct.
There is enough slack on the cable to pull the connector into the duct where you can disconnect it. You have to press the detents to release it and it can be tricky with one hand but not impossible.
Do a continuity test on it and I'm sure you will find the fuse has gone.
You can either replace the unit; about 30GBP from Citroen IIRC, or if your soldering skills are up to it, change the fuse.
The fuse looks exactly like in Clogzz's photo.
Mine was rated at 144 degC but I replaced it with a slightly uprated one at 152 degC, RA17T from Maplin at 69p.
The original is crimped in but you can solder in the replacement.
Snip the original out leaving the crimped leads then twist the leads with the replacement leads making a good mechanical joint.
Then a quick dab with the soldering iron on each twisted joint.
You can always use some croc clips as a heat shunt if you don't have a temp controlled soldering iron. Just don't leave the iron on for more than a second or two and let it cool before doing the other end.
It may sound complicated but you can have it in and out in 5 mins
John