Top Up engine oil!

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 10 Dec 2010, 19:04

First things first

:Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for how you use this information.

I would try engine/motor flush and see if the oil consumption decreases.
*) Always change oil filter after engine flush.
*) Don't drive the car but give the treatment while the engine is idling.
*) Read instructions carefully on the product.

There are several brands on the market. Forte (FORTE ADVANCED FORMULA ENGINE MOTOR FLUSH)
is the best and the most expensive. In some countries it's regarded as a professional garage use only

but you can buy it from ebay (also much cheaper price).
There are other brands which are cheaper like Liqui Moly, STP, CRC, Valvoline and etc.
I hope this helps.

PS: Oil consumption in mine is around ~0.25l (max 0.5l) for 10k km.

===
Edit: The real solution is to replace the seals I guess, for that engine top cover will be removed and it is not a "big" job like head gasket change.

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 10 Dec 2010, 21:18

the car is 180K old, i haven't noticed any blue smoke or oil smell or something like that and performance wise the car is in a good shape nothing wrong and it just passed inspection right when i bought it 3 months ago, i will have to double check on leaks again i guess..

Clogzz · Unread post by **Clogzz** » 11 Dec 2010, 13:10

My petrol Xantia had an oil leak where the dipstick tube goes into the sump.
It didn’t leak when the car was parked, only when the engine was running.
There was a trail of oil on the front of the engine, with no way to see where it came from because the starter motor and manifold are in front of the dipstick tube.

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 11 Dec 2010, 15:06

Thank you very much i will have to check for this as well once it stops snowing..

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 20 Dec 2010, 19:43

well it's leaking from the crank shaft area and i have been quoted 700€ to fix it

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 20 Dec 2010, 19:57

700 € is absolutely too much! It is a time consuming job 6-7 hours probably and the cost of the part (oil seal) is around 15 €.
This is the part they will change ( pic from mine):

Job: Gearbox down, clutch and flywheel to be removed.
- better change also gearbox oil (2 l Total 75W80)

Reason for the the leak is most probably the cold weather and frozen oil breather hoses which
developed pressure in the oil circulation.

Future tips:
- Use under engine shield if possible
- Cover in front of the radiator which would prevent cold air attack on the engine oil breather hoses.

***
Edit: pic and price from eBay

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 20 Dec 2010, 20:04

Thanks Vega for the reply, guess i should take it somewhere else as i can't do it myself!

HDI · Unread post by **HDI** » 20 Dec 2010, 22:13

Get a few quotes for the work, some garages deliberately quote high on jobs they don't really want to do.
Having said that, it would have to be leaking MASSIVELY to use up the amount of oil you describe !! Are there big puddles of oil on the ground where the car is parked ?
Also, put the car on it's highest suspension setting and look at the underside of car in about the centre from the engine to the back. To leak that much oil I would expect to see a long trail of oil on the underside, and alot underneath where the engine joins the gearbox.

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 20 Dec 2010, 22:24

HDI wrote:To leak that much oil I would expect to see a long trail of oil on the underside, and alot underneath where the engine joins the gearbox.

that's exactly it, first i thought it's transmission fluid leaking and thought i fixed it by changing it and put washer and stuff but i was wrong.

VertVega · Unread post by **VertVega** » 20 Dec 2010, 22:43

HDI wrote:Get a few quotes for the work, some garages deliberately quote high on jobs they don't really want to do...

I agree with HDI! Lots of work, with minimum parts cost

Ref here is something that you can do if the weather conditions are suitable.
Clean those "breather pipes seen in the pic.
I clean them before winter season with brake cleaner.
You can use normal hose clamps for securing.

I have marked the hoses with some color and marked also the crank shaft oil seal location.
Number 6 is the electric heater for the pipe, I guess you have also one or two of them

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 21 Dec 2010, 13:01

Thanks VV diffidently will do that when i get a chance, would oil additives like oil ATP oil sealer or something else help? i can imagine it's not permanent fix but would it reduce the leak a bit?

HDI · Unread post by **HDI** » 21 Dec 2010, 13:14

I've tried that in the past with some success, worth a go.

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 21 Dec 2010, 13:57

HDI wrote:I've tried that in the past with some success, worth a go.

sounds great, any idea about valvoline stop leak, forte conditioner as well?

HDI · Unread post by **HDI** » 21 Dec 2010, 14:37

Can't recall the exact product I used, it was possibly Valvoline.

I'm not an advocate of oil additives for 'helping' oil though. Modern engine oils have very complex chemistry and perform amazingly well, chucking in some random additive with highly suspect claims is likely to do more harm than good.

Ref · Unread post by **Ref** » 21 Dec 2010, 19:41

HDI wrote:Can't recall the exact product I used, it was possibly Valvoline.

I'm not an advocate of oil additives for 'helping' oil though. Modern engine oils have very complex chemistry and perform amazingly well, chucking in some random additive with highly suspect claims is likely to do more harm than good.

I'm sure not all of them work, gonna go tomorrow and see what do they stock in here, thanks.