Help! My driver's side headlight is really dim. I assumed it needs changing, so I bought the bulb, got a Haynes from the library, and thought "that sounds easy enough". How wrong can you be? I can't even get my hand in to remove the headlight casing. Without taking it to the garage (last resort) or only driving in the day time with no rain, what can I do? I've only ever done the basics, ie. tyre pressure, water, oil, windscreen wash but figure it's time to learn more! Please go gently with me. Thanks in advance.
Xantia 97 'P' 1.9LX TD
Dim headlight on a xantia
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
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davek-uk
- Posts: 447
- Joined: 29 Sep 2003, 21:01
Agreed it is a real bugger! I couldn't believe it myself when some months after purchase I had to visit that area...
To get at mine (and I don't have huge hands) I had to unclip & remove the black plastic ECU cover for better access. On my estate there is a water pipe (radiator to expansion tank) and a two way wire that run above the headlamp unit. I undid the connection in the wire to push it aside so that I could push the water pipe aside. This gives better access again.
The headlamp unit has a backing plate that unclips on the outside to swing open. On the inside, two prongs fit inside loops to form a hinge effect. When open (as far as it will go), there is just enough room to pull the backing plate towards the wing (i.e. to the left as you work) to release the prongs from the loops and free the backing plate. The backing plate then has to be worked out from where it rests to give you room to work.
It is bloody fiddly, poorly designed and a royal pain in the arse. Surely, when they added the ECU and housing they could have made it an inch shorter and left more room. Does no one in the world have any sense left?
To get at mine (and I don't have huge hands) I had to unclip & remove the black plastic ECU cover for better access. On my estate there is a water pipe (radiator to expansion tank) and a two way wire that run above the headlamp unit. I undid the connection in the wire to push it aside so that I could push the water pipe aside. This gives better access again.
The headlamp unit has a backing plate that unclips on the outside to swing open. On the inside, two prongs fit inside loops to form a hinge effect. When open (as far as it will go), there is just enough room to pull the backing plate towards the wing (i.e. to the left as you work) to release the prongs from the loops and free the backing plate. The backing plate then has to be worked out from where it rests to give you room to work.
It is bloody fiddly, poorly designed and a royal pain in the arse. Surely, when they added the ECU and housing they could have made it an inch shorter and left more room. Does no one in the world have any sense left?
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Kowalski
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: 15 Oct 2003, 17:41
I managed to replace both dipped beam bulbs without dismantling anything, all I did was move the cable and header overflow pipe out of the way. It was still a bit of a tight job with those two removed, the fact that it was dark at the time didn't help matters much either.
I'm told on the post-facelift Xantias its an even more difficult job.
I'm told on the post-facelift Xantias its an even more difficult job.
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PeterMann
- Posts: 151
- Joined: 02 Dec 2003, 08:10
Dim Headlight suggests unclean earth connection (there is a bunch behind and under the battery).
I sort out dodgey earth by backing off the bolt (10mm AF) securing the cable to the body a few turns, run a few drops of gearbox oil onto the threads and tighten up.
In my opinion, the best way to change headlight globes is to remove the headlight. Accessing the lower retaining bolt (10mm AF) on the headlight is done by removing the plastic strip that runs between the bumper and headlight. The outermost Torx screw on the plastic strip requires popping out the turning indicator (just push down on the catch, and it slides forward). The black plastic buttons on top of the strip (either side of the bonnet catch) have centres that pull up and out, and the whole strip assembly can then be removed. Once off, you have the headlights at your mercy.
I fitted 100 Watt globes to the high beam, and Bosch mini-relays to take power from the battery to hi & low beam via short runs of 55 Ampere Hifi speaker wire. Headlights went from dull and ordinary to very good for only A$35 and an afternoon of fiddling. If you want assistance on how to do unto the headlights what Citroen ought have done in the factory, email me at [email protected]
I sort out dodgey earth by backing off the bolt (10mm AF) securing the cable to the body a few turns, run a few drops of gearbox oil onto the threads and tighten up.
In my opinion, the best way to change headlight globes is to remove the headlight. Accessing the lower retaining bolt (10mm AF) on the headlight is done by removing the plastic strip that runs between the bumper and headlight. The outermost Torx screw on the plastic strip requires popping out the turning indicator (just push down on the catch, and it slides forward). The black plastic buttons on top of the strip (either side of the bonnet catch) have centres that pull up and out, and the whole strip assembly can then be removed. Once off, you have the headlights at your mercy.
I fitted 100 Watt globes to the high beam, and Bosch mini-relays to take power from the battery to hi & low beam via short runs of 55 Ampere Hifi speaker wire. Headlights went from dull and ordinary to very good for only A$35 and an afternoon of fiddling. If you want assistance on how to do unto the headlights what Citroen ought have done in the factory, email me at [email protected]