Have been setting about upgrading the sound system in my ZX. I first upgraded the headunit to a Kenwood KDC-7090R, using the standard speakers, and was suprised just how much a decent headunit can improve the sound quality.
But that soon wore off so I have now upgraded the fronts to Kenwood 130mm 170W conponents, and the rear to Kenny's 130mm 120W coaxials.
I have bought in a Kenny PS-501 amp and have on order a 700W Kenny sub.
However, I'm not sure how to go about making up a boot install - false floors etc, so any advice would be apreciated also if you've done the same a pic of your boot install would help.
Thanks
Ross
Sound System Banger!
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
700Watts ??
- off a 12V system ??
That's at least the double of the crank power from your starter motor [8)]
- meaning the power feed cables should be the double area of you starter motor cables - to make any sense [:0]
If you miss your luck - your engine would stall shortly after turning up your stereo - because of lack of power to the ignition [8)]
- and you don't need any music flashing lights - your headlamps would follow the bass [B)]
- off a 12V system ??
That's at least the double of the crank power from your starter motor [8)]
- meaning the power feed cables should be the double area of you starter motor cables - to make any sense [:0]
If you miss your luck - your engine would stall shortly after turning up your stereo - because of lack of power to the ignition [8)]
- and you don't need any music flashing lights - your headlamps would follow the bass [B)]
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rossnunn
- Posts: 1254
- Joined: 09 Aug 2003, 03:00
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ZEGA
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 08 Mar 2004, 07:00
It's nowhere near real 700W (it can be verified with an ampmeter)...
It is more like 200Wrms total, but real values listening music are very variabile (transient) so i guess 30AMP contitious with loudest setting (in clipping)...
And cranking is more like 3000W for XM (when starter is out, for smaller car i.e. 1.2L benz in idle at max. speed it draws 50amps (i measured it)...
And kenwood sucks anyway there is so much better stuff around...
ZEGA
It is more like 200Wrms total, but real values listening music are very variabile (transient) so i guess 30AMP contitious with loudest setting (in clipping)...
And cranking is more like 3000W for XM (when starter is out, for smaller car i.e. 1.2L benz in idle at max. speed it draws 50amps (i measured it)...
And kenwood sucks anyway there is so much better stuff around...
ZEGA
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uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- x 3
Ross opined: <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">and the rear to Kenny's 130mm 120W coaxials.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I hope Kenny didn't mind you fiddling with his coaxials. Did you kill him afterwards? [:o)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I hope Kenny didn't mind you fiddling with his coaxials. Did you kill him afterwards? [:o)]
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vanny
- Posts: 767
- Joined: 16 May 2002, 21:08
- x 1
what rating is the amp for the sub? This will be the critical factor!
The 700w will be the random imaginery figure audio companies use that means absolutely nothing! The problem is that because a few companies started making up imaginery numbers, everyone had to follow!
So long as you install everything in a defensive manner (low current drain with total 'off' mode) then you shouldnt manage to drain your battery with the equiptment listed.
Its ill advised to have TWO alternators (as seems to be your aim?), it creates a whole host of problems and will eat through batteries! Go get a decent battery and the diesel alternator (80amp). If your really worried about the battery going flat (which i cant see it doing), then get a second battery and get a split charge device. The alternator will keep the primary battery charged as a priority, then keep the accessorie battery charged. You then wire the audio to the accessorie battery (made easier by having it installed in your boot!), when the accessorie battery goes flat, the music goes off and you still have your primary battery. If you have a lot of bass going through the system then there's a good chance you will have the famous Ford 'disco' lighting effect. By having the audio run from a second battery then in theory you shouldnt get this problem!
And if your gonna buy cable, spend the money and get decent stuff, it makes a MASSIVE difference!
The 700w will be the random imaginery figure audio companies use that means absolutely nothing! The problem is that because a few companies started making up imaginery numbers, everyone had to follow!
So long as you install everything in a defensive manner (low current drain with total 'off' mode) then you shouldnt manage to drain your battery with the equiptment listed.
Its ill advised to have TWO alternators (as seems to be your aim?), it creates a whole host of problems and will eat through batteries! Go get a decent battery and the diesel alternator (80amp). If your really worried about the battery going flat (which i cant see it doing), then get a second battery and get a split charge device. The alternator will keep the primary battery charged as a priority, then keep the accessorie battery charged. You then wire the audio to the accessorie battery (made easier by having it installed in your boot!), when the accessorie battery goes flat, the music goes off and you still have your primary battery. If you have a lot of bass going through the system then there's a good chance you will have the famous Ford 'disco' lighting effect. By having the audio run from a second battery then in theory you shouldnt get this problem!
And if your gonna buy cable, spend the money and get decent stuff, it makes a MASSIVE difference!
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goose
- Posts: 95
- Joined: 02 Oct 2003, 23:53
i run some really thick power cable on mine i think its 4 gauge
aslong as u run the same gauge earth cable u shud have no problem.
i had x2 12"pioneer vccs 600watt subs and a 10"vccs pioneer 500 watt sub powered by x2 boscmann 600watt amps a pair of 6x9's and a 1.0 farrat power cap(which helps alot)that was in my old 1.4 reflex and i never got any lights dimming or nothing!!
i now run the x2 12"pioneer subs (as above) a 600watt boshmann amp a lanzar opti drive 100.2 amp 2 sets of 3 way spaekers in the doors and a set of mids and tweets and still no lack off power so if u have no problems once installed sorted!!!
as for the install its a piece of p**s just use paper or cardboard as a template as its easier to bend and cut etc then use 10mm thich (is best) mdf as the false floor and sides and back board then use spray adehsive to stich some nice acoustic carpet to the wood how u join the boards to the car is ur choice i used screws and put little caps over them to disguise them but if u donrt want to drill holes in your boot then you will have to find another way.
aslong as u run the same gauge earth cable u shud have no problem.
i had x2 12"pioneer vccs 600watt subs and a 10"vccs pioneer 500 watt sub powered by x2 boscmann 600watt amps a pair of 6x9's and a 1.0 farrat power cap(which helps alot)that was in my old 1.4 reflex and i never got any lights dimming or nothing!!
i now run the x2 12"pioneer subs (as above) a 600watt boshmann amp a lanzar opti drive 100.2 amp 2 sets of 3 way spaekers in the doors and a set of mids and tweets and still no lack off power so if u have no problems once installed sorted!!!
as for the install its a piece of p**s just use paper or cardboard as a template as its easier to bend and cut etc then use 10mm thich (is best) mdf as the false floor and sides and back board then use spray adehsive to stich some nice acoustic carpet to the wood how u join the boards to the car is ur choice i used screws and put little caps over them to disguise them but if u donrt want to drill holes in your boot then you will have to find another way.
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rossnunn
- Posts: 1254
- Joined: 09 Aug 2003, 03:00
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">And kenwood sucks anyway there is so much better stuff around...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thats your option and fair enough. The only real reason for going for Kenwood is service. The headunit developed a fault about two months out of warranty, so I rang them and they couldn't do enough to help. That same afternoon a couirer appered to pick it up and it was shipped straight back to Kenwood HQ (i read the transport label) and rather that repair the unit they replaced the whole shabang - no messing and at nill cost to me (other than the phone call).
I know just how much rubbish is banded about in the world of 'ICE' about sizes and quality of this and that but lets face it, stick it in a motor, and are you really going to hear the differance? And even if you could just make out the breathing of the drummer six rows back - at what volume? and for how long are you goning to stand it?
The only differance I've seen is using the correct sized cable's and a correcly balanced system.
YES there is better stuff and YES its six times the cost of the gear I've bought and NO it doesn't sound any different.
Thats your option and fair enough. The only real reason for going for Kenwood is service. The headunit developed a fault about two months out of warranty, so I rang them and they couldn't do enough to help. That same afternoon a couirer appered to pick it up and it was shipped straight back to Kenwood HQ (i read the transport label) and rather that repair the unit they replaced the whole shabang - no messing and at nill cost to me (other than the phone call).
I know just how much rubbish is banded about in the world of 'ICE' about sizes and quality of this and that but lets face it, stick it in a motor, and are you really going to hear the differance? And even if you could just make out the breathing of the drummer six rows back - at what volume? and for how long are you goning to stand it?
The only differance I've seen is using the correct sized cable's and a correcly balanced system.
YES there is better stuff and YES its six times the cost of the gear I've bought and NO it doesn't sound any different.
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tomsheppard
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- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- x 1
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Paulxmski
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uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- x 3
Tom a ecrit <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Fine, I'll learn sign language and in twenty years time, I'll be able to talk to you. By then, you will remember music.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Tom, you will have to, unless you wear earplugs when you go near Ross's car! [;)]
I can never get my head around the fact that people spend the value of the car on audio equipment that, after all, is used in a metal box to reproduce a range of frequencies from 20 - 500Hz, with a response curve that looks like the descent of the Matterhorn! And then proceed to annoy everyone within earshot with it [:(]
Tom, you will have to, unless you wear earplugs when you go near Ross's car! [;)]
I can never get my head around the fact that people spend the value of the car on audio equipment that, after all, is used in a metal box to reproduce a range of frequencies from 20 - 500Hz, with a response curve that looks like the descent of the Matterhorn! And then proceed to annoy everyone within earshot with it [:(]